Finally started on winter project.

1709 Views 131 Replies 6 Participants Last post by FlipFlop, 6 d ago

FlipFlop

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

8

This is the first time I was able to get out in the garage to work since my health issue started back last December where I would feel good only for a few hours each day, and I turned out I had received a gift of MSRA was the root issue. On the mend and spent a week in the Hospital on IV antibiotics and 2 surgeries to go in and physically cut out infections in January then 3 weeks of pill form anti-biotics.

Anyhow... that is why I have not been doing things and just now getting around to doing.

Anyone who knows me, knows I love shiny parts but, I make them shiny with some elbow grease.

I am replacing my stator cover with another from fleabay and polishing out the center and repainted the rest of it to a nice glossiness. The clutch cover on the other side and the water pump will be off of an EN500 because, I like their looks better and the water pump is not trashed cosmetically.

FYI the en500 water pump cover bolts on wih no issues except they are not the same as the edge next to the EX clutch cover is thicker so it is not a perfect fit so unless you change the clutch cover like I am, it will look wrong but work. If it were not for Fogs rear sets the clutch cover would be too thick and would not work.

Also in the process of doing all this also will be checking/adjusting the valves and replacing the O-rings with a confirmation that the left O-ring was seeping just enough could barely see it with a flashlight and could not get a picture of it at all.

Picture explanations above each pic.

The new to me OEM lower Cowl I will be removing all the decals and touching it up and heat shielding it for installation. Color is close enough to my paint.

Hood Automotive tail & brake light Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting

This is the old water pump cover that I removed and a trash pump innards I bought to compare the EN500 innards. Glad I had it as the seals I got were wrong.

Art Aluminum can Machine Tin can Paint

Top seal is the one I received wrong and is considerably bigger as the one on the bottom is the one I drove out of my housing.

Wood Liquid Finger Nail Tints and shades

Covers off Stator side.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior

Covers off Clutch and water pump side. I put the impeller back on so I don't drop it and damage it.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Alloy wheel

CX500 Front fender extender to be modified for this bike.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Bicycle wheel

Future Shiny bits. Duplicolor Gloss black engine paint with ceramic apparently. Un buffed only paint removed and parts I want black repainted.

Auto part Eyewear Gadget Font Metal

I thought I would show also how I am attaching my Fiberglas Upper faring to the clip since it was cut off from the previous owner. Rivnut to the recue.

Hood Road surface Asphalt Bumper Automotive exterior

See less See more

Reactions: 1

81 - 100 of 132 Posts

yorkie

· #81 · 26 d ago

yep perfectly normal, those pipes have just been heated to around 1700 degrees eventually they go a sort of greenie blue colour as least you don't have any black burned on fingerprints.
if you are in any doubt try heating some stainless steel with a blow torch. and watch the colour change.

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #82 · 26 d ago

yorkie said:
yep perfectly normal, those pipes have just been heated to around 1700 degrees eventually they go a sort of greenie blue colour as least you don't have any black burned on fingerprints.
if you are in any doubt try heating some stainless steel with a blow torch. and watch the colour change.

Ok good. I just have this horrible feeling that there's some sort of internals that aren't up to par. But maybe I should just try and do all my fluids tomorrow or something. Suggested fluids? Weight of oil/ type of coolant/ do I dare try and do others right now?

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #83 · 26 d ago

yorkie said:
yep perfectly normal, those pipes have just been heated to around 1700 degrees eventually they go a sort of greenie blue colour as least you don't have any black burned on fingerprints.
if you are in any doubt try heating some stainless steel with a blow torch. and watch the colour change.

And the coolant situation....i noticed my entire right side of tire is soaked with coolant. Right above my lower fairing down yonder I see the tube that appears to go straight to the coolant reservoir. Which is why I'm wondering if the coolant wasn't being cooled properly. I did not switch to the aftermarket lower fairing like planned so I don't understand why there would be any sort of change in engine cooling this year.

