Check the starter button for corrosion. I chased a similar issue for a long time where sometimes the bike would start and sometimes the junction box would buzz/click. I was always able to push start it and had good lighting/running, so I assumed it was a charging issue. I replaced the battery with a new AGM, replaced the R/R with Ducatiman's MOSFET unit and I even went as far as replacing the junction box. After repeated searching though past posts I saw a common theme, almost always posted by FOG, to check the starter button. Finally cracked mine open one day, saw some lovely green corrosion, cleaned it up and haven't had a problem since. On the plus side I have a way more reliable R/R now...
Hit start button and junction box clicks
Got everything hooked up and when I hit start button the junction box just clicks any body got suggestions
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battery strength + condition also important factors here
Starter button sounds like a good idea.
Meanwhile, can you share what was done to stop blowing the main fuse?
Meanwhile, can you share what was done to stop blowing the main fuse?
I would try shorting out the two big wires on the solenoid, (with a screwdriver) to see if the starter operates (manually) if it does then the solenoid (or wiring) is probably faulty, I for one doubt the starter button is the issue as you can hear the relay clicking, it wouldn't click if the button was inoperable. the clicking is the relay in the fuse box that can only work if power is going through it and in order for this to happen the power has to be going through the button switch.
Got everything hooked up and when I hit start button the junction box just clicks any body got suggestions
Okay so what do you think is my problemI would try shorting out the two big wires on the solenoid, (with a screwdriver) to see if the starter operates (manually) if it does then the solenoid (or wiring) is probably faulty, I for one doubt the starter button is the issue as you can hear the relay clicking, it wouldn't click if the button was inoperable. the clicking is the relay in the fuse box that can only work if power is going through it and in order for this to happen the power has to be going through the button switch.
seriously !!!. I have no idea I'm not there but 6000miles away. in order to complete a repair, you have to do diagnostics to find the fault, this is a two way street.Okay so what do you think is my problem
you report a problem, members use their knowledge and advise you to use a set of tests to isolate the issue, in return you do the tests and report back with the results. from the information given it may be possible to work out the issue, or advise to do further tests. to narrow the fault even further. you report back with new results. and this continues until a resolution is found. this works 99.999% of the time.
without this two way communication finding a solution is just a lottery. like pick an answer at random and keep repeating until one finds the right one. those that try this approach either give up or find out it becomes expensive buying parts they don't need or doing it wrong and make the issue worse.
So in a (humorous) reply your main problem is not communicating with those trying to help,
Well really hadn't worked on it resent so I just told you what I now and sorry for wasting anyone's time this is my first time using something like thisseriously !!!. I have no idea I'm not there but 6000miles away. in order to complete a repair, you have to do diagnostics to find the fault, this is a two way street.
you report a problem, members use their knowledge and advise you to use a set of tests to isolate the issue, in return you do the tests and report back with the results. from the information given it may be possible to work out the issue, or advise to do further tests. to narrow the fault even further. you report back with new results. and this continues until a resolution is found. this works 99.999% of the time.
without this two way communication finding a solution is just a lottery. like pick an answer at random and keep repeating until one finds the right one. those that try this approach either give up or find out it becomes expensive buying parts they don't need or doing it wrong and make the issue worse.
So in a (humorous) reply your main problem is not communicating with those trying to help,
nobody is wasting anybody's time but surely you understand information is key to doing a repair constant guessing without feedback is just guessing. in my view your solenoid is stuck but without testing it. you will never know, the tests on the unit determine what to do next. or where else to look. goes to reason. if you are reluctant to do this (some are) it just makes thing harder and far more difficult. that's all.
This is what confounded me for so long because you are correct. Apparently my starter button was partially corroded enough that sometime I would get a good connection, sometimes not (maybe temperature, humidity, position of the stars in the sky...). All of the common wiring tests passed and shorting the starter worked, so I, wound up there. As usual, had I searched the archives better and earlier, and listened to FOG, I would have solved it with much less time and expense.I for one doubt the starter button is the issue as you can hear the relay clicking, it wouldn't click if the button was inoperable. the clicking is the relay in the fuse box that can only work if power is going through it and in order for this to happen the power has to be going through the button switch.
Regardless, it would be nice to know what happened when OP shorted his starter...
