[FlipFlop]

BTW since posting the last comment I looked at the Delkevic link their 2 into 1's do indeed have a centre stand landing point it's on the extension piece that goes between the header and can.

They added it then, that is pretty awesome! That was the big deal with the old Jardine system as they came out on the left side. Glad someone down there got it together as it was a simple welding task, just since it being a stainless system, welding in stainless makes it complete. Very good news for those wanting a 2 into 1.

 

[NOTHING]

Oh thank you for letting me know that. I just saw the one post about liking how 2 to 2 makes it the bike look more balanced. And that may be the right way to say it for the way i look at it also. I think if I had like a single side swing arm setup on a bike then i might be more ok with the 2 to 1 setup. I feel like I still have so much more to do on the bike before the season starts. And now i have the added task of figuring out how to mount this aftermarket lower fairing to the upper fairing....which has both tabs at the rear of gas tank broken. With having this lower fairing being fiber glass would I need to add heat protection stuff to it?

 

[yorkie]

without a photo it's hard to see the issue, but joining the lower pan to the upper front must mean you have a Pyramid lower pan. as the stock one has a gap and just fits to the lower frame being GRP it's self isn't a problem as the stock one is ABS plastic and that doesn't melt unless the exhaust is touching it.
GRP is also far more easy to repair/modify, also at this point I must add two important points, working out how to fit it all together as a mock up and actually fitting it to the bike is two separate actions, the first just makes sure it fit the bike the second requires all work on the bike is done, like the exhaust because once it's fitted it blocks the whole engine area and has to be constantly removed/refitted leading to damage and scratches on the newly painted fairings.

also quick word of warning if you decide to go with the Stainless Steel systems like Delkevic, DO NOT handle or fit the brand new systems using bare hands and /or dirty gloves, unless you clean the whole lot with mild solvent, because this contaminant (grease) will burn the SS with black patches on first start up so instead of the nice blue, green, purple hue you get on a new system it will have black burned on fingerprints that are impossible to remove later.
once the system has had a complete heat cycle this doesn't become an issue but on first start up it does.

 

[NOTHING]

You make a very valid point with getting exhaust completely situated before I get my stuff back from paint. I didn't realize the oilly grimy issue with stainless and black prints I will have to remember that for sure. The stock oil pan was pretty dripping with oil when i took it off. I think im going to see if my other other father's friend can go through the whole thing for me. I really want to send my carbs out there to duc too. But maybe i can have this guy check everything else out for me. That lower fairing I did test fit...without other panels on but it did line up well with where the upper sits...snd the issue with the upper is right where the bolts go on each side....they go up through the upper into I think welded nuts off the frame....well where ths holes on upper fairing are....arent there at all any more...they have been broken...so maybe my body/paint guy would be willing to fiberglass some....if not maybe hidden tuner stiches a few ghetto fixes and a whole bunch of hope should handle it. And what's grp?

 

[yorkie]

what's grp?

Fiberglass AKA, (Glass Re-enforced Polymer) and as for the black prints yeah I made that mistake fitting the Black widow headers. cleaned everything down on the pipes, fitted them using new gloves every time I touched the pipes. but had issues locating the last nut on the exhaust flange, so grabbed the pipe with my bare clean hand to hold it in place to fix the nut. and forgot about it. on start up and running a few mins noticed (just as the pipes were turning blue) a perfect black hand print appear on the left pipe. 4years since I fitted that exhaust and hand print is still there despite the 12k of miles running them.

 

[NOTHING]

Fiberglass AKA, (Glass Re-enforced Polymer) and as for the black prints yeah I made that mistake fitting the Black widow headers. cleaned everything down on the pipes, fitted them using new gloves every time I touched the pipes. but had issues locating the last nut on the exhaust flange, so grabbed the pipe with my bare clean hand to hold it in place to fix the nut. and forgot about it. on start up and running a few mins noticed (just as the pipes were turning blue) a perfect black hand print appear on the left pipe. 4years since I fitted that exhaust and hand print is still there despite the 12k of miles running them.

Oh no. But i guess the incredible one of a kind exhaust is the only way to look at that situation. Or clean the hell out of it and exhaust paint or tape it.

Fiberglass AKA, (Glass Re-enforced Polymer) and as for the black prints yeah I made that mistake fitting the Black widow headers. cleaned everything down on the pipes, fitted them using new gloves every time I touched the pipes. but had issues locating the last nut on the exhaust flange, so grabbed the pipe with my bare clean hand to hold it in place to fix the nut. and forgot about it. on start up and running a few mins noticed (just as the pipes were turning blue) a perfect black hand print appear on the left pipe. 4years since I fitted that exhaust and hand print is still there despite the 12k of miles running them.

Oh no. I guess the only way to look at that is at least it's an incredibly unique custom handling. Other than that could always stripped it again and high temp paint or tape it. I can see me forgetting and end up with prints for sure.