Reactions: 1

yorkie

· #84 · 26 d ago

NOTHING said:
Ok good. I just have this horrible feeling that there's some sort of internals that aren't up to par. But maybe I should just try and do all my fluids tomorrow or something. Suggested fluids? Weight of oil/ type of coolant/ do I dare try and do others right now?

hi, it natural to be anxious when you have done a boatload of work on the bike, and you have done a lot on yours.
I get the same feelings and I have been at this 60 years, hence the shakedown run, first time out one expects it to fall apart and bits drop off, nervously contemplating a major breakdown any minute while on the first couple of rides.
yes you may get some teething issues many will go away on their own when it settles down, some may need an adjustment or two. until your confident in the work you have done. stop worrying so much. and try to find peace with your work.

if the oil and filter have been done already why bother just use 10/40w engine oil (just avoid the stuff with additives)
coolant should be I believe be 50/50 mix but this also should be clean as you changed it already I just used the premixed stuff in a gallon can from Walmart.

speaking of coolant perhaps when you filled it you left some air in the system this would cause the fluid to be pushed out of the system and overfill the the overflow bottle just keep the bottle to the max mark for a couple of runs out to see if it settles down.
I always do the two heat cycles bit if I have done anything to the coolant system before the final button up of panels.

See less See more

FlipFlop

Discussion Starter · #85 · 26 d ago

NOTHING said:
And the coolant situation....i noticed my entire right side of tire is soaked with coolant. Right above my lower fairing down yonder I see the tube that appears to go straight to the coolant reservoir. Which is why I'm wondering if the coolant wasn't being cooled properly. I did not switch to the aftermarket lower fairing like planned so I don't understand why there would be any sort of change in engine cooling this year.

Yeah the fairing will make no difference on the cooling, It took about 4 runs for mine to settle in its place. This year for what ever reason my lower hose leaked on the water pump. I took the clamp off and put it back on no issues now. Just double check all your hoses, don't necessarily tighten them but check double check them, then rinse them off let them dry and test run again in short burst and progressively longer looking for leaks. This is what I do until I am confident that it is fixed. For what ever reason this year, this time the water pump was my nemesis.

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #86 · 25 d ago

yorkie said:
hi, it natural to be anxious when you have done a boatload of work on the bike, and you have done a lot on yours.
I get the same feelings and I have been at this 60 years, hence the shakedown run, first time out one expects it to fall apart and bits drop off, nervously contemplating a major breakdown any minute while on the first couple of rides.
yes you may get some teething issues many will go away on their own when it settles down, some may need an adjustment or two. until your confident in the work you have done. stop worrying so much. and try to find peace with your work.

if the oil and filter have been done already why bother just use 10/40w engine oil (just avoid the stuff with additives)
coolant should be I believe be 50/50 mix but this also should be clean as you changed it already I just used the premixed stuff in a gallon can from Walmart.

speaking of coolant perhaps when you filled it you left some air in the system this would cause the fluid to be pushed out of the system and overfill the the overflow bottle just keep the bottle to the max mark for a couple of runs out to see if it settles down.
I always do the two heat cycles bit if I have done anything to the coolant system before the final button up of panels.

So I'm a bit less worried about the stuff I tinkered with but I haven't changed the oil this year and I personally haven't touched the coolant system at all since i got it half way through last season. I could be wrong but I do think the color of the coolant may look a little light...but I've never seen straight and/or cut coolant for this bike. And again last night when I parked after work..right side of rear tire covered in coolant and coolant res sitting there bubbling...any time I've looked at the level ive always thought that looks low....both nights when I check it again it's way at the top...but still the temp hasn't been showing overheating or anything. I do kinda ride it hard....meaning with my gearing i went from top speed of 116MPH to 110ishMPH. Majority of my 40-50 mile venture home im traveling between 80 to 105MPH but in top gear staying around 10k RPM. But I would think if the coolant is getting so hot as to sit there pushing out of my res my temp should be showing high. The other thing ive noticed that my fan doesn't seem to be staying on like it used to last year when shuting down the engine. It used to run for another 30 seconds at least to continue cooling. I'm twice the distance from work to home now working at a new dealership so I definitely find that peculiar too. And the hose the coolant is coming from is the one that comes from top of coolant res down the right side and releases I assume overflow right above the furthest back part of the lower fairing near the center stand. Just don't want anything to happen to my baby. Lol.

