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If you use the 10-32 National Fine thread, use a #21 drill size. The length of the screw doesn't need to be any longer than the wall thickness of the aluminum housing (don't forget to factor in the washer thickness).
 

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It's an adjustable valving orfice that allows dampning adjustments.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
It's an adjustable valving orfice that allows dampning adjustments.

FOG
Good write up, which emulator did you use? RaceTech, are their other options? Also, did you change out the springs?

Thanks,
Mark
 

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My service manual says: 10w20 SAE

1CC = 1mL
270 Milliliters = 0.5706116336965592 Pints

I hope that helps out. ;D
 

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My fork seals are leaking. :'( What are the odds of me getting this repair done without a factory service manual? Also, and more importantly, can someone familiar with the process make a quick list of necessary tools? Thanks a lot.
 

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catzor said:
My fork seals are leaking. :'( What are the odds of me getting this repair done without a factory service manual? Also, and more importantly, can someone familiar with the process make a quick list of necessary tools? Thanks a lot.
catzor - are you mechanically inclined? If your comfortable to remove your fork tubes, then follow the FOG write-up. A 2-arm gear puller works great to depress the internal plug to remove the c-clip. You can also view the exploded parts illustration on bikebandit.com You can reinstall the fork seal with a length of PVC pipe used as a seating tool.
 

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As an easier option to drilling and tapping drain holes in your fork tubes just buy a $1 turkey baster. Measure the distance from the tip of the turkey baster the desired height of the fork oil (e.i. 5.1 inches) and mark it on the baster with a marker. Slightly over fill the forks with oil, insert the turkey baster to the marked line and suck out the oil till you are sucking air with the fork leg full compressed and vert. Presto, you now have the exact amount of desired oil in the fork.
 

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hey guys, i'm new here.

kinda have a problem changing my seals, actually taking the fork apart, i took everything apart took one cilinder apart completely, having the problem with the second one it stuck, first one needed a little force to drive the old seal and bushing out, but the second one is just stuck there i tried to pull it apart with my father but no luck, i tried WD40 to eliminate the rust no go, then heating with propane torch nothing. don't even know what else to try. and yeah i'm not a small guy :) .

any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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Your screwed. What you got is it. if you can't do it, throw it away and get a new one. There is no magic bullet.

FOG
 

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Is there any topic with pics how to put oil in the forks? Or change the oil (i need just to add some more but don't know where and how :-[
 

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Any of the big guys here on the forums. Can you please take either a video(preferred) or at least detailed photos of the fork seal procedure. This will help all of us big time. And yes I am pipsqueak I just do not want to attempt this without pictures/video.
 

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Operaflute's little Kawi has leaking fork seals: Boo!
Someone has offered to fix it all for me: Yay! (I know you all just breathed a deep sigh of relief.)
Opera flute has been asked - "What weight oil do you want, and do you want progressive springs?"
Operaflute responded "uhhhhh"
How does EX500 respond?

Okay, stock oil is 10W20, any reason I'd want anything else? What about the springs?
 

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Operaflute weighs what? 100 lbs? Any where up to 140 your stock springs are good.

Oil at 20-30 wt OK
if you want to spend money get a set of emulators.

FOG
 

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Operaflute weighs what? 100 lbs? Any where up to 140 your stock springs are good.
115, I weigh! If another person were to ride it as well - guy, but not a giant guy - would I change my mind on this? Seemed to be fine up to this time, with occasional other (heavier) riders, 2-up, lots of luggage, whatever. but now is the time to ask!

Oil at 20-30 wt OK
Okay but not preferable?

Thank you!
 

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20 or 30W with stock spring and rods?, wont it be too slow on rebound, specially if cold, and harsh or even locked on compression, even in smallest bumps? i fitted, for street, 0.8 spring, 15W thick oil and emulators with springs 1/10 rate of normal RT yellow spring and with very little pre-load on them to start seeing the forks moving quickly but controlled, this almost past winter
 
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