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So on buying a digital meter.

What to look for and why. Features such as DIODE test, are extremely important. A built in battery using either AA at six volt or a 9 Volt battery is preferable, the higher the battery voltage the better, diode test is impossible on the one circuit of the relay box because it has two diodes in series and a 300 to 500 ohm coil. You need at least 9 volts to test this.

Being able to measure both AC and DC Volts and DC amps, on DC amps 2000 milliamp or 2 amp, is the minimum, you should have a 3rd terminal labeled A for amps, this meter should have fusing in it, out of habit if measuring current, before putting the meter away, put the lead from A into the socket for measuring ohms and volts-a good habit to get into.

Manual Range auto range

Things to look for, a auto AC / DC selection may work but having a VAC and a VDC is superior , it may never be used by the average joe, but selecting VAC and connecting to a DC circuit, that includes your motorcycle battery, will show what we call ripple or the AC component of your charging system, that includes voltage spikes that someone posted their regulator at times displayed 15.1 VDC, I wonder what the actual peak voltage was.
Having the option of selecting a range manually, again you may not see this, but consider you are looking for a peak value and your meter may be set to auto millivolts, by the time you have started, and the processor has determined you need 00.0 VDC instead of 0.00VDC it is lost. Secondly, many meters are what is called 3.5 digits, in auto range, it may be difficult to find what is wrong, nothing worse than having a sketchy meter. I can tell you, you can get a meter almost equivalent to my now obsolete Fluke 189 for about $60

Below is a screen shot of my meter being used to load test my Kawasaki Versys battery. Note the hall effect amp clamp that is rated for 1000 amp AC or DC connected to the 189 Fluke showing 89.79 ADC . The Fluke 8060A shows 11.21 VDC - As a note about amp hour and optional higher cranking amps. Generally AGM batteries are many times available with a higher cranking amps, my Vereys 650 uses 50 amp , Yuasa YTX12-BS is 180 C.C.A , they offer a 30% greater CCA battery-be aware it costs more, it is physically the same size and guess what, it has more plates-those plates are thinner and consider a motorcycle battery is subject to vibration and heat. The 180 CCA is more than 3 times what is needed to start the bike. More cranking amps generally == much shorter battery life--the term pay more for less couldn't be truer. I almost fell for this at our local distributor.

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Range Select
Many times the cheap meters have fixed ranges, 20 volts, 200 volts
Here is one for about $70 Canadian

First note it says manual ranging, the more expensive default to the highest range and have Function button, which then changes each push of the FUNC button to one range lower. Note this meter has several approvals including Cat 3 at 600 volts--being a electrician I had a Cat. 4 at 1000 volts, and required arc flash gear and electrical gloves rated for 600 VAC.

Note the right plug shows uA and mA-in a inexperienced person, this could cause permanent damage as a simple range selection, and planning on measuring volts after a quick milliamp test could have the meter fail. The only safe setting is using the A socket on the left and selecting 10 A range-
The more expensive meters even have a warning when putting a lead in the A socket and having the range selected to something other than amps
Note the volts DC go from 0.2 VDC up to 600 VDC . The AC range is disappointing as it has 600 and 200 , this is oriented to residential commercial wiring, not the automotive sector.
It does not have a REL button, it does have diode test
it has a audible continuity test
One downfall is it operates on 3 VDC -you get what you $$$$$$$for I am not a fan of Klein

When possible read the reviews, better yet, ask a qualified electrical person
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If the meter has that, bonus -what that is used for primarily is for measuring very low ohms, what happens is by joining / shorting your leads out and pressing REL is similar to a weigh scale using TARE . It subtracts the resistance in ohms of your meter leads and any attachment on them,it retains that until you either turn the meter off or change ranges.


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