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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Due to several requests I have decided to offer these Solid Motor Mounts to any who wish them.

Fog's Solid Motor mounts.

These are solid aluminum pieces that replace the rubber mounts . They connect the motor solidlly to the frame to stiffen it. The motor becomes a stressed member of the frame.
Fitment requires partial removal of the engine from the frame, (to remove the left front mount).
New bolts are required that you obtain locally. Each mount is bolted only to it's individual engine mount point and the long through bolts are discarded.
$50.00 the set + $6.50 shipping to any US city 13 for Canada and Europe. Others ,ask.
Be advised an increase in vibration comes with these pcs.
 

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will these make a real difference in handling? it seems like the frame is pretty weak, so i would assume so, but im no expert. also, how much extra vibration will there be?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The only purpose for them is to stiffen the frame, any improvement in handling is predicated on whether your handling problem is frame stiffness related. It's imposable to predict any improvement if your riding on a flat tire ,for instances.
How much Vibes is another thing. I can't give you frequency and amplitude, but you will notice it. I got used to it on my race bikes but I only rode them for 20 min at a time.
FOG
 

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well, say i had cut front springs, better fork oil, and a sv650 shock resprung for my weight in the back. also properly inflated tires. would the increased frame stiffness do me any good? also, i think i remember you saying that the reason fork braces are no good on this bike is because the frame is too weak. would the solid mounts make a fork brace helpful? it sounds like the increased vibration wouldnt be too bad. i was thinking more along the lines of fairing mounting bolts working their way loose, wet battery having issues, etc. i actually like the stock level of vibration, and wouldnt mind some more, as long as the bike is fine with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I ran them on my race bikes because they seemed to help with the strong grip of the racing tires. Can't testify as to weather they would complement or complicate a fork brace. It had been my experience that it's very difficult to asses the improvement or not of a suspension change. Lap time is the way. Sometimes what feels good is not.
Another thing is ,you need to learn to ride a new change. That is a suspension or chassis change may require a technique change.'
You just have to test and test.

FOG
 
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Fog if you would be up for it would like to ride down one day, I am interested in this mod I am thinking one weekend in first part of June, just for the ride, I am only a couple hundred miles out.
 

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rv93 said:
well, say i had cut front springs, better fork oil, and a sv650 shock resprung for my weight in the back. also properly inflated tires. would the increased frame stiffness do me any good? also, i think i remember you saying that the reason fork braces are no good on this bike is because the frame is too weak. would the solid mounts make a fork brace helpful? it sounds like the increased vibration wouldnt be too bad. i was thinking more along the lines of fairing mounting bolts working their way loose, wet battery having issues, etc. i actually like the stock level of vibration, and wouldnt mind some more, as long as the bike is fine with it.
My coil brackets keep cracking on the race bike since I put the solid mounts on, but I am running at 10k rpms all the time with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
But can you claim any benefit? Like faster lap times? Other?

FOG
 
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FOG said:
We're always happy to have guests.
email me anytime

FOG
cool will let you know, sounds interestingly simple concept we used to put solid mounts on our mustang and we used to add a brace to stiff up the body some of them drag stangs would watch them shatter a moon roof in take off, points being I get the concept.
 

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Do you know the length of the bolts that are needed? I'm assuming they are still M10?

I would like to have them in hand to cut down on time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do you know the length of the bolts that are needed? I'm assuming they are still M10?

I would like to have them in hand to cut down on time.

You can find out yourself just measure to the inside end of the mounts and add a inch for the nuts. remember your replacing the long pinch bolt so just measure from the frame thru the engine only

FOG
 

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You can find out yourself just measure to the inside end of the mounts and add a inch for the nuts. remember your replacing the long pinch bolt so just measure from the frame thru the engine only

FOG
Okay, sounds easy enough to do, and it is.
 

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You can find out yourself just measure to the inside end of the mounts and add a inch for the nuts. remember your replacing the long pinch bolt so just measure from the frame thru the engine only

FOG
Don't want to over think this but what metal do you recommend for the new bolts? Aluminium, stainless steel - a specific quality or brand you'd use? I am saying this because Chinese Ebay bolts can be very crappy..

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just use automotive grade, out aircraft ones if you rich be sure to use nylock nuts

Fog
 

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Gotcha, thanks Fog. And quick one, is there a way to install these without taking the engine out the frame?

Looking at it it seems that... nope. Damn

The GPZ500 will wait until winter to get its new engine mounts if it is the case. ;-)
 

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- You can remove carbs/airbox, exhaust and radiator.

- Then support engine with jack.

- Remove all engine-mount bolts except for top-rear mount.

- Jack up engine about 10-degrees and you should have enough clearance to replace mounts.

Although by that point, you can have engine out in another 5-minutes. I prefer to hang engine from ceiling beams combined with jack from below. Then wiggle engine sideways out of frame.
 
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