@kensei I agree with you, there is nothing more infuriating than a intermittent fault, as it seems to work when tested.
in your case I would have suggested the live wire solenoid test. and isolated the button wiring circuit.
I have a similar fault on the gen 2. most times it starts sometimes (when it feels like it) it doesn't, yet every test works out fine. now if (when it fails to start, note. usually in the middle of nowhere) I sit on the bike push the bars full lock left then right, back to straight. it starts every time.
obviously, there is a bad connection somewhere, but this is a modified bike with modified cut down electrics, and nonstock parts. until the day it fails to go at all and then the fault can be traced, I doubt being able to find it.
as for the OP and other newbie members, they really should realise that interaction with those trying to help would indeed save them a lot of time and expense, as many of the experienced (advisors) often say "if any of us were right there the bike would be running within 1 hour" but were not, are we, and just have to rely on information given to us, if that info is scant or non-existent there is very little we can do except just keep guessing.
often the original post is all we ever get so never know if we were able to help or not. it can get annoying at times.
and more important for them may decrease the replies they get next time they have a problem.
(mini) rant over. "have a nice day" everyone.
in your case I would have suggested the live wire solenoid test. and isolated the button wiring circuit.
I have a similar fault on the gen 2. most times it starts sometimes (when it feels like it) it doesn't, yet every test works out fine. now if (when it fails to start, note. usually in the middle of nowhere) I sit on the bike push the bars full lock left then right, back to straight. it starts every time.
obviously, there is a bad connection somewhere, but this is a modified bike with modified cut down electrics, and nonstock parts. until the day it fails to go at all and then the fault can be traced, I doubt being able to find it.
as for the OP and other newbie members, they really should realise that interaction with those trying to help would indeed save them a lot of time and expense, as many of the experienced (advisors) often say "if any of us were right there the bike would be running within 1 hour" but were not, are we, and just have to rely on information given to us, if that info is scant or non-existent there is very little we can do except just keep guessing.
often the original post is all we ever get so never know if we were able to help or not. it can get annoying at times.
and more important for them may decrease the replies they get next time they have a problem.
(mini) rant over. "have a nice day" everyone.
Amenmay decrease the replies they get next time they have a problem.
I've had the same issue, it was the battery in the end..
My bikes a 1998 model, so I am currently in the process of changing everything out for new stuff, such as the regulator, starter solenoid etc.. but this stumped me due to my battery (gel type) being on a Noco maintainer. It was after the cold snap we just had, I went in the shed to get my bike started up and just got the click from the starter solenoid. I've had similar issues previously after cold snaps, but usually it is fixed by a wiggle of a few wires, and a spray of wd40. Not this time! So checked everything using a multimeter, the battery wasn't fully charging through the Noco, and was showing just above 12v, which should be enough you would think to turn the bike over. Checked all the system to the starter solenoid, similar voltage all the way... Gave the battery a full charge up over night, thinking it may just be down due to the weather, but all it did the next day was a couple of cranks and then ran out of juice.
I tested how many volts it was getting on turn over and it was dropping down to around 8, so obviously not enough to get the starter to spin.
Now I've changed out the battery and starter solenoid for new it's starting with no issues.
Lesson's learned =
* just because the battery is on a maintainer doesn't mean it will keep the battery in 100%, the battery is about 4 years old, and is a summer rider bike so stays on a maintainer a hell of a lot of the time.
*12v on check multimeter check doesn't mean the battery is good, see what it does when you press the button. And follow it to the problem ie: start at the battery 👉, follow it to the next point 👉 starter solenoid, 👉 the solenoid has X2 in's and one out - power in from the battery - the starter button power in to connect the terminals then power out to the starter. 👉 The next points after that would of been check the voltage/amps at the starter motor, but obviously I didn't need it this time fortunately.
In the summer I'm doing a full strip down and overhaul of everything so will check all the connections to see if everything is good, bad, in tolerance etc.. as stated, it is a 98 model, original wiring, so things will obviously be weaker in areas.
