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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
I don't think the M Unit can mimic the original keyed ignition switch.

The original switch connects three wires, and the resistor that's soldered in parallel to two of those wires limits the voltage that runs down the grey wire to the CDI box.
The CDI box either senses that correct voltage, or opens a gate based on that voltage, and spark!
So far, that's my limited understanding of what happens, could be right,, could be wrong, dunno!

Maybe the following will help the OP re-work the system he has to match the same effect:

View attachment 54101

That's a 2003 Kawasaki EX500, GEN2, more or less stock.
Key on: battery voltage is about 12.5 volts; voltage at the grey wire as it enters the CDI box is 5.85 volts.

So, I guess the resistor installed in parallel to the two ignition switch wires reduces the grey wire voltage by about half.
I don't know if there's another way to accomplish the same effect, maybe OP can puzzle it out.
Otherwise, I suggest you send this query to a high school Electronics class and ask them.

When you get it sorted, let us know, Cheers!
Yes, I remember now, that when I had the spark problem before, when everything was stock, the grey wire was only pumping out 5.5-6v or so. Maybe I need to have one wire carrying the 12v going in to the resistor, which acts as a voltage divider and the two wires coming off share the voltage? Will speak to my Dad (he knows a bit about electrical stuff) and see if that's a logical train of thought. Would you be able to check the voltage of the Brown/White wire going in as well? Just out of curiosity.
EDIT: He said he thinks that idea will work. + Crude picture to show what I mean in the above explanation.
7c814bfaabafeeff9734ed39baf99414.png
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
So, as it turns out, it was never as simple as adding resistors to the two ignition wires. There's also 4 resistors relative to the ignition circuit in the junction box, which of course, I've taken out of the equation, so all of the voltages going in to the CDI are skewed. So now I have to decide whether I want to try and **** with trying to work out what they're for etc, or just go about wiring the junction box back in with just the things relevant to the ignition circuit. Yikes.
 

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So, as it turns out, it was never as simple as adding resistors to the two ignition wires. There's also 4 resistors relative to the ignition circuit in the junction box.
oh. yeah I forgot about those !! although if you look at schematic you will find some of them are one way diodes not resistors. if your any good with circuit boards and soldering shouldn't be that difficult to make something up use the diagram to split the power circuits but you will still need the plain brown AUX wire (or whatever colour you choose) to feed brown/white sub circuit, if the diagram shows diodes you need diodes not resistors so it doesn't suffer from reverse current loop back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
oh. yeah I forgot about those !! although if you look at schematic you will find some of them are one way diodes not resistors. if your any good with circuit boards and soldering shouldn't be that difficult to make something up use the diagram to split the power circuits but you will still need the plain brown AUX wire (or whatever colour you choose) to feed brown/white sub circuit, if the diagram shows diodes you need diodes not resistors so it doesn't suffer from reverse current loop back.
I rewired the fuse box back in to the harness, so I didn't have to work everything out. But alas, I can't quite figure out how to get it to work properly. With some time I'll get it sorted. But I'm a little too frustrated to do it right now.
 

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yeah I'm afraid that's a problem when you start doing modifications. you do one then find it doesn't quite work as you wished or you need a second modification in order to make the first one work. then later need a 3rd to tie the other two in. and so on infinitum.
when I chopped the cruiser wiring my method was to use a 2mtr X 1mtr plywood board placed all the components I wanted on it in roughly the right place they were going on the bike then stripped the main harness and rewired all the bits together, chopping out all the stuff I didn't want or need.
while keeping as many of the original connectors to the components as possible just re pinning where required. of course it was easier as I kept the original controls ignition switch and fuse box just reworked them a bit.
still managed to reduce the spaghetti by 40% though. and each system is independent but joined where it needs to be.
if a get a fault (and there were a few early on) I knew exactly where to look. keep going you will get there in the end.
you just may have to re think your original plans a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I think I was a little too ambitious for my first full on project to be honest. Yeah, exactly that. I'm going to get another harness, shrink it down a bit as I've cut the subframe off and currently in the process of making a much shorter one, then try and get the other one working over time, I'm sure I'll get there eventually. With hindsight I should've used as much of the stock harness as necessary and gotten rid of the stuff I didn't need/want in there. Ah well, live and learn haha. I'm sure this thread will be revisited at some point when I get back to looking at it again haha.
 

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Okay, so we learn, but here's one more thought before you throw in the towel.

The problem is the designer of the M-switch thing couldn't anticipate all the permutations of electrical systems,
and certainly never thought of the intricate EX500 system. So, yeah, you can put
that thing away and back up to a mostly original EX500 setup,

OR

Replace the CDI Ignitor with a not so intricate system. Somewhere in the forum, someone has a list of aftermarket
ignitor boxes available for the EX500. Maybe one of those would work with the M-Thing and your wiring setup.

