Finally started on winter project.

1709 Views 131 Replies 6 Participants Last post by FlipFlop, 6 d ago

FlipFlop

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

8

This is the first time I was able to get out in the garage to work since my health issue started back last December where I would feel good only for a few hours each day, and I turned out I had received a gift of MSRA was the root issue. On the mend and spent a week in the Hospital on IV antibiotics and 2 surgeries to go in and physically cut out infections in January then 3 weeks of pill form anti-biotics.

Anyhow... that is why I have not been doing things and just now getting around to doing.

Anyone who knows me, knows I love shiny parts but, I make them shiny with some elbow grease.

I am replacing my stator cover with another from fleabay and polishing out the center and repainted the rest of it to a nice glossiness. The clutch cover on the other side and the water pump will be off of an EN500 because, I like their looks better and the water pump is not trashed cosmetically.

FYI the en500 water pump cover bolts on wih no issues except they are not the same as the edge next to the EX clutch cover is thicker so it is not a perfect fit so unless you change the clutch cover like I am, it will look wrong but work. If it were not for Fogs rear sets the clutch cover would be too thick and would not work.

Also in the process of doing all this also will be checking/adjusting the valves and replacing the O-rings with a confirmation that the left O-ring was seeping just enough could barely see it with a flashlight and could not get a picture of it at all.

Picture explanations above each pic.

The new to me OEM lower Cowl I will be removing all the decals and touching it up and heat shielding it for installation. Color is close enough to my paint.

Hood Automotive tail & brake light Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting

This is the old water pump cover that I removed and a trash pump innards I bought to compare the EN500 innards. Glad I had it as the seals I got were wrong.

Art Aluminum can Machine Tin can Paint

Top seal is the one I received wrong and is considerably bigger as the one on the bottom is the one I drove out of my housing.

Wood Liquid Finger Nail Tints and shades

Covers off Stator side.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior

Covers off Clutch and water pump side. I put the impeller back on so I don't drop it and damage it.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Alloy wheel

CX500 Front fender extender to be modified for this bike.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Bicycle wheel

Future Shiny bits. Duplicolor Gloss black engine paint with ceramic apparently. Un buffed only paint removed and parts I want black repainted.

Auto part Eyewear Gadget Font Metal

I thought I would show also how I am attaching my Fiberglas Upper faring to the clip since it was cut off from the previous owner. Rivnut to the recue.

Hood Road surface Asphalt Bumper Automotive exterior

See less See more

Reactions: 1

101 - 120 of 132 Posts

yorkie

· #101 · 17 d ago

NOTHING said:
If the matrix is the technical term it's hilarious ive worked on vehicles for 16 years now and everyone's always just said the fins.

yes it is the correct term. when anyone these days says Matrix they just think of the tile of a couple of films.
but a Matrix is a series of small units joined together to make one big unit, in the radiator there are dozens of small bore tubes that go from the top cavity to the bottom cavity (it's these that block up with debris). put enough in there it equals one big tube capable of allowing the fluid to flow freely from top to bottom.

if you think about it that is exactly the plot of the films, millions of human brains all connected to a super computer to create a imaginary world.

NOTHING

· #102 · 17 d ago

yorkie said:
yes it is the correct term. when anyone these days says Matrix they just think of the tile of a couple of films.
but a Matrix is a series of small units joined together to make one big unit, in the radiator there are dozens of small bore tubes that go from the top cavity to the bottom cavity (it's these that block up with debris). put enough in there it equals one big tube capable of allowing the fluid to flow freely from top to bottom.

if you think about it that is exactly the plot of the films, millions of human brains all connected to a super computer to create a imaginary world.

Wow. Thanks for just blowing my mind with that tid bit. I feel like i never even knew the movie until now.
I happened to be installing my stomp knee grips and tank protector and when I was looking at a couple thinga i noticed my temp sensor has mad corrosion all around the terminals...i popped it off and cleaned best i could until I ride to work next time and can get my electrical cleaning stuff to it. But between that and the sediment...i think I've found the issue. Will need to back flush the sediment out first couple times im sure. And like suggested definitely will be pulling the radiator and res off to get them both as clean as possible and hopefully get the block nice and flushed as well. Thanks for the input and info for everything for sure.

