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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well, I soldered in the resistor, 99.6ohms on the grey wire to the CDI. Still nothing, going to test the resistances of the CDI, see if they line up with the list bpe posted. If they do, I'm at such a damn loss.
 

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so where or what did you solder the resistor to. did you put it only on the grey wire like a jumper or to something else.
it's supposed to connect the grey wire to the brown wire so the cdi senses a resistance from the aux power feed. (brown)
the grey wire isn't powered so how would the cdi know there was any resistance on it.

like so.
54096
54097

in the photos above I was converting a gen 1 switch to run on a gen 2 so the yellow (which is a power wire on the gen 1) is effectively turned into the where the grey wire should be. (none powered) so the yellow has to be cut from the power feed from the switch. on the gen 2 this wire is the grey one (non powered) so is just a connection to the brown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Don't forget, I don't have keyed ignition so I don't have a brown wire etc, just the grey wire from switched power on the m.unit to the grey connection in the plug on the CDI, which is where I soldered it in. When I had a similar problem before, when everything was stock, I had 0 power via the grey wire. I cleaned up inside the bottom of the ignition switch and then the grey wire had power when the ignition was switched on and it fixed the issue. But the CDI is getting power via the grey wire, which of course has the resistance.

Anyway, I did the CDI resistance testing and came back with the following results:
1*******************************2******************************IN - IN
1*******************************3******************************IN - IN
1*******************************4******************************IN - IN
2*******************************1******************************IN - IN
2*******************************3******************************0~0.8 - .1 kOhms
2*******************************4******************************28~100 - IN
3*******************************1******************************IN - IN
3*******************************2******************************0~0.8 - .1 kOhms
3*******************************4******************************28~100 - IN
4*******************************1******************************IN - IN
4*******************************2******************************26~100 - IN
4*******************************3******************************26~100 - IN
5*******************************6******************************IN - IN
5*******************************7******************************IN - IN
5*******************************8******************************IN - IN
5*******************************9******************************IN - IN
5*******************************10*****************************IN - IN
5*******************************11*****************************IN - IN
5*******************************12*****************************IN - IN
6*******************************5******************************30~150 - IN
6*******************************7******************************24~90 - 73.6 kOhms
6*******************************8******************************19~80 - 70.5 kOhms
6*******************************9******************************30~150 - IN
6*******************************10*****************************45~300 - IN
6*******************************11*****************************IN - IN
6*******************************12*****************************15~60 - 67.5 kOhms
7*******************************5******************************6.5~26 - IN
7*******************************6*******************************7~28 - 73.8 kOhms
7*******************************8*******************************2~4.6 - 3.3 kOhms
7*******************************9*******************************6.5~26 - IN
7*******************************10******************************5.5~22 - IN
7*******************************11******************************IN - IN
7*******************************12******************************3.8~15 - 6.6 kOhms
8*******************************5*******************************3.8~16 - IN
8*******************************6*******************************4.4~18 - 70.5 kOhms
8*******************************7*******************************1.8~7.5 - 3.3 kOhms
8*******************************9*******************************3.8~16 - IN
8*******************************10******************************2.8~11 - IN
8*******************************11******************************IN - IN
8*******************************12******************************1.8~7.5 - 3.3 kOhms
9*******************************5*******************************IN - IN
9*******************************6*******************************IN - IN
9*******************************7*******************************IN - 542 kOhms
9*******************************8*******************************IN - 537 kOhms
9*******************************10******************************IN - IN
9*******************************11******************************IN - IN
9*******************************12******************************IN - 533 kOhms
10******************************5*******************************IN - IN
10******************************6*******************************IN - IN
10******************************7*******************************IN - 530 kOhms
10******************************8*******************************IN - 523
10******************************9*******************************IN - IN
10******************************11******************************IN - IN
10******************************12******************************IN - 526 kOhms
11******************************5********************************IN - IN
11******************************6********************************IN - IN
11******************************7********************************IN - IN
11******************************8********************************IN - IN
11******************************9********************************IN - IN
11******************************10*******************************IN - IN
11******************************12*******************************IN - IN
12******************************5********************************1.4~5.5 -IN
12******************************6********************************1.6~6.5 - 67 kOhms
12******************************7********************************2~8 - 6.6 kOhms
12******************************8********************************1.6~6 - 3.4 kOhms
12******************************9********************************1.4~5.5 - IN
12******************************10*******************************5~20 - IN
12******************************11*******************************IN - IN
Seems to me, that it leads to the CDI being dead? Would I be correct in that assumption?
 

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That doesn't make sense. You're putting 2 different readings on every result. If you're taking the meter leads and reversing them to get the 2 different results, that would be wrong. Please clarify.
 

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Or I guess maybe you put up a copy of what I posted, and then put you're results to the right.
Is this the case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Or I guess maybe you put up a copy of what I posted, and then put you're results to the right.
Is this the case?
Yes, sorry. I copied what you posted, so what each test should read to the left, actual reading to the right.
 

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OK.
Clearly you have a lot of readings that are off. Manual states that if even 1 reading is off, the igniter needs to be replaced.

Edit:
Can you swing by yorkies house to borrow one of his known to be good CDI's. Just to further confirm?😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
OK.
Clearly you have a lot of readings that are off. Manual states that if even 1 reading is off, the igniter needs to be replaced.