...just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Okay, so we learn, but here's one more thought before you throw in the towel.

The problem is the designer of the M-switch thing couldn't anticipate all the permutations of electrical systems,
and certainly never thought of the intricate EX500 system. So, yeah, you can put
that thing away and back up to a mostly original EX500 setup,

OR

Replace the CDI Ignitor with a not so intricate system. Somewhere in the forum, someone has a list of aftermarket
ignitor boxes available for the EX500. Maybe one of those would work with the M-Thing and your wiring setup.

...just a thought.
Been thinking about possibly hybridising the two, have the m.unit control all the lights etc and use everything Kawasaki for the ignition system and such. Just a thought I had whilst trying to get to sleep 😂
 

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interesting. yeah could work. when I was building the cruiser I wanted a fat 5 spoked rear wheel. and after along search found one off a GTX 1000. when it arrived I tried the fit and realised a problem the spindle was 6mm bigger and wouldn't fit the swingarm. after cursing a bit for my stupid-ness for not checking earlier started looking for another wheel.
while searching I found a firm that supplied bearings and oil seals of any size. just needed the inner and outer measurements. hey presto solution found. once i made new spacers for it.
ok so it's not related to your issue but it does illustrate when modifying stuff thinking outside the box offers rewards. and sometimes the answer is right in front of you only you hadn't seen it yet.
oh and the wheel is perfect only the wallet took a hit when I bought a new tyre for it :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Cheers for that buddy. Gonna try the Ignitech TCIP4, as it's the one the guy in the thread bought and said it worked well. Hopefully it'll work with my custom harness and won't have to bugger about too much when it arrives.

interesting. yeah could work. when I was building the cruiser I wanted a fat 5 spoked rear wheel. and after along search found one off a GTX 1000. when it arrived I tried the fit and realised a problem the spindle was 6mm bigger and wouldn't fit the swingarm. after cursing a bit for my stupid-ness for not checking earlier started looking for another wheel.
while searching I found a firm that supplied bearings and oil seals of any size. just needed the inner and outer measurements. hey presto solution found. once i made new spacers for it.
ok so it's not related to your issue but it does illustrate when modifying stuff thinking outside the box offers rewards. and sometimes the answer is right in front of you only you hadn't seen it yet.
oh and the wheel is perfect only the wallet took a hit when I bought a new tyre for it :(
Yeah, I've made mods to bikes in the past, never go to plan. I just never thought that it'd go tits up this badly haha. Any pics of the cruiser? Sounds wicked!
 

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here you go !. one or two mods to it. this is how it sits now. of course it's a project so keeps changing yearly as things are found that work better. guess it will never be finished. but that's the nature of projects I guess.
54146
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54148
 

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Following @yorkie advice, I chose the ER-5 gauge set, just swapped out the gauge harness from the EX, and:

54149


Used the ER-5 headlight bracket; still working on including the temp gauge, but otherwise pretty nice mod.
Waiting for modified top triple clamp at machinist shop-adding standard handlebar clamps.
 

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it is easy mate when you have done so much already. the tricky part is swapping the gauge harness over. you have done that. pull apart the old clock set, remove the screws that hold the temp gauge. put on one side. then remove the fuel gauge from the ER clock set in a similar manner replace the temp gauge using the original screws. (ER) wire up the temp gauge in the configuration for the EX. and replace the cowl. your done.
of course it is now orientated horizontally and not vertically so reads right to left instead of down to up . but that's no big deal if it works and it does just fine.

edit .
depending on whether you got earlier or later ER clock set you may have to trim the case a little. not much just enough so the cowl closes up tightly.
54151
 

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sure. shoot me a PM I will happily explain. don't really want to hijack this thread it's not about my bike. I just posted photos of it because the OP asked for them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Looks pretty damn good Yorkie. Same with yours Haybaler.
Decided to buy the Ignitech, ordered it last night, will be here next Tuesday. Sadly I'll have to wait to try it as I'll be working 😂. Such is life. Will get back to you when I get a chance to try it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
So, finally got the time to plug in the new TCI unit, after an initial hiccup due to the lack of side stand switch etc. I was however able to use the software to bypass that. Therefore, I now have spark! Need to plumb in the fuel pipes and such, but hopefully it'll be running in the next couple days. Ecstatic doesn't even come close to describing how I feel right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
So after all this buggering about, it started virtually instantly! Almost 3 years since it last ran, petrol that's over 2 years old (put it in the tank when I bought the replacement to keep it clean inside). There's probably not too many machines that'll do that, but the GPZ sure is one of them.
Wouldn't let me upload the video here, so here's a link for it. http://instagr.am/p/COn_71Tnq1F/
 
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