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Discussion Starter #1
Alright so when I first got my bike it was my first time putting it in a truck. At first I put the straps around the wires of the bake and stuff started to brake :mad:. So I got help and figured out how to do it right. Seems like I cracked the case and pulled the throttle wire cable thing out. I think my turn signals dont work anymore and is the choke suppose to be able to stay in place. Caued I pulled it down and it rose up on its own. Can you replace that case piece that is broken, and do you think its possible to that my turns signals are broken. Im not sure if I was doing it right. I havnt ridden the bike yet, it being stored at my friends house. This is kinda off topic but how much do you think a bike tune up cost, like for an oil change and carbs cleaned? Any way to tell if the carbs are dirty.





 

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It does not look that bad, if that is the only damage that was done. Your last picture show the threaded ends. They might be hooped. You might need a new one of those. Your Kawasaki dealer should have a replacement parts for this. Or you could try finding a motorcycle salvage place in your area. Or maybe even EBay.

What year is your EX.

As for the oil change and carbs to be cleaned. Grab yourself a Clymer " Service, Repair and Maintenance manual and do it yourself. You will save a handfull of cash. The dealers will charge you up to 65 dollars an hour plus part etc.

While your waiting for your replacement parts you can get a real hands on how to repair your bike. If your still not sure on the carbs have a buddy come over and go through the steps with you. Just take your time, and don't rush things. I am sure others will agree. Or provide more input for you.

This is a great site, to learn from others. Looking at the photo's, there are a few that have rebuilt their bikes from the ground up.

Good luck...
 

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The handlebars have been submitted to a mechanical stress too

In the top circle.

You'll have to change them and the controls :-\

The lever seems bent also

 

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idk if thats all the way locked out looks like enough clearance, needs a shot with less zoom though.

in the future use tie downs made for motorcycles and attach the to the grips only, and don't crank down all the way, because that would put too much stress on the forks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anyone know what that case piece is called thats cracked? How much do handle bars go for? Is it the whole handle bar, I did a quick ebay search and they sell like some handle bar, clip on, but i dont think that its. This sucks, I think the bike is still fully operational you think it would be safe to ride or not?
 

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Don't tie down off the grips eitheras you will damage the throttle side plactic sleeve.

Depending on what your transporting in, you can:

Trucks and trailers with suspension, tie down the front into a shoe or a corner, from the base of the stanchions not around the grips or any cables, and compress the front forks all the way. The rear should be fine without anything.

In a trailer with out suspension: Now you want the bike suspension to work to help dampen the loads and smoothe the ride so, Again fit the front wheel into a shoe or corner and tie around the top of the fork sliders leaving the bike free to dampen out the bumps again if you have done the front properly you should not need anything on the rear.

Resist using those Caynon Dancer things as they put too much strain on the bars and grips.

FOG
 

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Quentin said:
Anyone know what that case piece is called thats cracked? How much do handle bars go for? Is it the whole handle bar, I did a quick ebay search and they sell like some handle bar, clip on, but i dont think that its. This sucks, I think the bike is still fully operational you think it would be safe to ride or not?

Part 46091 is cracked : http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0448/handlebar/handlebar.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3440&parent=3280

A guy is selling an extra kit of handlebars in the for sale section, check it up

I think you only need to change 46003 from the previous link, but still check if 46012 is twisted like a banana, if its not, don't worry :)
 

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FOG said:
Don't tie down off the grips eitheras you will damage the throttle side plactic sleeve.

Depending on what your transporting in, you can:

Trucks and trailers with suspension, tie down the front into a shoe or a corner, from the base of the stanchions not around the grips or any cables, and compress the front forks all the way. The rear should be fine without anything.

In a trailer with out suspension: Now you want the bike suspension to work to help dampen the loads and smoothe the ride so, Again fit the front wheel into a shoe or corner and tie around the top of the fork sliders leaving the bike free to dampen out the bumps again if you have done the front properly you should not need anything on the rear.

Resist using those Caynon Dancer things as they put too much strain on the bars and grips.

FOG
they sportbike specific ratchet tie downs that are made to go on the grips I used them to transport my bike, then I left them on the trailor and my godzilla dog ate them. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the help guys and yea now I know the right way to tie one down. That case thing cost $100 which is kinda crazy for such a small piece, handal bar is like $30, and that other "holder handle" piece is $70. I will prolly get a new case soon, the rest prolly won't get fixed till late summer. Money is kinda tight right now and I still need to buy gear and insurance and figure out how to get a liscene since all the MSF are full.
 
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