See less See more

FlipFlop

Discussion Starter · #87 · 24 d ago

Coolant is bit of a science. Too much/little it can freeze still

, too little it can boil. 50/50 is the best to have in it as it also lubes the seal surfaces too. The green stuff the best to see the differences in.

In my shop I buy full strength and mix it with distilled water in a clean peanut clear plastic jar and added just that much at a time filled up the radiator first to the top, then filled the reservoir to the full mark ran it till it was showing on the gauge to be in the middle, then shut it down to cool completely, then checked and literally added maybe a few ounces then did it again and added again. I did this about 4 or 5 times then when I rode it in the warmer weather and it actually got up to temp running like that I added 1 more time again. It has not moved since. Just how I do it, and it has worked for me.

I do this yearly on all my vehicles too, since I hate the cooling system getting grimed up in the heater cores. Since the bikes have heater core size radiators, it makes since in my head.

One other thought make sure you check on the center stand every time or the side stand, mine does not have a factory center stand so I check it on the side stand so it is consistently the same "checking".

If it is not running hot just know that is considered an expansion tank, so the coolant can expand, when it expands it will make noise and it does expand thought the radiator cap. you may need a new one if it is not running hot but burbling a lot, just some thoughts.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #88 · 22 d ago

FlipFlop said:
Coolant is bit of a science. Too much/little it can freeze still , too little it can boil. 50/50 is the best to have in it as it also lubes the seal surfaces too. The green stuff the best to see the differences in.

In my shop I buy full strength and mix it with distilled water in a clean peanut clear plastic jar and added just that much at a time filled up the radiator first to the top, then filled the reservoir to the full mark ran it till it was showing on the gauge to be in the middle, then shut it down to cool completely, then checked and literally added maybe a few ounces then did it again and added again. I did this about 4 or 5 times then when I rode it in the warmer weather and it actually got up to temp running like that I added 1 more time again. It has not moved since. Just how I do it, and it has worked for me.

I do this yearly on all my vehicles too, since I hate the cooling system getting grimed up in the heater cores. Since the bikes have heater core size radiators, it makes since in my head.

One other thought make sure you check on the center stand every time or the side stand, mine does not have a factory center stand so I check it on the side stand so it is consistently the same "checking".

If it is not running hot just know that is considered an expansion tank, so the coolant can expand, when it expands it will make noise and it does expand thought the radiator cap. you may need a new one if it is not running hot but burbling a lot, just some thoughts.

well that's definitely comforting. Now that i know which kind yous suggest I'll actually do a change of coolant at the shop one these nights I'm there late. But i will say last night and today has been better. Maybe with it running properly it was getting a bit hotter. Whats still messing with me is that can did stay on longer than ignition off last night. But thats the first and only time this year. Maybe I'm just paranoid though. It is still cool in NY.

One other thing i discovered last night is i have no tach lights and no horn either..i did switch all to LED. I had them working when I tested all the lighting the other day. But maybe i blew a fuse when testing the mirror lights with a test light. Is there a fuse that would be on the same circuit between tach lights and horn? Or maybe I ended up blowing 2 fuses even. Where would they be located to check them? Certainly sucked not knowing speed or rpms or anything. And yes I already tried 180 the bulb to confirm its not backwards. Hopefully it's something stupid and easy. Thank yous and stay safe.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

FlipFlop

Discussion Starter · #89 · 22 d ago

LED's are a pain in my everything. Chinese garbage type in particular. They are everywhere in all types of packaging and some are marked boldly some are not. I have went through so many LEDS the CCP is well funded, and I have much regret of this. Trial and error or go back to conventional type. As for the tack double check your connections. There is only the one fuse block under the seat. Maybe double check your grounds.

