Well, I just replaced my chain and sprockets last night. I bought a chain breaker riveter off of eBay for $45 shipped and it worked like a charm. My bike has a little lover 18k miles on it and it still had the original chain and sprockets on it.
Old [email protected] Chain - had a tight spot and you could hear it go around (didn't ride the bike this past week because of it :'()
Not as bad as SoarAndEnvision's but still pretty bad.
Old front sprocket on the left...new sprocket on the right.
I replaced the chain with an RK x-ring chain and the sprockets are 16/41 JT steel sprockets. All in all, it cost about $140 for the chain, sprockets, and rivet master link and $45 for the tool ($185 total). That is $65 cheaper than the shop would have charged me to do it, and I have a chain breaker riveter for the next time I need to replace a chain! Sorry there aren't any picture of the new chain. I was just too excited to take it for a spin, and she rides like a completely different bike![/color]
Just finished replacing my chain night before last with an RK o-ring chain and 16/42 sprockets. Yes, I used a clip link, which I have personally NEVER seen a problem with, but I will be checking it on a regular basis and if it shows signs of wear, I'll replace with a rivet link.
Quick note about a 42T rear sprocket: it really woke up some low-end torque on this bike. I will probably take a hit in gas mileage, but IMO the performance gain is worth it.
On the writeup, since this is a sticky, I would suggest including something for the REST of us who have a rear drum brake instead of disk brakes. Taking mine off was a *****, but once I got it off the rest was exactly as according to the pics. MAKE SURE to thread lock those front sprocket bolts (use the blue!) per Clymer manual (and common sense).
On the writeup, since this is a sticky, I would suggest including something for the REST of us who have a rear drum brake instead of disk brakes. Taking mine off was a batch, but once I got it off the rest was exactly as according to the pics. MAKE SURE to thread lock those front sprocket bolts (use the blue!) per Clymer manual (and common sense).
The drum is held from spinning on the wheel by a bracket which is attached to the R side shock mount. My bolt was frozen in, and I wound up having to take a lot more off then I planned for. Before you start, make sure you have some type of penetrating lubricant (something stronger then WD-40) and the CORRECT sized wrench to avoid stripping the flats off the bolt which holds that bracket to the drum brake assembly. (I can put pictures up if anyone wants them)
Was there some pages wiped from this thread? I could have sworn there was an illustration of how to install safety wire on here. I went to the shop down the street and asked the guy for safety wire to put on my newly installed chain and he looked at me like I was crazy. Then he lost it even more when I told him I also planned to throw some RTV on there. This is of course while I await my back ordered rivet link.
No one there had ever heard of doing either of these. Weird
so I just got done with my new chain and sprockets tonight (my hands are still dirty as type this now) and this white gunk came with my chain and sprocket set, i assumed it was rtv so i put it on the masterlink clip. does anyone have any pics of either how to safety wire it or at least a picture of their safety wire... after reading this talk about breaking chains because of faulty clips i want to safety wire it... could some one post a pic to help me out?
This is a follow-up to a list of posts that I used to perform both the removal of Evaporative Emission Control System and subsequently the removal of the PAIR system.
(I did this in the reverse order which in hindsight I should not have done as I will explain later)
For California model...
I bought one of these kits about three weeks ago. Tonight I finally had some time in the garage to install it. First off, it's a very nicely done kit. I went ahead and bought the optional blockoff gaskets for an extra $5.00. The kits cost $26.00 including shipping. The kit is offered up for...
I've done it all but carbs and valves... they scare me the most, tbh... I can do it with a literal visual guide start to finish, is there anything like that here? I saw a few that linked to a dead url.
I believe my 500r needs a clearance because it takes a bit to start up (choke for 10 seconds...
Hey folks, I have purchased the pair delete kit but found some stuff unaddressed. When I see the underside of everyone else’s tank there appears less stuff in their PAIR system. Anyone know what it may be?
The following link is a microsoft powerpoint pdf for Mikuni CV carburetors found on a number of vintage Suzuki 4-cylinder motorcycles. excellent w good photos. Some of the principles are probably applicable to the Ninja 500, and the EX500 carburetors would be easier to do since there are only...
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