Finally started on winter project.

yorkie said:

exactly, that was why I suggested the reverse flush of the radiator after removing it.

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@FlipFlop @yorkie
So I did the reverse flush...and used a coolant system cleaner same day...also used engine ice after flushing everything with water for awhile. Didn't see much for sediment other than inside the reservoir which also got completely cleaned out. Ensured no air left in system. Ensured that water pump kicked water out when hose was off by crank engine quick and watching some push out rapidly....got as much of the pure engine ice in as possible. Was good for a trip home...then to the shop...then home. The day after those trips I had same heating concern where the temp goes up just under red zone and ends up bubbling coolant out of the overflow. After a week of hoping maybe an air pocket would randomly be the issue or the way I was riding it hard was too much or something. Still overheat. So tonight I did a carbon test at radiator cap and found no head gasket leak thankfully. Pulled the plugs and could and found one with some carbon build up as it should and the other slightly white due to burning lean as ive been told here and in person. Also when doing carbon test my headers were glowing red. I mean red red ...like forging a damn knife kinda red. I've been suggested to replace the radiator cap as the issue with the coolant concern. And then someone tried telling me they think the carbs would be the issue for running lean which being duc handled those I have nothing but doubt that thats the actual issue there. So I guess I'm looking at where the hell do i start?
Could the cap really be the issue with coolant heating that much? Or could it be thermostat or temp sensor? Someone tried telling me to just gut the thermostat because being we don't have to use the heat like in a car then theres no reason to have the thermostat there holding back coolant? Still need to do this exhaust header leak repair too if that could doubtfully factor into any of it.

hi, the trouble is there are so many variables with the cooling system it's difficult to know where to start, you obviously have some issues cleaning out the system didn't solve.
I would start by going through it one step at a time, the first question is, is the engine really getting hot or is the gauge lying to you. for instance when the gauge says hot is the fan running and when the fan comes on does it show it cooling down.
at what point does the fan come on in relation to the reading on the gauge, and a what point does it go off.
once you establish the engine is indeed getting hot (if it is) then ask why is it.
it could be the pressure cap is faulty or worn out this would cause the gurgling you describe as it's not holding pressure in the system, and as any elementry student knows the lower the pressure the lower the boiling point is the higher it is the higher the boiling point (it's how a pressure cooker works) if the pressure is high enough it would never boil (in theory).
if the pressure is good and it's still hot you then have to think why is it, it could be the thermostat is not fully opening restricting the coolant flow, the other thing to consider is a weak mixture would make it run hotter,
so then think why would it be weak.
well it seems one side is at least (by the plugs) this could be a vac leak (too much air) or not enough fuel.
Duc's done the carbs so you know they are no issues there, But despite Gordon's best efforts some bikes will need a final tweak of the pilots. no two bikes are the same and most engines will not run exactly the same on both cylinders. often you get lucky but the exception is common.
my gen 1 runs weak on the right side but the gen 2 runs weak on the left side. the pilots are different on both bikes they start the same @ 2.5 turns out but rarely end up that way, in order to balance the old gen 1 one is about 2 turns out the other 2.75 turns out. so keep this in mind.
also check for vac leaks as this will throw your carb setting out of the window have you sealed the vac ports and all the stuff that you took off removing the PAIR system. all these things have to be considered yes a lot I know.

the last point exhausts they probably shouldn't be getting that hot but they will run hotter than stock due to the construction of the pipes. but the again hot pipes can be a sign of running a weak mixture.
a lot to think about yet before you have all the answers, so just go through them one at a time until some answers are found. all I can say really, only what's happening is not normal for this bike.