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Ignition problems after coolant change?

428 Views 26 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Waahson
I'm at work so there won't be pictures for a few hours, I just wanted to get this thread started asap.

I'll keep it simple:
Bike ran fine, sometimes took a little effort to start (figured this was carb/valve related)
Did a coolant change
Spilled a bit of water and antifreeze on the components near the fill hole
Changed air filter

Solenoid fuse blew
Installed new one
New one melted
Found a 30 amp fuse in place a 10 amp in the fuse box for the ignition, looks like the spare

Bike has power but the ignition is completely disconnected.

My old man helped me troubleshoot it the first time the fuse blew and he said the antifreeze spilling on the compenents in theory could technically cause that, but it's unlikely and would point towards a different issue.

Only thing I can think of is the turn signals came with a relay the previous owner never installed, so they blink really fast. I was recently told this is bad for the battery, but could it have caused the ignition to fail? The wire (brown and white) is in rough shape too and the fuse box stinks.

Sorry the post is sporadic and lacks pics/details. I'm in a rush and will share more when I get home.
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Yeah, that's the area I'm gonna be looking. I'm convinced it's something to do with the fan or thermostat wiring (which I'd figure is connected, I'd have to check). Since the fan has been acting weird as well. We have the replacement harness if all goes south.
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hi, when checking the electrics you will find 2 types of system. live ones and dead ones. or to put it another way systems that are always powered on (live) the circuit is completed when the switch connects the circuit to earth (return).
and systems that are always powered off (dead) until the circuit is completed by providing power (via a switch).
I'm pretty sure the cooling fan circuit is a live type that is to say power is always there to the fan and the temp sensitive rad switch controls the on /off this is why sometimes the fan will continue to run after you turn the engine off.
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The fan not running when the engine's off is why I figure there's an issue up there still. It was working in 40 degree weather, but hasn't been during 70 degree weather. Seemed odd lol.
yeah you could have an issue, yesterday after having to do a carb job (again) I pulled the completed bike outside and ran through two heat cycles, from cold on fast idle (1400rpm) it took 8mins 40 secs to reach 3/4 on the gauge.
fan came on ran for 3mins 20 secs to get the temp down to half. fan shut off. 5mins 10secs later temp back up to 3/4 fan comes on for 3mins 10 secs then shut off. all completely normal reduced idle to 1100rpm shut off bike to cool down 1min 10secs or so later (I had stopped timing it) fan came on (by it's self) and ran for just over half a min before stopping.
all within normal parameters. outside temp at the time 19 degrees C (66.3F).

edit. one other point, if I have to run the bikes inside the garage I put a 14in pedestal fan in front of it to force all the fumes outside. I have never seen either bike get hot enough so the fan come on while running the bikes this way so air flow through the rad has big effect on the engine cooling.
Everything seems good now. No gas or oil leaks, no smells, and the fan is working as it should. Oil was from the chain, I just missed a spot when I was cleaning the excess and it finally dripped it's way to the exhaust haha.

Time to get back to riding.
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Yeah that makes sense. I guess I just don't like the idea of an exposed wire being in my bike, even if it's not hot. A lack of knowledge is making me a bit timid, and electricity makes me nervous. I'd turn the bike off and take the keys out before touching anything metal when looking at the fuses, but my grandfather had his hands all over the frame and around the battery when troubleshooting.

I don't like being shocked haha. I'm a bit of a cautious individual.
12v system is nothing to worry about. You can literally grab both terminals at the same time and your good bro. Just don't cross the circuits with any metal objects/tools or anything and no damage will occur. But don't stress the electrical stuff. Its much easier and safer than you think. I used to be super sketch about any electrical and now I'm only scared of house electrical and these crazy ass hybrids/full electric with the big ol batteries were starting to see in Chrysler products. That's where safety concerns come in.
The suggestion of running a wire near the harness is probably the best idea with zip ties....could grab wire conduit if you dont like the visual of having the wire outside of the harness. But as long as both ends are properly weather protected they should be alright "exposed." Good luck and stay safe.

My bad didn't keep reading passed that quoted message until after responding quick. But as others said. Definitely always vigilant and make sure anything is ever a thought it could happen than its going to happen.
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Hello, I return with more cool news.

Bike's got a blown head gasket, probably. Puffing out white smoke like crazy, running super rich, and is already getting close to running low on coolant. Idk if there's more damage cause of it.

Might get a quote on a repair, idk. Hard part is finding someone who will work on this bike for anything other than $100/hr. Not sure it's worth it. I'd do it myself but I just don't have the time to learn how to do this right now, or the tools really.
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