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Finally started on winter project.

1694 Views 131 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  FlipFlop
This is the first time I was able to get out in the garage to work since my health issue started back last December where I would feel good only for a few hours each day, and I turned out I had received a gift of MSRA was the root issue. On the mend and spent a week in the Hospital on IV antibiotics and 2 surgeries to go in and physically cut out infections in January then 3 weeks of pill form anti-biotics.

Anyhow... that is why I have not been doing things and just now getting around to doing.

Anyone who knows me, knows I love shiny parts but, I make them shiny with some elbow grease.

I am replacing my stator cover with another from fleabay and polishing out the center and repainted the rest of it to a nice glossiness. The clutch cover on the other side and the water pump will be off of an EN500 because, I like their looks better and the water pump is not trashed cosmetically.

FYI the en500 water pump cover bolts on wih no issues except they are not the same as the edge next to the EX clutch cover is thicker so it is not a perfect fit so unless you change the clutch cover like I am, it will look wrong but work. If it were not for Fogs rear sets the clutch cover would be too thick and would not work.

Also in the process of doing all this also will be checking/adjusting the valves and replacing the O-rings with a confirmation that the left O-ring was seeping just enough could barely see it with a flashlight and could not get a picture of it at all.

Picture explanations above each pic.

The new to me OEM lower Cowl I will be removing all the decals and touching it up and heat shielding it for installation. Color is close enough to my paint.

Hood Automotive tail & brake light Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting

This is the old water pump cover that I removed and a trash pump innards I bought to compare the EN500 innards. Glad I had it as the seals I got were wrong.

Art Aluminum can Machine Tin can Paint

Top seal is the one I received wrong and is considerably bigger as the one on the bottom is the one I drove out of my housing.

Wood Liquid Finger Nail Tints and shades

Covers off Stator side.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior

Covers off Clutch and water pump side. I put the impeller back on so I don't drop it and damage it.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Alloy wheel

CX500 Front fender extender to be modified for this bike.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Bicycle wheel

Future Shiny bits. Duplicolor Gloss black engine paint with ceramic apparently. Un buffed only paint removed and parts I want black repainted.

Auto part Eyewear Gadget Font Metal

I thought I would show also how I am attaching my Fiberglas Upper faring to the clip since it was cut off from the previous owner. Rivnut to the recue.

Hood Road surface Asphalt Bumper Automotive exterior
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For some reason whether I use chrome or the app I don't see feedback on the item in question but i see seller feedback instead. I've looked for item feedback on everything I try to buy because of obvious reasons and never can.
you won't it's not displayed on E-bay only the seller feed back is shown. try Amazon they do on individual items.
BTW, on those tank protectors you have to fit properly, clean the tank and de-grease it, then warm up the area to fit the protector, place it in position (note you only get one shot at it) smooth out flat with roller.
if you do it correctly it will never come off. if you do it wrong it will start peeling at the edges as soon as the bike is left in the sun for while.
pretty much a standard size. I measured the ones on my tanks there're more or less identical. while there is no need to get overly complicated ask yourself why you need one, if it's to protect your nice painted tank from scratches.
work out the area that would be scratched and by what.
usually this a press stud, belt buckle, or zipper, from your jacket or perhaps a tank or fanny bag.
get the protector that will actually protect the paint work not just one that looks nice. I bought a blue Moto GP one for the gen 1 looks great. but the bottom section is too narrow as a result the tank is scratched in the lower area.
so as a decorative piece looks great as a tank paint protector no so much.
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ouch that must hurt, must admit I have changed the seals about 4 times now never had an issue. mind you we have a Kawasaki on line dealer with 24 hr postage. never sent me a wrong part.. ""(YET)""
yeah Ron Ayers is big US supplier of parts you would think they would get it right. here we have a similar suppliers Partzilla and wemoto. but I'm not convinced their parts are OEM. fine for consumables but anything specific I go direct to the online dealer and order the OEM part by number.
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So I grabbed pictures of the downpipe and the little...tab...or something that's only in the one downpipe. I originally thought they were for the slip on springs...but the delkevic system does use them so figure thats out the window. Now I have no clue why and not sure which side of the bike i should put it on and which angle they should be pointing toward. Also took 2 of the collar piece in question.
The tab is on the first picture left of clamp and facing down.
OK are you ready for this, you have assembled the exhaust incorrectly that tab on the piece of pipe goes on the left hand side pointing downwards. it's the centre stand rest point, when the centre stand is up the rubber stop on the stand hits it and stops the stand from rubbing the chain or rattling on the pipe. just a @FlipFlop says.
I'm pretty sure also the spare ferrule goes on the join of the cross piece between the headers,
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My 2 into 2 had one of those collars on the crossover only.. Make sure you do not tighten it fully when you fit your lower, test fit it and be prepared to take it apart several times.
Oh boy is that an understatement. well pointed out @FlipFlop, minute adjustments make a huge difference to the fit. so no don't tighten anything down until all the pieces are in place and fit perfectly.

my 2 into 2 black widow system was supposed be OEM standard to fit the stock cans on. nope nothing like it 4 times on and off (two sets of gaskets) and a dozen mini adjustments later the cans are still not perfect.
turns out there should have been 2 mini S bends for the headers I never got.
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in theory they should be fine without paste on first fitment occasionallly you might need a smear if they have been off and put back on if you overtightened the clamps first time.

