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Discussion Starter #1
Since day one, I have a small exhaust leak on 1 pipe, where upper part meets pipes. I have 2in1 nexxus motad exhaust. On one pipe it has a bolt which you can tighten and that part of the slip on doesn't have a leak but other does. And there isn't any bolt to tighten. I can use clamp but that doesn't help.
Leak is not noticable that I can see the smoke or a black pipe around it but I can feel when i put the hand near the place where the slip on going into pipes. (Its whole 2in1 system from nexxus not only slip on).

I decided to use rtv silicone for the exhausts, cuz previous attempts failed when I was using pastas and cement etc. It holded a bit and I noticed less popping on deceleration. For the better performance etc. Im not sure. Is there any negative effect of that small leak, like less hp and such?

Today I was trying to remove exhaust and use the high temp rtv but the bolt which is holding the one pipe is rusted and rounded so I ll try another day...
 

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In the original mufflers there is a small hole where the muffler joins the exhaust pipe to drain any water that may enter due to rain. There is a little exhaust gas escaping there. This leak is probably due to the same thing, unless the leak is directly from the seal between the tube and the muffler.

It is difficult to give an answer without a reference image to know where exactly the leak is.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In the original mufflers there is a small hole where the muffler joins the exhaust pipe to drain any water that may enter due to rain. There is a little exhaust gas escaping there. This leak is probably due to the same thing, unless the leak is directly from the seal between the tube and the muffler.

It is difficult to give an answer without a reference image to know where exactly the leak is.
Ok here are the pics:

1.
This is the bolt on the 1st pipe that I cant unblot, for now, but on this one is fine I can't feel the leak.

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2.


On this one there is a slight leak. I wanted to slide it back a bit, put rtv and then slide it in and screw it and let it dry. Since I can't unbolt the screw from the 1st pipe I can't slide it out. But I can put rtv all around the leak, but that solution is kinda stupid and probably won't hold.

So, is that little leak a problem for any performance or just causing a little more popping on decel?
 

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It looks like you need something like this: Motorcycle Exhaust Pipe Escape Crush Gasket
 
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why worry about power loss now, you already gave some away when you fitted the pipe. that leak is fine until the thing falls off.

FOG
 
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It's nothing to worry about, but you can drastically reduce this leak by using a high tack high temp-resistant liquid copper gasket. Copper doesn't like to bond to steel so it won't seize. The RTV option shouldn't run any, but the K&W Copper Coat will run a bit. I purchased the K&W Copper Coat because it was the cheapest and I have had good results in the same application. Coat the header slip-on portion and the AM-exhaust coupler, then mount, torque, and burn-in. Hope this helps.

Jorge also makes a good point. Those carbon gaskets should be stuck in the stock mufflers. Copper Coat will not damage the carbon gaskets. If they can be used. Most AM mid-pipes do not require them.



Since day one, I have a small exhaust leak on 1 pipe, where upper part meets pipes. I have 2in1 nexxus motad exhaust. On one pipe it has a bolt which you can tighten and that part of the slip on doesn't have a leak but other does. And there isn't any bolt to tighten. I can use clamp but that doesn't help.
Leak is not noticable that I can see the smoke or a black pipe around it but I can feel when i put the hand near the place where the slip on going into pipes. (Its whole 2in1 system from nexxus not only slip on).

I decided to use rtv silicone for the exhausts, cuz previous attempts failed when I was using pastas and cement etc. It holded a bit and I noticed less popping on deceleration. For the better performance etc. Im not sure. Is there any negative effect of that small leak, like less hp and such?

Today I was trying to remove exhaust and use the high temp rtv but the bolt which is holding the one pipe is rusted and rounded so I ll try another day...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I managed something, for now its sealed. Sound is little deeper and slightly less noise but nothing important. Im interested will it be difference in a rpm range, cuz with this exhaust I get that power kick almost around 8k rpm. When I was sealing that leak long ago, like I noticed little better kick, but maybe its placebo, and I was 10kg lighter xD.

Will inform you if this will hold the temperature etc. cuz I just put the rtv around the edge of the pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
why worry about power loss now, you already gave some away when you fitted the pipe. that leak is fine until the thing falls off.

FOG
Never heard that aftermarket exhaust which is made for that specific model and few others, which is also lighter, will be worse than the stock. And it isn't some no name exhaust either.
But I guess you had the experience and the dyno before.

Also I didn't buy this exhaust it was fitted when it was imported here from Austria.
 

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hi. someone can shoot this down if incorrect (using memory only) but the Motad 2 into 1 designed for the GPZ/EX is in 3 pieces and made to be assembled on the bike in 3 stages.
first the right side header is put on (loosely but square to the head) then the can. this joint has no clip as it is a interference fit. (but does need assembly paste on the joint). then the left header (with clip) is fitted also with assembly paste. then all the fixings tightened up. lastly the bolt/clip on the left header to keep it all tight and square.

now this is fine for a first or second fixing but after it has ben off/on a few times the joints get slack and leak.
you have a couple of options after this.
thicker exhaust paste like GUMGUM.
wrap the joints with exhaust bandage.
cut slots in the can joints and use exhaust clips (not pipe clips) also with assembly paste.
or as I did (mine leaked quite badly) mark the joints take off the exhaust in one piece and without moving them weld/braze the joints. this is a last resort however as you have to then remove and refit the whole system. in one piece not easy on your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hi. someone can shoot this down if incorrect (using memory only) but the Motad 2 into 1 designed for the GPZ/EX is in 3 pieces and made to be assembled on the bike in 3 stages.
first the right side header is put on (loosely but square to the head) then the can. this joint has no clip as it is a interference fit. (but does need assembly paste on the joint). then the left header (with clip) is fitted also with assembly paste. then all the fixings tightened up. lastly the bolt/clip on the left header to keep it all tight and square.

now this is fine for a first or second fixing but after it has ben off/on a few times the joints get slack and leak.
you have a couple of options after this.
thicker exhaust paste like GUMGUM.
wrap the joints with exhaust bandage.
cut slots in the can joints and use exhaust clips (not pipe clips) also with assembly paste.
or as I did (mine leaked quite badly) mark the joints take off the exhaust in one piece and without moving them weld/braze the joints. this is a last resort however as you have to then remove and refit the whole system. in one piece not easy on your own.
If this wont hold, I will use some bandage for the exhausts, but for now it ok, Im doing that mostly cuz Im bored in this winter period :)
 

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yes that is exactly right. you will notice only the right tube attachment has a bolt on it the other (right one) has not these joints require assembly paste.
 

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I’m having a similar issue 😂. My stock mufflers have massive leaks around where the chrome starts on them.
 

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on the point of re fitting a used exhaust to avoid gas leaks. To accomplish this with a much battered are used pipe I made some greatly compressible exhaust gaskets fro 1/8 copper tube. I just wrapped several then around a suitable sized dowel the cut them into separate rings. I soldered the ends by=ut this proved un necessary.' these will seal even th grossest bent pipe

Fog
53560
 
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...sometimes, the ridged portion of a tin can cut up with scissors can work as a pipe shim...or clamped 'round, or tucked

goo and cements alone tend to blow out IME
 

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Wherever you are, mechanics use "anti-seize" compound. Aircraft mechanics especially. It will not only fill the gap (clean I.D and O.D. of pipes first!) but also ensure that you can take the unit apart later if necessary.

Second, you can Dremel (hacksaw) four equally-spaced 20-25mm long slots around the pipe which slips over. A SS clamp will then help to seal it up.

53642
 
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If your bike ever squirts an RTV doughnut out the back, you know the permenent fix.
 
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