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(Fixed)Wiring help no spark

9K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  bpe 
#1 ·
Hello everyone I'm looking for some help or pointers on trying to figure out my issues
I have a 1997 gpz500r UK spec.

I got the bike as a project none runner (no keys)

I managed to remove the ignition module and drill the locking pins out of the tumbler so I can operate the ignition with a flat blade screw driver.

I tested the bike it spins over great but no spark,

Here are the things I've tested and ect to attempt to locate the issue.
100ohm grey resistor ok
Coils checked 4ohm and 13kohm on the main and second windings
(Battery is new and it's on charge while testing)
Clutch switch bypassed
Side stand bypassed
Front brake switch joined (temp)
The neutral light is on the bike is out of gear.

Things I noticed while IGN is on
oil pressure light does not come on
Tacho does not move while cranking
Maybe its a linked issue not sure?

I also found these faults and repaired them prior to fault checking.
3 wires onto the starter relay were cut off (I have fitted new spade connectors and popped them onto the relevant connections)
All the fuses check out good x2 were blown

My next steps are to use a led flasher to check for pulse from stator
After this I'm kind of at a end and prob will end up changing the cdi unit?
And thoughts guys t.i.a
Craig.
 
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Discussion starter · #2 · (Edited)
Followed the wiki on testing pickups,
I measure the resistance between the 2 pin connector on the stator side (ex500d version single pick up)I get 470ohm.
Which is in spec
However testing each pin to ground I get open circuit no resistance is that right ?

I did the led flasher test on the same plug and as the engine is cranking the led does infact flash
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
hey onewizard ,
so the results are as follows
coil one <green wire>
0 volts / and zero volts cranking
coil two <black/white trace>
0 volts / 0 volts cranking
batt voltage 12.8 static /11.9v cranking <i am slave connected to a diesel 12v car battery to eliminate voltage drop >

thanks
Craig
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Okay I think this is the correct current flow diagram for bike
Vin no is EX500D-03****
Going by this diagram I should see 10v (12v 100ohm resistor grey wire) on the 3 pin plug left side of the igniter ?
Rectangle Schematic Font Floor plan Parallel

Thank in advance
Craig
 
Discussion starter · #11 · (Edited)
Ok
So....
I've checked the pick up I'm getting a resistance value of 470ohm
I also led flasher tested the pick up coil all is good there
I checked the grey wire , I had zero volts to the igniter box ,
Checking the wiring found the ign switch at fault
I bypassed the switch and wire the brown grey and white wire together , added a 100ohm resistor inline on the grey wire I'm now at 6v at the igniter switch
I have removed the fuse box checked all the fuses again and stripped the board down and had a look over nothing sticks out to be at fault with it
I cannot test the lights / horn / flashers ect as the handle bar switch gear on the left is missing atm I have ordered a replacement but it dosent look linked into the start / run
Anything else I can check and is the 6v too low at the igniter ?
I'm sure it's supposed to be 10v otherwise it won't spark (so I read)
T.i.a

(Edit)
6v on the grey wire at the igniter
If I unplug the igniter I get 12v on the grey i
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
The grey wire 100ohm resistor is for anti theft
If someone were to just snip the ignition switch wires and twist them together the bike wouldn't start
The cdi/ignitor takes a ref voltage from the gray wire and sees the difference between that and the brown 12v wire and knows its good to start
As winding all the wires together would just give 12v down the grey and the igniter knows that's not correct and won't give spark
(This is just from what I have read on the forum so far )
This is the function of the 100ohm set up
Either way I fitted the resistor and still no spark.... ha ha ha
So I fear there is somthing else causing the issue
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the input fellas I shall post results this evening once I finish work,
I'll try the brown and grey wire resistance @yorkie
And yes I get what you mean about why it has been stood or parked to begin with. Its true it Could be anything ......but...... regardles it won't best me
Even if I have to replace the whole electrical system the bike it going back into service ha ha ha
The bike just dosent know that yet
We will figure it out I'm sure
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Well interesting, I have the drawing up , I wear trifocals to lots of fun, I see where the resistor is inserted between the key-switch and brown wire. With the switch on, it shows that gray wire as IGN. What I see is the gray should be the full 12 VDC and the brown a reduced voltage, you should be able to take a meter, connect to the negative battery terminal and if you insert the resistor unless that is something else in the drawing.Measure across the resistor and post the voltage. Subtract that from battery voltage and that is what the brown wire is at within the ignitor.-Or Not

View attachment 55669
Are you sure you have the right current flow diagram buddy?
As my ignition system differs from this
The bikes are different from NA and Europe
My ignition system is a 5 wire system
My bike is a 1997/98 UK spec
Er500-03
Tia
Craig.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
@onewizard okay well I'll order a known good cdi unit and take it from there ,for the none spark.
Thanks for the help so far appreciate it 👍.

Also while I'm getting hold of a new cdi
I've sourced the following Parts ready to swap over

A full wiring loom mine is tatty and has been repaired before has various plugs cut off and hardwired also they have filled the plugs with axel grease instead of dielectric grease So so its kind of a mess,don't need that headache.

New regulator rectifier mine has the plug cut off and hardwired to the main loom
The regulator also looks a bit scabby and I see corrosion building up on the case around where the wires come out of the body of the regulator.

New left hand switch gear was missing to begin with

And a 100ohm resistor just to be safe

Failing all this I'll start with ordering a stator plate and windings pick up coil and fly wheel

As I say the bike is going back into service regardless if it likes it or not lol
Once ive gotten the spark the bike will be stripped blasted and repainted and restored
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Just want to thank everyone here for thier input the bikes fixed
Faulty cdi unit
Material property Gas Font Rectangle Jewellery


The only advice I can give when chasing this gremlin
Is to remove all visible electrics and inspect
Had I pulled the cdi off to visually check it inbound have saved 100s of questions and hours of messing around

Cheers fellas
 
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