easy to test. takes 2mins. start bike leave running until it's warmish (so it runs without choke) and ticking over nicely,
then grab two pieces clean rag (one in each hand) cover both can ends with the rags. so it stops the exhaust gas coming out hold in place for 1/2min or until the engine falters and stops.
if it does the exhaust is gastight and no leaks. if it keeps running and you can hear gas escaping the exhaust is leaking.
you can easily find which joint it is and if required either tighten the clamp or at worst pull that joint and add a smear of paste to it. chances are it will be fine but worth checking.
and yes on first startup with new pipes they smoke and smell tinny that is the stainless steel curing and also burning off those fingerprints you put on fitting it and forgot to clean with solvent.
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yep perfectly normal, those pipes have just been heated to around 1700 degrees eventually they go a sort of greenie blue colour as least you don't have any black burned on fingerprints.
if you are in any doubt try heating some stainless steel with a blow torch. and watch the colour change.
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Ok good. I just have this horrible feeling that there's some sort of internals that aren't up to par. But maybe I should just try and do all my fluids tomorrow or something. Suggested fluids? Weight of oil/ type of coolant/ do I dare try and do others right now?
hi, it natural to be anxious when you have done a boatload of work on the bike, and you have done a lot on yours.
I get the same feelings and I have been at this 60 years, hence the shakedown run, first time out one expects it to fall apart and bits drop off, nervously contemplating a major breakdown any minute while on the first couple of rides.
yes you may get some teething issues many will go away on their own when it settles down, some may need an adjustment or two. until your confident in the work you have done. stop worrying so much. and try to find peace with your work.

if the oil and filter have been done already why bother just use 10/40w engine oil (just avoid the stuff with additives)
coolant should be I believe be 50/50 mix but this also should be clean as you changed it already I just used the premixed stuff in a gallon can from Walmart.

speaking of coolant perhaps when you filled it you left some air in the system this would cause the fluid to be pushed out of the system and overfill the the overflow bottle just keep the bottle to the max mark for a couple of runs out to see if it settles down.
I always do the two heat cycles bit if I have done anything to the coolant system before the final button up of panels.
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hi, the trouble with Chinese stuff is it's depends where it's made, you never know, seeing as how most of the components are made there for major suppliers it's a crap shoot, stuff made to original patterns tends to be ok but the trouble is once they get the drawings and tooling to make parts they allow anyone to copy it, and then copy the copies and so on each time diluting the original spec until very cheap almost useless items are produced and sold.
if you get one of these good luck.
I know this is true as last year I bought a new headlight for the car due to a cracked (none replaceable) glass lense direct from the dealer (OEM spec) at OEM's price, on the box (in very small writing) Made in China.
I have since seen almost identical similar units on sale in E-bay at a 1/4 of the price.
I'll bet their not the same though.
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if I have to clean and flush the radiator (not often needed) I disconnect the top and btm hose, remove the rad (4 screws) and one wire connector (for fan) block off the top hose inlet port, turn the rad upside down so the btm hose port is at the top. fill with rad flush then leave to stand for about an hour. then remove the tape off the top hose port and flush out with clean water with a hose pipe while the rad is upside down, when it runs clear it's clean inside.
dont forget to make sure any grime is removed from the rad matrix with the hose pipe jet to make sure you have good airflow when it's refitted.
I just want to clarify though. UK US wording differences i think. Haha. Hose pipe meaning like a water hose that you would water flowers with right?
The other is the radiator matrix. I'm not sure what that is. I'm thinking maybe the reservoir or overflow bottle?
No the matrix is the honeycomb area of the radiator, what the air goes through to cool the system if you hold the rad up to the light and look through it you will see road debris blocking the core (thrown there by the front wheel).
it's usually in the middle where the fan is.
If the matrix is the technical term it's hilarious ive worked on vehicles for 16 years now and everyone's always just said the fins.
yes it is the correct term. when anyone these days says Matrix they just think of the tile of a couple of films.
but a Matrix is a series of small units joined together to make one big unit, in the radiator there are dozens of small bore tubes that go from the top cavity to the bottom cavity (it's these that block up with debris). put enough in there it equals one big tube capable of allowing the fluid to flow freely from top to bottom.

if you think about it that is exactly the plot of the films, millions of human brains all connected to a super computer to create a imaginary world.
When I went to put more of that green mix-all in the other day at work I was going slow and felt like I barely got any in and it overflowed like crazy then dropped level significantly. Not sure if it was a bubble or if I poured more than it seemed
yeah that would be air, if you squeeze the hoses while filling slowly you can get most of it out like 99% of it when it stops producing bubbles. just fill to the top and button it up.
after a couple of heat cycles the air left will be replaced by fluid from the overflow bottle, just refill the bottle when cold.
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there is but if it's working ok leave it alone.
perhaps it's a faulty fan switch or just coated in grunge. it is the link between coolant temp and fan operation. not saying it is just it might be a possibility.
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I would be doing some digging and pulling the radiator to really really clean it as it would be very concerning.
exactly, that was why I suggested the reverse flush of the radiator after removing it.
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What size are those copper header gaskets?

Font Measuring instrument Rectangle Circle Fashion accessory
Camera accessory Camera Cameras & optics Gadget Font
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I probably should have added, the gaskets on most Kawasaki's are the same size (diameter) yes I do some research first. the ones above are a little thicker (I prefer that) when I was looking for some looked on the dealer site and thought "how much" Wow. for a copper ring. found some on E-bay for the 600 got a dozen for about 20 bucks, (still got most of them left).
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