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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
which wires on cdi must be hooked up to get spark. not using original harness. only concerned with spark. need help determining which wires must be hooked up on cdi and where they go. I only want to use the cdi and coils. no harness no lights etc. so if i have 2 coils and a cdi box with the plugs for the cdi and 2 inches of wire on the 2 plugs to cdi, can anyone tell me where the wires on the cdi go? what to hook to 12 volts positive and what to ground? the motor came off a running 1998 ninja 500. i removed the motor myself
 

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I'm afraid it's not that simple, there are integrated circuits you must use even if you don't want to. there are several wiring diagrams on the forum carefully inspect them . where the wires go and where from to complete each circuit. if you have two inches of each coloured wire in the plugs it should be straight forwards to work out. leave out any you can get away with but think ahead, how are you going to start it, charge the battery. how you are going to defeat the anti tamper circuit. and lock out system. half a dozen wires and a CDI is not going to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i was going tom start it with an automotive solenoid not worry about charging the battery, use the resistor to complete the anti theft and cannot the kickstand switch and neutral switch can be disregarded when the harness is abandoned? I have examined this motor closely and cannot find anything on the motor that will prevent starting if the3 harness is not hooked up. should there not be a way to hook pos where necessary, neg where necessary, put in the resistor and have spark? surely someone has used this motor in a buggy and abandoned the lights and all the bike accessories and just needs spark
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
there is nothing in the actual motor itself that is a safety switch is there? it is all in the harness and various switches in the kickstand clutch etc that prevent it from running correct? am i totally off base by believing that the wires in the cdi plug can be hooked up to either pos , neg, or pulse to get spark?
 

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Well, I agree with @yorkie it's not simple, and usually I advise folks to get the wire harness and all electrical from the bike with the engine,
then get the engine running in the Kart, then start taking away bits and pieces that seem unnecessary.

Part of the reason I suppose is laziness on my part, and a sneaking suspicion
that the Kart Guy probably can't handle the sophistication level of the challenge.

But for this situation, considering the way you asked the question, I think YOU might be the one person out of many who will attempt to minimally wire it up, and succeed!
So, I will PM to you copies of a wiring diagram, and we can discuss the bare minimum wires necessary to start that engine, why not?
(meanwhile you might run back to the bike and get the electrics, or call to reserve that stuff, just in case?)
 

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So, I will PM to you copies of a wiring diagram, and we can discuss the bare minimum wires necessary to start that engine, why not?
Because I would prefer that the entire community have the opportunity to view, and get involved with if they so choose, with this thread. (And everything related to this thread)
 

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It's an interesting question...that I can't answer :) but it should be possible. The diagram above for a Ninja 250 I got somewhere might show the difficulties...it's a bit of a Electro-Logic question...
d
You can puzzle this out and bridge the circuits you need to get perhaps. The wire colours might even agree ...

It's a peeve of mine, but it's important to know the difference between "CDI" ignition and "TCI" ignition . A complication is timing. It is electronic and in the Ignitor (TCI) box in these bikes. ROUGHLY speaking, the speed of the pulses from a small coil ("signal generator" or "pickup coil" activated by a magnet spun by crankshaft determines advance but really, it's not that simple...............

If you can't fool the Black box, you might consider using the ignition box from another bike that uses a "TCI" ignitor and has roughly the same advance characteristics....? 10-37.5 degrees?
 

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Here's a thread where someone else has a similar project. You might find others.
Here's specifics per electrics by BitOffTooMuch ...
 

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Getting the motor to spin is the easy part, wire up the starter solenoid correctly with a switch, and the starter should turn.

The tougher question is what to do with all the connections to the "Igniter Box"?
If you ignore a connection, you do so at your own risk, right?
I don't think anyone has an internal diagram for the igniter box?
 

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The tougher question is what to do with all the connections to the "Igniter Box"?
If you ignore a connection, you do so at your own risk, right?
I don't think anyone has an internal diagram for the igniter box?
you may be correct, when I looked for one 3 years ago I was unable to find one anywhere.
to be honest unless the OP uses the fuse box. or fabricates an electronic box with resistors and diodes to direct the current from the igniter box down the right wires back to the box it may be problematic.
then he needs the hall sensor wires connected and probably the charging circuit to maintain a stable spark output.
the inter connected lock out system will have to be addressed as the igniter relies on these on/off connections in order to work.
there are 3 input 12v power wires one from the switched ignition circuit the brown aux wire (feeds different connections) and the grey wire (this has to be throttled back via a 100ohm resistor) miss any of these and it's a lifeless dead duck.
no one said it was easy just doable.
 

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So, the wiring diagram shows 10 connections:

1: Green/White – connects to tachometer
2: Brown/White – connects to ignition fuse and stop switch
3: Black/Yellow – connects to negative battery terminal, ground
4: Black/White – connects to Coil #1
5: Green – connects to Coil #2

6: Green/Black – connects to fuse box/relay assembly
7: Black/Red – connects to fusebox/relay assembly and starter button

8: Grey – connects to ignition switch
9: Yellow – connects to one of the pickup coils
10: Black – connects to the other pickup coil

Looks like #3, #4, #5, #9 and #10 are no problem, but the rest
of the connections will need to be puzzled out, one by one.


Any ideas from OP @weldooi??
1: Green/White – connects to tachometer

2: Brown/White – connects to ignition fuse and stop switch

6: Green/Black – connects to fuse box/relay assembly

7: Black/Red – connects to fusebox/relay assembly and starter button

8: Grey – connects to ignition switch
 

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So, the wiring diagram shows 10 connections:

1: Green/White – connects to tachometer
2: Brown/White – connects to ignition fuse and stop switch
3: Black/Yellow – connects to negative battery terminal, ground
4: Black/White – connects to Coil #1
5: Green – connects to Coil #2

6: Green/Black – connects to fuse box/relay assembly
7: Black/Red – connects to fusebox/relay assembly and starter button

8: Grey – connects to ignition switch
9: Yellow – connects to one of the pickup coils
10: Black – connects to the other pickup coil

Looks like #3, #4, #5, #9 and #10 are no problem, but the rest
of the connections will need to be puzzled out, one by one.


Any ideas from OP @weldooi??
1: Green/White – connects to tachometer

2: Brown/White – connects to ignition fuse and stop switch

6: Green/Black – connects to fuse box/relay assembly

7: Black/Red – connects to fusebox/relay assembly and starter button

8: Grey – connects to ignition switch
I agree here, and this is my thought on the "ones to be puzzled out"
1) tach
2) switched 12v engine kill - to box and coils
6) Safety Switch circuit
7) Starter signal - hot on crank
8) switched 12v ignition

So basically you should be able to run 1 switched 12v circuit to your coils, pin 2, and pin 8. You need to put in a bypass of some sort for the safety switch circuit. And then just need a starter pushbutton feed to the starter relay and pin 7. Should do it.
 

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"I agree here, and this is my thought on the "ones to be puzzled out"
1) tach
2) switched 12v engine kill - to box and coils
6) Safety Switch circuit
7) Starter signal - hot on crank
8) switched 12v ignition
So basically you should be able to run 1 switched 12v circuit to your coils, pin 2, and pin 8.
You need to put in a bypass of some sort for the safety switch circuit.
And then just need a starter pushbutton feed to the starter relay and pin 7.
Should do it."

Maybe, maybe not. Who wants to risk shorting out the igniter box, or burning the wiring to experiment around to find out?
Especially when you could follow the group wisdom of transferring as many electrical pieces from the original bike?

BTW: looks like we lost the OP; maybe he figured it out, and he's out there bustin' some mud, big grin on his face, hope so!
 
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