Reactions: 1

FlipFlop

Discussion Starter · #103 · 17 d ago

Sounds like you are on the right track to me.

When I fill the radiator first, I simply take the cap off and fill that way. I know the cap is not right on the radiator but it fill directly to it pretty much and fills the system. I run that for a little bit and do not believe it is an accident when the bike is on its side stand that it is on the higher side....

NOTHING

· #104 · 17 d ago

FlipFlop said:
Sounds like you are on the right track to me.

When I fill the radiator first, I simply take the cap off and fill that way. I know the cap is not right on the radiator but it fill directly to it pretty much and fills the system. I run that for a little bit and do not believe it is an accident when the bike is on its side stand that it is on the higher side....

Well thats a very good point. I imagine just have to pour super slow? When I went to put more of that green mix-all in the other day at work I was going slow and felt like I barely got any in and it overflowed like crazy then dropped level significantly. Not sure if it was a bubble or if I poured more than it seemed or what.

Reactions: 1

yorkie

· #105 · 17 d ago

NOTHING said:
When I went to put more of that green mix-all in the other day at work I was going slow and felt like I barely got any in and it overflowed like crazy then dropped level significantly. Not sure if it was a bubble or if I poured more than it seemed

yeah that would be air, if you squeeze the hoses while filling slowly you can get most of it out like 99% of it when it stops producing bubbles. just fill to the top and button it up.
after a couple of heat cycles the air left will be replaced by fluid from the overflow bottle, just refill the bottle when cold.

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #106 · 17 d ago

yorkie said:
yeah that would be air, if you squeeze the hoses while filling slowly you can get most of it out like 99% of it when it stops producing bubbles. just fill to the top and button it up.
after a couple of heat cycles the air left will be replaced by fluid from the overflow bottle, just refill the bottle when cold.

Oh ok. So very similar to doing cars then. Is there a thermostat i should replace while im in there too?

NOTHING

· #107 · 17 d ago

NOTHING said:
Oh ok. So very similar to doing cars then. Is there a thermostat i should replace while im in there too? Or any seals/gaskets that will need to be replaced?

yorkie

· #108 · 17 d ago

there is but if it's working ok leave it alone.

NOTHING

· #109 · 16 d ago

yorkie said:
there is but if it's working ok leave it alone.

Oh got cha. Wasn't sure if with the sediment I should do it or not.

NOTHING

· #110 · 15 d ago

yorkie said:
there is but if it's working ok leave it alone.

With the overheating shouldn't my fan be staying on after key off like it used to last year when it wasnt overheating? I have had a couple times it stay on for just a little bit after key off...but not as long as it used to. Just seems odd that now the coolant temp is abnormal and the fan doesn't try cooling it down the same way as when it wasnt.

yorkie

· #111 · 15 d ago

perhaps it's a faulty fan switch or just coated in grunge. it is the link between coolant temp and fan operation. not saying it is just it might be a possibility.

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #112 · 15 d ago

yorkie said:
perhaps it's a faulty fan switch or just coated in grunge. it is the link between coolant temp and fan operation. not saying it is just it might be a possibility.

I may or may not have picked up an electrical demon. I had replaced a blown fuse whivh was to the tach lights. I went for NYSI and the horn wasn't working. So he didn't even have me bring it in so didnt charge me but...i get home...test power and ground and all good...as I hit horn button to test said power and ground I hit signal accidentally....which made my left signal "flow" like we were trying to figure out....hit signal off and wouldn't go off...tested right side and again wouldn't go off but both were sitting there like running lights but flowing....so I disconnected and switched the powers to them which provided normal running light function and normal signal light flow function....but when I test started the engine the starter now seems noisy....also found the horn issue is the terminals on the horn when bent a bit makes it work as it should. I know PO had to mess with some electrical situation to get her even running so hopefully I won't need to run through the entire thing and just say send it and replace all wiring with new harnesses. I do see at the one connector over the battery on the right side has a few terminals starting to corrode a little bit too. I don't know if I'm really asking anything this time or if I'm venting and celebrating or what I'm really saying.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

