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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought my first bike for my wife and I. It's a 06 500ex I got for $1200 from a coworker. Came with some known issues that have been fixed. After going to replace the spark plugs I realized the passenger side threads where stripped. I bought m10×1.25 helicoil but I must need m12×1.25 or something.

The short of it is can someone direct me to the proper size helicoil and the proper drill bit to use with it, please
 

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NGK DR9EA 12 x 1.25 is correct and 19mm in thread length. Helicoil kits should include drill, tap, all needed components. I gather you intend on doing this with head in place...do your internet homework on how to without dropping shreds in the chamber. Perhaps @fog will grace us his chosen method.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was hoping to leave the head in place and drop the exhaust to use a vacuum as a cleanup option but the problem is how deep the hole is. My drill is decent size and wont fit. I don't have the tools or know how to take the engine out or apart, nor do I have the money to pay a repair shop. Also, what size drill bit to drill it out with? 12 mm?
 

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Again, the correct Helicoil kit will contain all the correct tools involved. Do some internet research and homework to gather up info on various methods used. You are not the first, nor will be the last to repair spark plug threads with the head in place.

I've replaced valve stem retainers on my Ducatis...used about 12" of small diameter rope (huh? rope?) pushed in through spark plug holes to displace the open combustion chamber area to prevent valves from dropping in as retainers were swapped over. Methods and "workarounds" exist, just gotta research and find the method that best meets your abilities and resources in your particular application. Hey, whatever it takes, and in doing so...ya learn.
 

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A couple of additional notes:

1. While its always best to not drop chips down into the combustion chamber, dropping a few is inevitable but not the end of the world because they are soft aluminum and relatively harmless. Greasing both the drill bit and the tap beforehand will capture the lion's share of chips before they fall. Compressed air (and some safety goggles!) are also your friend here.

2. Although it says "helicoil" on the package, the Sav-a-thread kit pictured above is actually a threaded insert, not a helicoil. Adding the helicoil name on the package just confuses things. In my opinion, a real helicoil is preferable to a threaded insert because the inserts have an annoying tendency to come out with the spark plug rather than stay in the head like a properly installed helicoil. Once you go with a threaded insert, you are committed because the damaged hole is now too large to use a helicoil.

3. As Ducatiman said above, helicoil kits typically include the drill size spec, the instructions, the special oversize tap, a few helicoils, and the insertion tool. The trickiest part is getting both the drill and the tap square to the hole.
 

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So. I did all the work and it seems to be pretty straight threaded and well done but now it wont start and it blows smoke. I'll check the spark plug to see if its kissing the piston. Maybe it's running so rich it can't ignite? Idk how to adjust air/fuel ratio on the carbs either. Any ideas from more experienced people?
 

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When was bike last able to run? Previous to your acquisition?

I'd suggest checking oil level (overfilled, contaminated with fuel?)
unscrew the large circle plug on the LH stator cover, assure the engine freely rotates using 14mm socket on end of crank, rotate clockwise direction only, spark plugs removed. Make sure no noises, free to go 'round.
Assure this is ok, then progress from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It ran fine when I bought it last month. 70mph on the highway no problem. Slowly got worse running as time went on. Ran till I took it apart 2 weeks ago

I myself changed the oil and filter a few days ago when I replaced the cracked oil pan and leaking stator cover gasket
 

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that clarifies the situation somewhat. Won't start now? You've assured spark? "Serviced" the spark plug caps?
Blowing smoke during start attempts? Battery is up to the task of cranking?
What do the plugs look like now? Fuel saturated? black? oily?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Spark plugs and boots are new and the gap is good on both. Ran on one cylinder with the other out and showing spark. Battery was new but I've been cranking it over a while and it doesn't like it anymore. Spark plugs had a little film of black but didn't seem oily. Was throwing white smoke during start up, run for 5 sec. and die
 

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Is the petcock confirmed operational, delivering fuel to carbs? White smoke may be exhaust burning off condensation.
 

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Petcock seems to be working but I dont know a sure fire way to test it. Also the white smoke smells of unburnt fuel.

It's dark now so I can't try anything further today but it would start at a rough idle around 500-1000 rpms (no matter how I adjusted the idle speed) run for 5 or 10 seconds and die. I just did a carb rebuild kit but didn't change everything because it was my first time and I assumed some of the parts were for different bikes.
 

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beyond "seems to be" ....petcock needs to be confirmed working via monitoring flow while applying and ceasing vacuum.

fuel stink = unless convinced otherwise, thats evidence of a carb issue.

IMHO you need to now eliminate both of these fuel system suspects, then progress from there.

I'll yield and let other members offer their thoughts.
 

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. I just did a carb rebuild kit but didn't change everything because it was my first time and I assumed some of the parts were for different bikes.
Did you do this before or after it wouldn't start? You may be adding more problems on top of each other. Lots of posts on here for people try to clean thier carbs and then it won't start (that's one reason I had a pro do it, thanks again @ducatiman !)
 

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"So. I did all the work and it seems to be pretty straight threaded and well done but now it wont start and it blows smoke."

Please clarify time sequence. It ran fine, then "Slowly got worse running as time went on. Ran till I took it apart 2 weeks ago", then you put in helicoil with engine installed, then "won't start..." ??
If that's correct, suggest compression and/or leakdown test to see if anything is stopping a valve from closing.

If comp/leakdown is Okay, then follow the above suggestions to check spark and fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got the kit before because it was running very poorly. A friend with many years of riding and working experience said it was probably a carb issue as the bike had sat for 12 to 18 months without being run. I figured that if I had the carbs already off i could rebuild them/check for problems with the floats and learn about the bikes interworkings at the same time. Nothing wrong with having someone else do it but i like to have the experience and knowledge myself. I worked off diagrams from kawasaki, one side at a time. I did have a few parts that remained but didn't think there would be a problem as it only has 5300 miles on it. Has be laid down hard once before though so idk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also to clarify.
1. I purchased the bike a month ago after watching the seller and a knowledgeable friend ride it and give me the all good. Had my friend ride it home a full hour on tight turns and highways with no problems in turning, braking, or acceleration. Only thing he said after was that it rode and smelled like it was too rich a mixture
2. For a week or 2 after the purchase date I and my wife would practice (first motorcycle) and noticed that the bike would idle poorly and get bad mileage. Gummed up maybe
3. Finally got out on the road 2 weeks ago and the bike wouldn't do anything past 50 on level ground in any gear.
4. My rebuild kit and oil pan arrived then so I set to it, deciding to change the plugs while I was at it. Then I discovered the cross threading in the right spark plug hole. Tried chasing them but no use. Now I'm in this situation.
 
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