 

[yorkie]

well it doesn't bother me now with so many miles on it the pipes look a sort of brownie grey colour and the only bit noticeable is thumb print above the belly pan. painting or covering it up just seems to negate fitting the SS pipes in the first place. it's just a point worth remembering.

 

[FlipFlop]

My full lower I am removing as I decided I do not like it because the pipes are cooking it. I am unsure right now if it is due to the aftermarket exhaust or it being fiberglass. If did not burn it until this winter (and being sick for the last few months) I would go out to the shop and start the bike get it all the way up to running temp at both idle and 2-3k and some rev's. As long as I was actually moving and riding there was no damage that I was aware of. I was going to post a thread on this matter later but thought I would mention it as when you do this pay close attention to heat shielding of the exhaust.

 

[yorkie]

A member on the old (redundant) UK forum fitted the whole pyramid kit to his bike after throwing it down an embankment (ouch), he did a rebuild thread on the bike including fitting (or rather ill fitting) all the plastics, I can't remember the whole exercise but do remember the pipes he put on (Motad 2 into 1) were touching the under pan and burning it, his solution was to cut out a segment where the pipe touched and glass in a bulge to clear the pipe.
looked really neat after painting.

 

[NOTHING]

Well thank you both for the heads up on that. I was worried about that after putting an aftermarket fairing and getting it painted and possibly putting on a full delkivic that something like that could happen. So I think I'll make sure i take the precautions and assume that its going to happen and make sure I do the exhaust near the fairing with exhaust tape and then add something onto the actual fairing itself to try to prevent it as well. Would certainly be a horrible scenario to have happen.

 

[NOTHING]

Just as an update I took your guys advice of course and grabbed a full delkevic system heads back 2 to 2 14 carbon fibers. My pant guy didnt want to do the finishing body work on the aftermarket lower so im going to handle the bodywork stuff hopefully before he sprays my other parts. I also rescently just picked up a beautiful Ruroc liquid carbon 3.0 and got my ol lady the icon airflight. Season is approaching quick. Got so much to do and so little time. And majority of it is waiting for painted panels before i can do a whole lot more. Thanks fir everyone's tips and advice

 

[NOTHING]

Yorkie. I'm an auto tech so majority of my tools are at the shop...any chance you can give me an idea of what i should grab tool wise tomorrow on my way out to do that exhaust Wednesday? If not I can do the normal grab a little of everything. Just not sure what the new system will come with. And with all my plastic pieces off for paint i shouldnt have to remove anything else to swap the exhaust should I? This is the most in depth ive had to go so far. Definitely looking forward to spring time this year.

 

[yorkie]

off the top of my head (trying to remember) there will be two exhaust port clamps, 4 pipe clamps, 2 can brackets on the 2 into 2 system so 10,11,12,13,14 mm sockets long extension, short extension, ratched socket handle, possibly a 12,13,14 17, ring spanner and some sort of bar to hold up the headers while fixing the exhaust port clamps. that is assuming the clamps are STD bolt type if the clamps are allen headed of course you will need the matching driver.

fit the headers first get into position square on the ports and gaskets do up the nuts, manouver the pipe extenders (after fitting the clips line everything up. add cans/brackets to the rear peg mounts make sure all is square and bolt everything up tight.
note, with the rad in place the exhaust port header bolts/nuts can be a PITA to locate and keep square that is why a long extension is easier, good luck.

 

[NOTHING]

So i picked up my exhaust yesterday but some unforseen circumstances arose that caused install to be put on hold. When i unboxed i found...i think no actually gaskets but there is a tube of exhaust gasket sealant...is this actually the only gasket that will go between the engine and the headers? And is that the only location i would use it if so?

Side note....damn that stainless and that carbon fiber is absolutely breathtakingly beautiful. Thank you for the advice on the company.

 

[yorkie]

which kit did you buy i'lI check, they should be in there two copper rings if you bought the full kit.

 

[NOTHING]

I grabbed the heads back 2 to 2 14 inch carbon fiber ovals. And if they are then they are inside with some of the tubing and not in seperate packaging.

 

[yorkie]

sorry that wasn't the question I asked. all kits have a kit number. if you bought a kit. that was the number I asked for.
if you didn't buy a full kit but the headers and cans separate then you should have two kit numbers one for the headers and one for the cans.
the items supplied in each kit should be in the listing.

 

[NOTHING]

Oh sorry. Was getting ready for work rushing around. And on the way ti work now but i think the part number/kit number is COM0923 should be heads back full kit.

 

[yorkie]

ok should be here .

 

[ducatiman]

if the copper ring/exhaust gaskets are, in fact missing.....part # 11060-764 at $5.53 each from ronayers.com

truly not the end of the world