yorkie

· #90 · 22 d ago

hi, the trouble with Chinese stuff is it's depends where it's made, you never know, seeing as how most of the components are made there for major suppliers it's a crap shoot, stuff made to original patterns tends to be ok but the trouble is once they get the drawings and tooling to make parts they allow anyone to copy it, and then copy the copies and so on each time diluting the original spec until very cheap almost useless items are produced and sold.
if you get one of these good luck.
I know this is true as last year I bought a new headlight for the car due to a cracked (none replaceable) glass lense direct from the dealer (OEM spec) at OEM's price, on the box (in very small writing) Made in China.
I have since seen almost identical similar units on sale in E-bay at a 1/4 of the price.
I'll bet their not the same though.

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #91 · 21 d ago

yorkie said:
hi, the trouble with Chinese stuff is it's depends where it's made, you never know, seeing as how most of the components are made there for major suppliers it's a crap shoot, stuff made to original patterns tends to be ok but the trouble is once they get the drawings and tooling to make parts they allow anyone to copy it, and then copy the copies and so on each time diluting the original spec until very cheap almost useless items are produced and sold.
if you get one of these good luck.
I know this is true as last year I bought a new headlight for the car due to a cracked (none replaceable) glass lense direct from the dealer (OEM spec) at OEM's price, on the box (in very small writing) Made in China.
I have since seen almost identical similar units on sale in E-bay at a 1/4 of the price.
I'll bet their not the same though.

Yeah unfortunately i knew this going in only because we have tons of customers come into the shop with issues with electrical and as soon as we inspect for dyi installed **** they get mad about the fact they shouldnt have an issue with it. Or modules and key fobs that they think should work and don't. But what's getting at me about it is that testing with a 9 volt battery and it working as designed. Which i do understand....isnt the same thing. But maybe i do need to try tying in resistors to both the front signals and see if that changes anything. I also just bought an adjustable speed flasher relay to see if maybe when i wired them the one way that is suggested and they flash erratic...but also became out of sync with the rear flashers is caused by say a 60 flash per second and a 70 flash per second difference. Kinda shooting in the dark and hoping for the best honestly.

NOTHING

· #92 · 21 d ago

6

I took some ok pictures the other day snd forgot about them. So here is the kinda complete winter project. I do still have domino grips/ puig tank protector/ stompgrip tank protectors for sides/ clutch cable that should all be coming within next couple days...so a few more pictures will be needed. The finish of "paint" is due to using hyperdip...instead of plastidip...my ignorance thought hyperdip was an upgraded version made by plastidip. Still supposed to get proper paint job at some point when my guy is able. Until then literally every bit of imperfection is seen under the dip.

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Fuel tank Vehicle

Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Fuel tank Vehicle

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Fuel tank Vehicle

Grille Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Automotive lighting

Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Automotive design

See less See more

Reactions: 3

NOTHING

· #93 · 19 d ago

Think I may have found my coolant bubbling/overheating as of last night/coolant coming out of overflow situation....i got some engine ice today and due to the process of using it decided I needed to just add some the same old green that was in there until tomorrow...well as I looked into the reservoir I saw a probably 3mmx10mm piece of debris...pulled it out and it was very grimy/gritty/nasty. Look at bottom of reservoir and see tons of sediment. Now I'm hoping that it's just some sort of blockage that is in there somewhere and I'll be able to run water backwards through the system and clear it out....am I able to use the same coolant cleaner from the company BG that I used to use in v2ars?...just obviously I would only use like a quarter of the amount usually used for cars. Or will relentlessly flushing with water be sufficient and recommended before adding the engine ice? I know either way I have to really make sure I get every bit of the old coolant out before adding the engine ice....from how it was explained to me at least

See less See more

FlipFlop

Discussion Starter · #94 · 19 d ago

If you have sediment in there, I would flush it out real good making sure, then add it in. Take the drain plug out of the bottom of the water pump, remove the hoses and flush rinse spray clean all tat real good before sticking it all back together and then making sure it is drained completely then add the green mixture.

