Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

During the past months, I have received countless useful information from you, and I appreciate it fully. The last time I asked for your help, I was convinced I had an electrical problem due to the starter relay just clicking upon toggling the starting switch.

After load testing the battery, changing the starter solenoid, and changing the junction box: I still had the same symptoms. I also removed the starter and connected it directly to a battery. The starter was not seized

The only possible reason for the engine not turning over now is that the engine is seized in my opinion. Also, upon draining the oil, I smelled gasoline, and the oil viscosity was not the same as when I poured it in.

The bike was abandoned for 9 years until I laid my hands on it and tried to restore it. I got the engine to start a couple of times, and it did sound healthy, albeit a bit hesitant

What should be my course of action here? Should I rebuild the engine, or source a good used one? I am a bit tight on money for this project. Also, im a beginner (check my previous posts :).

If you recommend rebuilding, what kit should I buy?

I appreciate your help..

Sam

.
 

·
Fast Old Guy
Joined
·
19,897 Posts
Wow talk about the cart before the horse. Don't even think new engine till you get this one to run.
pull the plugs and try turning the engine by hand.
The normal route for gas to get to the sump is draining from the carbs (leaking carb float valves ) past the intake valve the draining past the piston rings into the sump.
You may have a cylinder full of gas.
It it very rare for this engine to seize unless the cylinder were full of coolant. IE: blown head gasket 8 years ago.
FOG
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,841 Posts
try turning the engine by hand.
Agreed, however IF you choose to use electric starter, be prepared for a major geyser of fuel spraying out and upward. Have a towel on the ready, cover your eyes, etc etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will try to spin the engine by hand tomorrow. Im just a bit confused as to where the fuel might come from. I cleaned/rebuilt the carbs recently and made sure the floats were okay before reassembling them. I also added a rail filter to the carbs to avoid future contaminants.

The only think I could think of, is me leaving the petcock on overnight, and flooding the Engine/Carbs (Last time I drained the carbs, a lot came out.)

also, the old oil that I drained did not contain any coolant in it,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,983 Posts
Regardless, get the plugs out first. Then, remove the large black plastic plug over the left side of the crankshaft. It removes counter-clockwise. Then put a socket and breaker bar or ratchet on the crank bolt and try to rotate it clockwise. If there is anything in the cylinders, it will come out. Best not to try the starter = speaking of which, the starter drive "might" be the problem. But check the cylinders first.

Float height works when the needle and seat are both in good shape. Some crud from anywhere in the fuel system could have blocked a needle open - it does not take much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,051 Posts
hi, the info above is all good so nothing to add on that front. just a couple of suggestions once the fuel is removed from the cylinders. add a few drops of engine oil into each cylinder (down the plug holes) to restore the compression on first start up. and of course drop and change the now diluted and contaminated oil in the sump.
one other point if you clean the carbs it is essential that you wet test the float levels before refitting to the bike to firmly establish the true fuel levels in the float chambers, if there wrong even by a few millimetres it can and will cause issues later on even if the float vales are working correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
I will try to spin the engine by hand tomorrow. Im just a bit confused as to where the fuel might come from. I cleaned/rebuilt the carbs recently and made sure the floats were okay before reassembling them. I also added a rail filter to the carbs to avoid future contaminants.

The only think I could think of, is me leaving the petcock on overnight, and flooding the Engine/Carbs (Last time I drained the carbs, a lot came out.)

also, the old oil that I drained did not contain any coolant in it,
Any update?
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top