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Does it matter if I use synthetic oil or regular motor oil if it's my first oil change at around 100 miles?

I've read through the forums search on oil threads and the like and haven't found an answer to this question. Now I may be dumb and all, but I was wondering, since synthetic was recommended by a few members, and I thought I should use it, and also for breaking in the engine, I should do an oil change around this point. So yeah! Thanks.
 

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You might just have opened a can of worms... Everyone has their favorite recipe.. ;)

I use synthetic.
 

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Wow that was fast, thanks. I didn't know if it effected anything. I don't know why but I could've sworn I remembered there was something that was bad about using synthetic on a engine being broken in. Must just be my head! Thanks for the reply.
 

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For a long time, 2-3 decades, conventional wisdom said an engine should be broken in before switching to synthetic. Seems that newer compositions of rings, & bore-practices, for some engines anyway, allow synthetic/blend from the get-go. I don't know if our 500 is one of them.

You may want to go to homepage then do a search for "oil" and read away. Lots of good info & diverse perspectives... as well as tests on different oil brands & filters.

Wal-Mart seems to have pretty good deals for oil & filter. I'm going with Shell Rotella T 15W-40 ($7-8gal) & the Supertech ST7317 filter ($3). Don't use "fuel saving" (moly containing) oil.
 

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Just from what all I have read , you should wait about 4000 miles before switching over to syn. , I was at the same delima a few weeks back and spent a few hour reading up on it .
 

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Just replying so I can get a quick reference to the filter number. We really need a subscribe to threads thing on this forum..haha.
 

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down at the lower right click the notify tab. you'll get emails!

the oil filter i got at walmart was fram, $6. sheesh.

Ph6017A
 

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These Oil Filters
have 20 x 1.5mm threads,
14 psi by-pass valve,
anti-drain back valve,
2.3" O.D. gasket
2.5" to 3.5" long.
If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters.
Motorcycle Filters.
None are recommended.

AC Delco PF2135
AMSOil SMF103
Carquest 85358
FRAM PH6017A
Honda 15410-MCJ-000
K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal.
NAPA Gold 1358
Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator.
STP SMO 17
WIX 51358
Recommended filters.
All have superior
filtering.

About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6.
Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6.
Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317,
about $2. Made by Champion.
Buy these filters Automobile Filters,
about 2.5 inches long.
AC Delco PF1237
Baldwin B1400
Firestone TF2876
Hastings LF113
NAPA Gold 1365
Purolator L14612
STP S-02876
WalMart SuperTech ST6607
WIX 51365
Automobile Filters,
about 3.25 inches long.
AC Delco PF-2057
Auto Pro 2356
Autopride CF240AP
Baldwin B1402
Carquest 85356
Carquest Red B4620
Casite CF240
Castrol 7317
Champion Labs Ph2867
Defense Filters Dl7317
Deutsch D-370
Federated Filters LF240F
Automobile Filters,
about 3.25 inches long.
Fram Double Guard DG7317
Fram PH7317
Fram Tough Guard TG7317
Fram Xtra Guard XG7317
Group 7 V4610
Group 7 V4620
Hastings LF240
Mighty M4612
Motorcraft Long Life FL-821
Napa FIL1356
Napa Gold 1356
Parts Plus PH2867
Pennzoil PZ-109
Penske 7317
Powerflo SL14610
Powerflo SL14620
Pro Gauge PGO-4620
Pro Tec 164
Promotive PH4610
Pronto PO3593A
Purolator L14610
Service Champ OF-4622
Shell SH48
Shell SH529
Stp S-02867.
Valvoline VO50
Warner PH2867
Wix 51356
 

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Save yourself some money and stick with the "normal" petroleum stuff till a least 1000 miles. I have seen 2 of my race engines glaze their cylinder bores in a way the prevented to rings from properly seating. This caused Oil burning.

The factory does a better job at bore honeing than me for sure, but the rings still have to seat. Some of the Synthetic oils will delay this and cause oil consumption problems.

Stay Dyno.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
Save yourself some money and stick with the "normal" petroleum stuff till a least 1000 miles. I have seen 2 of my race engines glaze their cylinder bores in a way the prevented to rings from properly seating. This caused Oil burning.

The factory does a better job at bore honeing than me for sure, but the rings still have to seat. Some of the Synthetic oils will delay this and cause oil consumption problems.

Stay Dyno.

FOG
how long ago was that FOG?
 

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Just 3-4 years.

FOG
 

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Took about 5,000 miles for the fuel economy of my Ford Focus to stabilize. Only then did I consider switching to synthetic. I'm sure a bike breaks-in quicker, but I'd still wait until after the second oil change to switch.

I just swapped the 500 over to Amsoil 10W40 with an EAO filter at 6,600 miles.
 
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