Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought I'd share here what I've done so far on my bike.
Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive tire

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting

Wheel Tire Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive lighting
this is a 97 ex500d. I bought it fb market place for 300 dollars. It did not run. I found some 08 ninja 250 fairings for 35 dollars on Craigslist so drilled and tapped the iron frame and bolted some 1x1x1/8" square aluminum tubing to the frame then bolted the fairings to the tube (sides). for the front I just drilled and tapped the frame and the 08 fairings sit flush next to the radiator. As far as the headlight subframe I did not want to spend the 150 for a 97 light bracket frame so I welded some boxes onto the frame in steel and the aluminum square tubing is inserted into the boxes about 2 inches and held tight by grade 8 bolts. Then I connected the catch behind the bolts for the rear view mirrors/headlight with some stainless steel 1/2 by 1/8" flat bar and triangulated it to wrap around the aluminum square tubing. Once everything was together I drilled a hole through the steel and the aluminum and clamped it all together with a grade 8 bolt.

I decided I didn't like the way the exhaust looked so I used an old aftermarket pypes resonator that was for my mustang (turbo now so not needed) and I welded in (2) 1 1/2" peices of pipe and closed off around the sides so it would silence/provide some back pressure to imitate the stock exhaust and not need to rejet the carbs accordingly.

I decided I wanted a moto gp style hump instead of a back seat so I shaped some 2 part foam and fiberglassed over it to imitate the Ducati style turn down instead of pointing up.

I tried my hand at an acrylic brake light LED apparatus that came out great in the beginning but then I dropped it remaking the tail and now it's all broken and half missing and looks pretty crappy but I'm just gonna leave it because I'm tired of fiberglassing on this bike.

Rode it yesterday and the there is fuel leaking from around the carbs so I'm gonna have to pull the tank and see what's going on there but overall a surprisingly reliable bike! Hence why I keep doing stuff to it.

I want to give it a fancy nancy glossy paint job and either sell it or just enjoy it.

Maybe I'll add a wideband and turbo or throw nitrous at it but honestly I'll probably just buy a liter 1k
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,340 Posts
A substantial makeover. Is there enough clearance between the front fender and the fairing when the forks are compressed? It looks close.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A substantial makeover. Is there enough clearance between the front fender and the fairing when the forks are compressed? It looks close.

No. On full compress it hits. Granted it's only for a split second. First time I rode it after I got back the tip of the fender had melted plastic all over the front. I peeled it off and recently I hit again (just barely going slow getting on to my grass) and when I got back I went to peel off some more burgers of burnt plastic but there was none. Sticking my fingers in there led me to assume I've mostly self clearanced it at this point. (The fender itself has a rake so the front is closer to the tire than the back.) Luckily it has not deformed where the eye can see, only under it took away some of the support bones material that criss cross. I weigh 215 ibs*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle

Screenshot Font Communication Device Electronic device Technology
here's how it was when I bought it.

I cleaned/replaced a ripped diaphragm on the carbs put new fuel and vacuum lines. Got used master cylinders front and rear (got calipers to work forcing new fluid with those). Bought brand new pads. Grinded rust of the center of the rotors greased the axle. Soaked the chain in penetrating oil. Put a new to me used wire harness. Greased the inside of the cable sheaths with penetrating fluid. Tank had rust so I filled it to the brim with white vinegar and turned it every 6 hours for 1 week. Then I put a half a box of baking soda for a day turning and shaking it every few hours to neutralize the acid. Then I used red kote tank sealer. New battery and a locksmith for a new key.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top