Edit:
Can you swing by yorkies house to borrow one of his known to be good CDI's. Just to further confirm?😁
That's what I assumed to be honest. Haha, I wouldn't want to risk breaking it honestly. Will probably end up buying a replacement and hoping it will cure the problem.
 

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Just checked the UK ebay. Looks like it's not going to be cheap even for a used one.
 

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Yeah, that's what I saw. Then I checked the price for a new OEM, the used price does look pretty good compared to that. I think I would recheck results with a different multi-meter also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yeah, that's what I saw. Then I checked the price for a new OEM, the used price does look pretty good compared to that. I think I would recheck results with a different multi-meter also.
Yeah, £530 lmao. Unfortunately don't have access to another one at the moment, else that's definitely something I'd try.
 

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ok I give up. 🏁 just soldering the resistor to the grey wire will not override the tamper circuit whether it's powered or not.
part of the issue could be the powering of the wire via the m.unit .
part of the process of devising how to make a gen 1 switch work on a gen 2 was cutting the yellow wire (powered at the switch. just adding a resistor to the yellow wire and connecting it up to the connector (where it turned from yellow to grey) did not work !! the grey wire is part of a circuit and must be connected to the aux brown wire. if you do not have a brown wire your not completing the tamper circuit loop. could be part of the issue. by all means try another CDI but if you end up with the same result it's money down the toilet.
 

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I hate it when Yorkie gives up because he really gets how this ignition switch and tamper proof thing actually works.

I'm pretty sure it's just magic, but maybe we can puzzle it out without consulting the nearest Professor of Electrical Engineering.

In the "How To" the resistor is shown bridging between the yellow and brown wires. Now, on the Gen 2 it's not yellow, it's grey. But I think the same bridging concept may apply.
Maybe the resistor ends up running in parallel to the grey circuit and the brown circuit, though I don't know why. The brown circuit appears to go to the fusebox and the rect/reg,
and the grey wire goes only to the CDI box.

Would it work if he connected the resistor anywhere between the grey wire and the brown wire,
without interrupting or disturbing the connections for those wires?
 

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@haybaler. the fundamental misunderstanding is what the resistor does on the gen 2. simple as that.
it is not to reduce the resistance in just the grey wire. but to introduce resistance between the brown (aux wire) circuit and grey wire. that goes to the CDI) the CDI senses this difference and completes the aux circuit.
in theory you could put it anywhere between the two but the best place is close to the ignition switch (where Kawasaki put it) the brown aux wire doesn't go to the CDI on the gen 2 so you cannot fit it there as you said. and there is no grey wire where the brown wire goes. until the OP completes this circuit the bike will not spark. it's the whole idea of the anti theft device. if the bike thinks it's being hot wired modified or chops it won't run. simple. if the OP has no brown Aux wire on the bike to tap onto good luck.
 

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Right, the anti-theft does nothing when some joker hammers a screwdriver through the lock tumblers and turns on the switch and steals the bike,
but when a legitimate owner tries to make a few mods, "nonsense" is created. I hope you'll agree, that stinks!

I still think it's magic, but don't want to quit and say, "thanks for checking in, too bad your motor won't run, cheers!"

So, 2 ideas:

1. OP takes pictures of everything electrical, or provides diagram to show us exactly where he's at. Then we try to figure how to modify his setup to mimic the original OEM Kawasaki setup.
Sort of what I did with the last Kart guy, right? It only took about 95 messages + a bunch of pm's, back and forth before we heard that motor run!

OR

2. Recommend scrap the M Unit, plug in either a Gen2 keyed ignition switch for instant spark, or an aftermarket switch with Yorkie modification, pictured above.
Then the anti-theft stuff won't be blocking his progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well, I have a simple wiring diagram that I devised before starting to wire the bike, it was before I realised 100% what everything needed. I will update it and post it here when I'm done, hopefully between us we can work out what to do, although I do have an idea I will try. Going over the wiring diagram again, the brown wire does eventually end up at the CDI via the Fuse/Junc box and brown/white output, something I admit, I checked when I identified what each wire to the CDI does years ago as I have it written down. Obviously it's something I omitted to check recently. I will try adding a resistor to the wire that I have going to the brown/white connection on the CDI as that will clearly have the same resistance going through it also. I am not sure anything is going to work though as, at least by the readings I took, the CDI is dead as a door nail. But alas, I will give it a go anyway.
 

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I don't think the M Unit can mimic the original keyed ignition switch.

The original switch connects three wires, and the resistor that's soldered in parallel to two of those wires limits the voltage that runs down the grey wire to the CDI box.
The CDI box either senses that correct voltage, or opens a gate based on that voltage, and spark!
So far, that's my limited understanding of what happens, could be right,, could be wrong, dunno!

Maybe the following will help the OP re-work the system he has to match the same effect:

54101


That's a 2003 Kawasaki EX500, GEN2, more or less stock.
Key on: battery voltage is about 12.5 volts; voltage at the grey wire as it enters the CDI box is 5.85 volts.

So, I guess the resistor installed in parallel to the two ignition switch wires reduces the grey wire voltage by about half.
I don't know if there's another way to accomplish the same effect, maybe OP can puzzle it out.
Otherwise, I suggest you send this query to a high school Electronics class and ask them.

When you get it sorted, let us know, Cheers!
 
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