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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought this 2002 EX500 with 13,000 miles on it. I paid next to nothing for the bike because it wasn’t running. Dumped the 8 year old gas out, put new plugs in it and cleaned out the airbox and she fired right up. Turned the idle screw so it didn’t sit at 3,000 RPMs. Now I’m chasing my final issue minus the fact it needs to be on a jump pack at all times, but thats for a later date. I’ve tried adjusting the cable and the handle, made sure the cable is ran correctly and she had fluid before I drained it. I just cannot for the life of me get this thing in to any gear. I slammed it into first in the air then when I released the clutch it died. Need some help because it’s sitting at work in the shop and cannot stay there.
 

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07 Ducati SS800 '95 Ducati 900SS/SP '19 Honda CBR650R
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do yourself a favor and Google " kawasaki positive neutral finder"

and explore function of the clutch switch as well, at end of hand clutch lever, btw
 
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Tanker Clown
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Highly likely all the clutch plates are hydro locked from sitting for so long. Get a new battery. Start the bike & let it idle until the engine reaches operating temperature.

Make sure you have the correct free play in the clutch cable, and operate the clutch lever several times. Roll the bike so the front tire is agains a wall. A real wall, not dry wall or wooden fence.

Disengage the clutch and select 1st gear. Hold the front brake and give it some throttle and release the clutch lever. You may have to select 1st then disengage the clutch and start the engine to make this work.

The point is, you’re trying to free the clutch plates up. Getting some warm oil to circulate around the clutch will help to a degree. You may have to repeat the above exercise a couple times to free everything up.

Assuming of course that the only thing in the crankcase is oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I appreciate everyone’s responses greatly and apologize for my lack of understanding. I was a fleet mechanic for years and bikes have always been foreign to me. I took off the clutch cover and inspected the discs they were fine. Changed all the fluids let her sit idling at around 1200 for a good 15 minutes. Took it out to the parking lot and shes good! The brakes suck, but that’s for another day. I also am trying to track down a battery local so I don’t have to stuff a jumpbox under the seat😂
 

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Tanker Clown
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I was a fleet mechanic for a couple decades also. It’s all the same. Stuff goes up & down and round & round. Just less of it on a bike.

Check Autozone if you have one. They had a battery for my Aprilia and those aren’t so easy to find. An EX uses a 14LA2….those are everywhere. I’ve even gotten one at my local Interstate battery place.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was a fleet mechanic for a couple decades also. It’s all the same. Stuff goes up & down and round & round. Just less of it on a bike.

Check Autozone if you have one. They had a battery for my Aprilia and those aren’t so easy to find. An EX uses a 14LA2….those are everywhere. I’ve even gotten one at my local Interstate battery place.
Will do. Just rode it up and down the street. She got warm so I shut it off (still needs more coolant), but will get a battery tonight hopefully!
 

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I also am trying to track down a battery local so I don’t have to stuff a jumpbox under the seat😂
suggest to not cheap out....get a Yuasa YB14L-A2 AGM
 

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Took it out to the parking lot and shes good! The brakes suck, but that’s for another day.
So the brakes on this bike are what you’d call “automotive” like. The front caliper is a two piston affair that slides on pins to apply the pad opposite the pistons.

The grease on the pins gets old and stiffens to a glue like consistency. Unless the pads are shot, a simple disassemble, clean, lube & reassembly might be enough for now. Last one I did probably took all of 30 minutes.
 
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suggest to not cheap out....get a Yuasa YB14L-A2 AGM
CAREFUL! I only got nine years out of my last one! OK, just joking there. Decided to try a also American-made DEKA ETX15L this time. So far so good.
As to wet clutches, they always stick after sitting. Two methods I use: 1. Engine warmed up and running in neutral. Pull the clutch in, hold it there and rev the bike rapidly a couple of times. The mass of the transmission offers enough resistance so that the plates, with no spring pressure on them, will usually release.
2. Engine off. Put it in first gear, then pull the clutch in and hold it in. Rock the bike back and forth with some gusto and 2-3 tries usually break them free.
It is so nice to have a bike with a dry clutch - but that's another story.
 
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