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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the story.

So I took the side pannel of the chain protector off so that I could remove some of the junk that gets caught with the chain. Then I put it back on and went for a short ride. About 2 minutes into the ride my oil light came on but it flickers a little bit. I rode home and checked the oil level, it seems fine but I added a little anyways. I don't know if the chain it even related to the oil problem.

I changed the oil about a month ago.
 

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I'm skeptical that it's a lose wire, as the circuit appears to be triggered on the switch going to ground - book's in the garage, so I can't check at the moment.

Anyway, the sending unit is on the left side of the oil pan / block (IIRC) beside the side stand. It has a single wire going into it. Remove that, clean the contact and screw, and screw it back in. Be careful and don't screw too tight or you'll snap the screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, so I just checked it and what happened is that the sending unit wire was burnt onto the pipe at the bottom of the bike and now one of the square plasic blocks has been burnt. I'm not sure how I'm going to fix this.

If I have to ride with this problem, it won't acutally damage anything, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here are the two square blocks I'm talking about. As you can see the one on the right is burnt.




Here is where the wire was burnt on (the black spot).



Also where should I place the wire in the future so it does not get burnt off.
 

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Ok, three things -

1) In the last picture, you have the oil pressure sender unit captured perfectly. If the wire burn to the pipe is related to the sender unit wire, then your flashing makes sense - the wire touched the pipe which is (poorly, I'd imagine) grounded.

2) Are those two square blocks connected to the sending unit? Any more info about where they go will help - I don't remember seeing anything like them (although that doesn't mean anything!)

3) The sending unit can be disconnected fine. It'll just open the circuit, which causes the circuit to think the oil pressure is fine, as the sender goes to ground on a problem. The only problem is you won't be warned if oil pressure drops too low.

I'm impressed by the picture from that FZ20. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, so it is a bit hard to see but here it goes. The two square wires are both connected to the main wire, out of the main wire is a connection to the sender unit. There seems to be a ripped sheild around all of the wires.

Sorry for the image quality.
 

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From the picture it doesn't look like the two square wires are both connected to the same wire - just that they both go into the same bundle of wires (which, in turn, go eventually to the instrument cluster). It's likely that one goes to the oil pressure, and the other goes to the sidestand or neutral sensor.

According to the wiring diagram, the wire coming from the oil pressure switch is not connected to anything else (wire or otherwise) before the instrument cluster. This wire provides the ground path for the bulb to illuminate (it is connected to positive at all times while the engine is running).

For the time being, you can fix the problem with some electrical tape - insulate the burnt sections by wrapping each wire individually a few times around the melted portions. I don't recommend using electrical tape as a long term solution - some heatshrink tubing (from radio shack or similar) would be much better, as the electrical tape can't stand up to the conditions (wet, hot).

You won't have a problem as long as those wires don't touch each other, or any grounded surface. Make sure the oil pressure light is obeying normal operating function - illuminated when the key is initially turned on, and off while the engine is running.

To prevent the problem in the future, either reroute the wires, use zip ties to hold the wires from hot objects, or both.

Those connectors won't be easily replaced without either getting the new harness from the plug back to wherever it terminates or cutting off the plug and soldering on your own new plug. If you can adequately insulate the plug with heat shrink tubing, then that would be sufficient. Given the shape of the plugs, however, this might be tricky.
 

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This might be a year difference (mine's a 93), but here's what it looks like under mine.

Notice, no connector visible for me. Three wires coming out of the bundle - oil pressure, and the two kickstand wires (kickstand closes the two wires when up rather than just going to ground).


[attachment deleted by admin]
 

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My oil light turns on at low idle. I've seen youtube vids of the EX500 idling fine at 1200rpm. But on my bike anything under 2000rpm and the light starts to flicker on. I have it running right now at a steady idle of 1500, but the oil light goes on. How can i fix this, I have plenty of oil in the bike and have never dropped it.
 

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dman007 said:
My oil light turns on at low idle. I've seen youtube vids of the EX500 idling fine at 1200rpm. But on my bike anything under 2000rpm and the light starts to flicker on. I have it running right now at a steady idle of 1500, but the oil light goes on. How can i fix this, I have plenty of oil in the bike and have never dropped it.
This in indicative of low oil pressure, at Idle the oil pump is not turning fast enough to supply the needs of the bearings. This could be because:

1 the oil pump is worn, Not very likely since it runs in oil they usually out last everything else

2 The bearings have increased their clearances and all the oil flow from the pump leaks through with out creating enough pressure to close the light.

3 Your using too thin an oil. What ever it might be of the above change your oil to a heaver Viscosity. or add some viscosity improver like STP.

Finally this condition is indicative of a well worn engine that is on it way to a very expensive failure.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
dman007 said:
My oil light turns on at low idle. I've seen youtube vids of the EX500 idling fine at 1200rpm. But on my bike anything under 2000rpm and the light starts to flicker on. I have it running right now at a steady idle of 1500, but the oil light goes on. How can i fix this, I have plenty of oil in the bike and have never dropped it.
This in indicative of low oil pressure, at Idle the oil pump is not turning fast enough to supply the needs of the bearings. This could be because:

1 the oil pump is worn, Not very likely since it runs in oil they usually out last everything else

2 The bearings have increased their clearances and all the oil flow from the pump leaks through with out creating enough pressure to close the light.

3 Your using too thin an oil. What ever it might be of the above change your oil to a heaver Viscosity. or add some viscosity improver like STP.

Finally this condition is indicative of a well worn engine that is on it way to a very expensive failure.

FOG
What that means, ladies and gentlemen, is that it's time to sell!
 

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dman007 said:
My oil light turns on at low idle. I've seen youtube vids of the EX500 idling fine at 1200rpm. But on my bike anything under 2000rpm and the light starts to flicker on. I have it running right now at a steady idle of 1500, but the oil light goes on. How can i fix this, I have plenty of oil in the bike and have never dropped it.

Just hope, you are using to thin a oil. just do a oil change it wont hurt any thing, try using a heaver oil. if that don't help, you are going to have to be spending some money, hope it all works out.
 
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