You can buy stronger Lithium batteries that will give you better start power etc.. but also remember Lithium do not like the cold or heat, -5 they will break, and +20 you could end up with a fire 👀 so be warned 👍
My bikes a 1998 model, so I am currently in the process of changing everything out for new stuff, such as the regulator, starter solenoid etc.. but this stumped me due to my battery (gel type) being on a Noco maintainer. It was after the cold snap we just had, I went in the shed to get my bike started up and just got the click from the starter solenoid. I've had similar issues previously after cold snaps, but usually it is fixed by a wiggle of a few wires, and a spray of wd40. Not this time! So checked everything using a multimeter, the battery wasn't fully charging through the Noco, and was showing just above 12v, which should be enough you would think to turn the bike over. Checked all the system to the starter solenoid, similar voltage all the way... Gave the battery a full charge up over night, thinking it may just be down due to the weather, but all it did the next day was a couple of cranks and then ran out of juice.
I tested how many volts it was getting on turn over and it was dropping down to around 8, so obviously not enough to get the starter to spin.
Now I've changed out the battery and starter solenoid for new it's starting with no issues.
Lesson's learned =
* just because the battery is on a maintainer doesn't mean it will keep the battery in 100%, the battery is about 4 years old, and is a summer rider bike so stays on a maintainer a hell of a lot of the time.
*12v on check multimeter check doesn't mean the battery is good, see what it does when you press the button. And follow it to the problem ie: start at the battery 👉, follow it to the next point 👉 starter solenoid, 👉 the solenoid has X2 in's and one out - power in from the battery - the starter button power in to connect the terminals then power out to the starter. 👉 The next points after that would of been check the voltage/amps at the starter motor, but obviously I didn't need it this time fortunately.
In the summer I'm doing a full strip down and overhaul of everything so will check all the connections to see if everything is good, bad, in tolerance etc.. as stated, it is a 98 model, original wiring, so things will obviously be weaker in areas.
You can buy stronger Lithium batteries that will give you better start power etc.. but also remember Lithium do not like the cold or heat, -5 they will break, and +20 you could end up with a fire 👀 so be warned 👍
I'll submit you'd be better off removing the battery, bringing it indoors to warmer temps during winter storage period. Going into my 5th season on factory Yuasa AGM battery in my '19 Honda, normally get well over 5, even longer with lithium ion.just because the battery is on a maintainer doesn't mean it will keep the battery in 100%, the battery is about 4 years old, and is a summer rider bike so stays on a maintainer a hell of a lot of the time.
"Warming" a bike up (without riding it) during winter storage is counterproductive.....it simply promotes further condensation. It takes 10 or more miles of riding to fully bring oil to full temp thereby burning all traces of condensation.
I choose to end my season Dec 1, storing till end of March without starting or warming up, bikes fully winterized, covered with fuel tanks filled to top and stabilizer added....left till spring.
good point, just because your battery is on a tender doesn't mean it is fully charged, all the tender will do is stop it running flat due to natural wastage.
best option is the occasional deep charge over winter. remember the output of the charger needs to be calculated to battery size so 1amp charger will need at least +14 hours to fully charge. best option still remove it and store inside giving it the once a month top up.
as for lithium I just don't like them for older bikes/cars, it's funny stuff, volatile and dislikes being on a constant charge maybe newer bikes with sophisticated charge systems to prevent overcharging but a 25yo bike with a basic primitive charge system no thanks, fine on anything that gets fully/partially charged then run down to be charged again like an EV or power tools but sitting on a grenade or firework is not for me thanks.
I use gel batteries now less hassle the gen 1 is 8years old the gen 2, 5years old both still good but I look after them in a similar way to what @ducatiman does.
best option is the occasional deep charge over winter. remember the output of the charger needs to be calculated to battery size so 1amp charger will need at least +14 hours to fully charge. best option still remove it and store inside giving it the once a month top up.
as for lithium I just don't like them for older bikes/cars, it's funny stuff, volatile and dislikes being on a constant charge maybe newer bikes with sophisticated charge systems to prevent overcharging but a 25yo bike with a basic primitive charge system no thanks, fine on anything that gets fully/partially charged then run down to be charged again like an EV or power tools but sitting on a grenade or firework is not for me thanks.
I use gel batteries now less hassle the gen 1 is 8years old the gen 2, 5years old both still good but I look after them in a similar way to what @ducatiman does.
bingobest option still remove it and store inside giving it the once a month top up.
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