FOG, I agree about elongating holes, you have to remove sprockets, and CCT before that. But what about when you already have them elongated and back in place? I ll describe: When I did measurement with degree wheel and dial gauge, and was not 100/105 degrees, I loosened cam sprocket bolts and removed CCT, then reposition sprockets, tightened bolts, put back CCT, and repeated measurement. I tried with CCT in place but sprockets didnt move (with bolts loose).FOG said:I always removed the sprockets from the cams out of the engine to elongate the holes. I suppose you could do it in the engine if you had to. Yes you will certainly need to remove the CCT in order to get slack in the chain to remove the sprockets, or the cams.
What if I remove CCT when readjusting cam sprockets, then put it back in when turning degree wheel. It takes longer, but what about accuracy? - this is the way I did it.FOG said:To move the cams relative to the sprockets leave the CCT in tension. loosen the bolts and turn the cams with a set of channel lock pliers,ot vise grips.
Perhaps degree wheel wasnt centred enough (wasnt bolted pricisely in the center of crankshaft) - could that cause non constant readings?FOG said:That should not happen, You may have the indicator poorly placed or you being inaccurate. I usually take the start point very soo after the valve starts to move the indicator then be sure I stop at a readable line, not between the lines on the Wheel . write down the reading. rotate in the same direction fully opening the valve then closing it again until the indicator arrives back at the exact point I stared at. No matter what points you use the lobe center should calculate the same .
Wasnt able to get it off with bare hands - since I dont have pneumatic pistol or other proper tools for removal, I ll just put back engine and other parts, test bike and see what will happen. In worst case I can drive to mechanic and he ll remove alternator.FOG said:OK the flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft on a taper and located radially by a woodruff key This key can and does get sheared. Pull the flywheel off to check. This is the ignition timing.
I ll do this on weekend. Till then one more question: I mentioned that I damaged internal thread, then expert repaired it, in the proces he removed flywheel which I later put back on - I was careful and I just dont see how could I shear woodroof key while puting flywheel back. Could it be that it was sheared before all this during normal riding? When I think about it, could that be one reason for non optimal (rough) engine runing?FOG said:yep thr last thread on the flywheel hub is there to use to jack the thing off the taper. You screw a 18X ??? right handed bolt it with a wrench a tight as you can ,then give it a solid bump with a heavy hammer the FW should pop off.