I used distilled water with full strength, but the premixed is good. Just do it slowly filling the radiator first. Do not get in a big hurry your nerves will thank you.

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #95 · 18 d ago

FlipFlop said:
If you have sediment in there, I would flush it out real good making sure, then add it in. Take the drain plug out of the bottom of the water pump, remove the hoses and flush rinse spray clean all tat real good before sticking it all back together and then making sure it is drained completely then add the green mixture.

I used distilled water with full strength, but the premixed is good. Just do it slowly filling the radiator first. Do not get in a big hurry your nerves will thank you.

I saw the mention of full radiator first before....but how do you go about that? I didn't see anywhere except the top hose that, that could be accomplished. And I'm going to be using engine ice rather than the green mix stuff also.

yorkie

· #96 · 18 d ago

if I have to clean and flush the radiator (not often needed) I disconnect the top and btm hose, remove the rad (4 screws) and one wire connector (for fan) block off the top hose inlet port, turn the rad upside down so the btm hose port is at the top. fill with rad flush then leave to stand for about an hour. then remove the tape off the top hose port and flush out with clean water with a hose pipe while the rad is upside down, when it runs clear it's clean inside.
dont forget to make sure any grime is removed from the rad matrix with the hose pipe jet to make sure you have good airflow when it's refitted.

NOTHING

· #97 · 18 d ago

yorkie said:
if I have to clean and flush the radiator (not often needed) I disconnect the top and btm hose, remove the rad (4 screws) and one wire connector (for fan) block off the top hose inlet port, turn the rad upside down so the btm hose port is at the top. fill with rad flush then leave to stand for about an hour. then remove the tape off the top hose port and flush out with clean water with a hose pipe while the rad is upside down, when it runs clear it's clean inside.
dont forget to make sure any grime is removed from the rad matrix with the hose pipe jet to make sure you have good airflow when it's refitted.

Oh ok. There are a couple parts I just want to clarify though. UK US wording differences i think. Haha. Hose pipe meaning like a water hose that you would water flowers with right? The other is the radiator matrix. I'm not sure what that is. I'm thinking maybe the reservoir or overflow bottle?

Reactions: 1

yorkie

· #98 · 18 d ago

NOTHING said:
I just want to clarify though. UK US wording differences i think. Haha. Hose pipe meaning like a water hose that you would water flowers with right?

Correct.

NOTHING said:
The other is the radiator matrix. I'm not sure what that is. I'm thinking maybe the reservoir or overflow bottle?

No the matrix is the honeycomb area of the radiator, what the air goes through to cool the system if you hold the rad up to the light and look through it you will see road debris blocking the core (thrown there by the front wheel).
it's usually in the middle where the fan is.

NOTHING

· #99 · 18 d ago

yorkie said:
Correct.

No the matrix is the honeycomb area of the radiator, what the air goes through to cool the system if you hold the rad up to the light and look through it you will see road debris blocking the core (thrown there by the front wheel).
it's usually in the middle where the fan is.

If the matrix is the technical term it's hilarious ive worked on vehicles for 16 years now and everyone's always just said the fins. I'm hoping there's nothing wrong with the radiator itself other than the build up inside. When explaining to another rocket rider they had said before completely disassembling anything to take the upper rad hose off and try to start engine and make sure the water pump pushes coolant out that hose. Ensuring that the water pump isn't the cooling issue. But after seeing that sediment I'm not thinking the pump is the issue.

bpe

· #100 · 18 d ago

When I flush a radiator I flush the entire cooling system.

Remove the reservoir and clean it using distilled water, then reinstall. Drain the coolant. Refill the system with distilled water. Tap water is not good for the cooling system, too many hard water deposits. Warm the engine up and ride around a bit. Let the engine cool, at least an hour. Then repeat the process. Repeat the process about 4 or 5 times, until the water being drained in crystal clear. Once the water is clean, replenish the system with a 50/50 mix of distilled water/ethylene glycol coolant.

Reactions: 1

81 - 100 of 132 Posts