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New key that locksmith made for me works for ignition but not fuel cap. Bike is from 2009. Lost they key that came with the bike a few days ago at the beach, and after some research, asked a locksmith to come out, pick the fuel cap to create a new key. I'm not sure if there's a code below the fuel cap or if he made the key manually off the impressions, but the key he made only works for the ignition and it doesn't even go in smoothly. Thankfully I had enough gas to get the bike home but now I have a key that works on the ignition and not fuel cap. What should I do? Thanks in advance for your help.

Per my additional research, looks like I can find the code behind the helmet lock but hoping I dont need to hack it off...

The seller who I bought the bike from 2 weeks ago found some spare keys but they also only work on the ignition and not the fuel cap.
 

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How long have you owned the bike? Have you ever had to put gas in the tank? Did the ignition key operate the gas cap?

Does the PO know whether separate keys were needed for the gas cap?
 

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Hi, the key that the PO gave me worked for the ignition and the fuel cap, but I lost that key at the beach. The spare keys only works with the ignition, seat, and helmet lock just not fuel cap so I'm scratching my head wondering what the problem is.
 

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Just a thought: spray WD40 through the keyhole and around the key barrel at the gas cap. It happens to my bike that some times when it sits for two or three weeks the gas cap gets dry and its hard to open. I just put a drop of WD40 or light oil and voila, it opens easy. Remember to push down the gas cap when turn the key to release pressure over the locking mechanism.
 

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The best lubricate for a lock cylinder is dry graphite.
 
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Another option...remove the helmet lock, the key code stamped on the backside. Have a key made by *correct code*, perhaps that will work in all devices.

I'm not a locksmith by any means...but perhaps there are subtle differences between keys that will "work" in one, and actual, correct cut- to-code keys that work all devices.

Yet another option (hail Mary) ....If you have other spares that are not working the tank cap, submit 1 to a session on an actual grinding wheel type wire brush attachment...this *may* also remove any tiny burrs...enabling its use in the cap. Again, you're in a position here to go to extremes...give it a shot, nada to lose at this point.

Another long shot....insert key into cap...try pushing key in (down) while turning....also pulling key out just a hair before turning. These methods *could* compensate for very subtle differences in "cuts".

Thats all I got. Good luck with it.
 

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Since you have a key which will open the helmet lock, then remove the helmet lock. The phillips head screw behind it has blue locktite, so it's a good idea to hit it with some heat. It won't take a lot, but if you don't, there's a good chance you'll strip out the head. The code will be on the back side of the lock body, no need to hack anything apart. Bring that lock, the key which work with it, and know the year, make and model. A good locksmith shouldn't charge you any more than 30 bucks or so to code cut a perfect key. If that is still not working in the cap, then you need to lube up the cap. Remember to push down on the cap when turning the key, this gets the pressure of the lock mechanism and allows it to turn easier.
 

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If thats the case, good time to disassemble, clean and lube the entire inner locking linkage mechanism under the 2 screws/cover. I'd go so far as to buff out the actual locking lip, thus eliminating need for aggressive pushing on cap to release. It should be near effortless.

And the 2 vent flapper valves could be conveniently "lost" if present as well. You are *right there*, after all.
 

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Problem solved! Was able to open fuel cap but had to push down VERY hard. Thanks for everyone's help.
You're welcome! As @ducatiman says, its a good idea to disassembly, clean and lubricate (graphite powder as @bpe suggest) the gas cap. Don't forget to remove the orange discs.

Saludos!
 

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So I used to buy key blanks and sell them at myrtle beach black week with an inverter and a small key cutter sometimes positioning the key so that teeth got cut slightly more or slightly less would usually result on more or less of the locks working consider making a few copies bigger smaller and then try filing/wire brushing new key s till one works on all locks. Sometimes a few swipes of the file on the tip would make everything perfect. Good job! figuring it out. Nice idea with coding form helmet lock code. I am not a lock smith but I did fix a lot of issues with persistence and intuition form cutting so many bike keys.
 

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take it off, go to your local keysmith, he can replace the internals to match your new key, or make you another key that will fit in the original cap
I believe the problem is solved but just as a matter of interest, how would you remove the cap if it didnt open?
 

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I believe the problem is solved but just as a matter of interest, how would you remove the cap if it didnt open?
That's an excellent question which I coincidentally will be finding the answer to soon. Long story short, one of my spare fuel tanks still has the cap on it but no key. The tank is in good shape so I'd like to remove the cap without screwing up the tank. If I can get the cap out in a way which allows it to be reused, that will be useful knowledge even if this particular cap is rather useless to me.
 
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Better Math

The tank is in good shape so I'd like to remove the cap without screwing up the tank. If I can get the cap out in a way which allows it to be reused, that will be useful knowledge even if this particular cap is rather useless to me.
This would be great. Technically there already is info on the site on how to do this. The problem is that the math is not accurate enough. It looks to me that there is about a 3mm-5mm margin of error on where to drill the hole to go through the hidden security screw. If it were possible to get that down to 1mm or less that would be great.
My opinion:
If you get that location it needs to be triangulated with 2 reference points. Using center of holes as reference points (not just holes themselves). The 1 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 3 o'clock rock may work for Bill Haley, but it's not very accurate here.
An idea:
Take a cap and remove the key latch to make the top of it flat. Turn it upside down and drill from the back side through where the security screw is. Since you would want to drill perfectly straight down, if you could do it on a drill press would be best. I think that may get what we're looking for.
 
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