FlipFlop

Discussion Starter · #113 · 15 d ago

Fan should stay on with key off if it needs the heat is high enough to warrant it to run. Going down the road the moving down the road should be enough to keep it cool. If it is running hot now truly not just air and it was not last year I would be doing some digging and pulling the radiator to really really clean it as it would be very concerning.

Reactions: 1

yorkie

· #114 · 15 d ago

FlipFlop said:
I would be doing some digging and pulling the radiator to really really clean it as it would be very concerning.

exactly, that was why I suggested the reverse flush of the radiator after removing it.

Reactions: 1

NOTHING

· #115 · 15 d ago

yorkie said:
exactly, that was why I suggested the reverse flush of the radiator after removing it.

Yeah I'll definitely be doing the flush as soon as possible. Unfortunately every day at the shop i work at it's like i cant even take a lunch to get it started for when I finally finish with work at night to finish it up. And with that engine ice stuff I guess every bit of the old coolant must come out of it'll be even worse. But I'll certainly be doing it as soon as i get the time. I wont be able to run it when it actually gets hot out at this condition.

NOTHING

· #116 · 10 d ago

yorkie said:
in theory they should be fine without paste on first fitment occasionallly you might need a smear if they have been off and put back on if you overtightened the clamps first time.

easy to test. takes 2mins. start bike leave running until it's warmish (so it runs without choke) and ticking over nicely,
then grab two pieces clean rag (one in each hand) cover both can ends with the rags. so it stops the exhaust gas coming out hold in place for 1/2min or until the engine falters and stops.
if it does the exhaust is gastight and no leaks. if it keeps running and you can hear gas escaping the exhaust is leaking.
you can easily find which joint it is and if required either tighten the clamp or at worst pull that joint and add a smear of paste to it. chances are it will be fine but worth checking.
and yes on first startup with new pipes they smoke and smell tinny that is the stainless steel curing and also burning off those fingerprints you put on fitting it and forgot to clean with solvent.

What size are those copper header gaskets?

bpe

· #117 · 10 d ago

NOTHING said:
What size are those copper header gaskets?

Kawasaki part # 11060-1764
2006 Kawasaki NINJA 500 (EX500D6F) Muffler(S) | Ron Ayers

Retorque the headers down a second time after the first ride.

yorkie

· #118 · 10 d ago

2

NOTHING said:
What size are those copper header gaskets?

Font Measuring instrument Rectangle Circle Fashion accessory

Camera accessory Camera Cameras & optics Gadget Font

See less See more

yorkie

· #119 · 10 d ago

I probably should have added, the gaskets on most Kawasaki's are the same size (diameter) yes I do some research first. the ones above are a little thicker (I prefer that) when I was looking for some looked on the dealer site and thought "how much" Wow. for a copper ring. found some on E-bay for the 600 got a dozen for about 20 bucks, (still got most of them left).

NOTHING

· #120 · 10 d ago

yorkie said:
I probably should have added, the gaskets on most Kawasaki's are the same size (diameter) yes I do some research first. the ones above are a little thicker (I prefer that) when I was looking for some looked on the dealer site and thought "how much" Wow. for a copper ring. found some on E-bay for the 600 got a dozen for about 20 bucks, (still got most of them left).

Oh man thank you greatly. Why do you go with the bigger sized ones than listed just out of curiosity? And maybe all I need to do is retorque them because I never touched them after intital install. I also only went by feel...on something I've never messed with which I admit is a very stupid choice. Thank yous greatly for the quick responses too. Going to get them ordered asap. Was going to order from delkivic again but I assume they are probably pretty pricey for something that doesn't need to be bought straight from them.

101 - 120 of 132 Posts