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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Screwing it out makes it richer. Screwing it in makes it leaner.
It seems to hang up a bit in the lower revs no matter which way I turn it. Seems to get better screwed out, but I’m 4 turns out on the left
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Screwed them each out 4 turns, got a few drops of water out the exhaust.🤣 idk anymore. It’s still kinda taking its time to get settled in the revs. Before all this, it had 2 holes in the air box and was 2 1/8 turns out on each one and the spark plugs looked good. Maybe I just need to go back to that?
 

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I've never heard anyone turning them out that far. I think it is best to do all other tune-up procedures before tuning the carbs. Probably should check valve clearances. Did you rebuild the carbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I've never heard anyone turning them out that far. I think it is best to do all other tune-up procedures before tuning the carbs. Probably should check valve clearances. Did you rebuild the carbs?
Valves were done 2000 miles ago they can’t be out of spec that quickly. I set the floats, replaced the float valve and bow gasket and cleaned the carb well. It seems it was hanging up because of the idle. It idles fine, is synced, and seems to run well, I’m just getting that weird popping no matter how many turns in or out. If I turn it 1 turn out I think it stops but that’s it
 

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Have you checked the fuel level?
 

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Valves were done 2000 miles ago they can’t be out of spec that quickly. I set the floats, replaced the float valve and bow gasket and cleaned the carb well. It seems it was hanging up because of the idle. It idles fine, is synced, and seems to run well, I’m just getting that weird popping no matter how many turns in or out. If I turn it 1 turn out I think it stops but that’s it
if you can't dial them in I would start looking at other causes like a vacuum leak O ring missing something like that.
or if it seems to be running ok, try it see how it rides.
if you got the mixture screws that far out without altering anything something is amiss.
if they were that far out it should have been chugging like a steam train and blowing fuel out of the exhaust. 1/2 a turn on those screws should make a big difference.
 

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That popping on decelering and low rpms...

Have you removed the PAIR valves or are they still on the head?
 

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Screwed them each out 4 turns
an extreme setting compensating for lean fuel delivery. I'd submit your carbs are not quite as clean as you'd like them to be.
 
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Pair is still on there. I dialed back the screws a bit. They’re between 2 and 3 out now. It’s just that popping that’s weird to me. You’d swear there’s nothing wrong with how it runs except for that popping. Doesn’t do it on the right no matter how much I turn that screw. The carbs weren’t really dirty to begin with, just took them off because it wasn’t running as great, really probably more of a tuning thing from the beginning. There seems to potentially be an air leak from the air box diaphragm? Can feel some air from there, I’m guessing that could do it. Don’t really know how to fix that though. Popping is lean right?
 

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Okay, on one of mine I experienced several throttle related problems, and spent some time chasing valve adjustments, spark plug gaps, and all the fundamental stuff. Then I noticed a poor connection between one of the air tubes (the connection between the carb and air box) where the tube met the airbox, there was a small gap, and on the other side the tube did not fit the outside of the carb perfectly, slight gap. When I replaced both air tubes, and remedied the gaps, all throttle problems ceased, started easier and ran excellent. I don't know why, but these particular model bikes seem especially sensitive to air leaks not only on the manifold side of the carbs, but on the airbox side as well. Suggest you work on sealing all surfaces in the intake tract, especially at the air tubes.
 

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Ok guys. so #54 posts to finally get somewhere, which is Kinda back to where it started too much air causing a weak mixture uneven running and popping in the exhaust, 4 turns out on the mixture screws sort of confirms it.
my advice remove the PAIR system block all the holes (including the big ones in the air box) and start over.

like @haybaler I had an issue and did a thread on it about 2 years ago popping in the exhaust I could not get rid of and the right exhaust turning white hot. of course down to a weak mixture that side. eventually I fount a small split in the carb boot I had not noticed. changed the boots for new ones, no more issues. if you think about it, it's been the theme throughout this thread.
 

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Two separate problems?
PAIR valves on = popping on decel / low rpms
Air leak = poor running, lean mix
 

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the pair valve is a air leak . junk it

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Thanks for all the help guys! Next time I’m free is Friday or Saturday, I will look into PAIR removal and the carb connections to the air box and report back!
 

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Imo,
Work w chasing air leaks before tearing apart your PAIR system. You'll need additonal items to block your new open ports and nipples once you remove the system.
You'll need block off plates for the valve cover, some rubber nipple caps, and electrical tape or a rubber plug to complete that job.
If chasing vacuum leaks, it does help to have them removed, but in this has I would just chase all my connections and make sure everything is on as far as it can go and clamps and metal clips are on as tight as they can do while checking for rips Or cracks in the rubber components
 
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