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Discussion Starter #1
Let's face it when you are trying to mod your bike and get on the road the same day but hit a speed bump because your part can't be used without further modification can really suck. Like many of you know this bike is for fun and is great for beginners and re-riders and I am a re-rider and trying to limit what I spend on this bike. I thought for those of you who want to use a stylish Sequential Flasher Led on their EX500R or Ninja 500r should know what you are really going to need.

First, select your new Sequential Flashing Led to your style and then find a flasher relay that will support Led Sequential Flashers. Today I was on a roll but hit a nasty speed bump. Last week I had already modded my rear fender to be virtually non-existent and moved my plate mount. Then my new flashers came today and I realized after running back and forth to Autozone and Advance Auto and trying things like load resistors, the fact is my new flashers somehow seem to have a built-in flashing circuit. They will flash if I simply connect the hot to the battery and have the turn signal switch to off. The stock signals will do no such thing because they are controlled by a relay that pulses their hot signal. That is how I troubleshot the problem. When the stock signals were connected directly to the battery they stayed on solid. I think what I need to do is find a replacement relay that will act as if I installed a momentary switch on my handlebars, (Fyi: modding your handlebar switches can be very time consuming and costly and could even for the beginner bike mechanic, render your bike useless.)

Do all Led flashers have a built in relay circuit? I noticed a thread here that seems to concur with this. Here it is LED Turn Signals

If I have misspoke and my terminologies and theories are incorrect, please correct me.
 

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I had some sequential LED turn signals that don't behave in the same way. When you connect them direct to a battery the LEDs will flow once until they are all lit and then they just stay lit. When I directly replaced my old indicators the 'flow rate' of the indicators was far too fast so I bought a variable indicator relay - there is a small screw adjuster on the side of the relay to set the speed of flashing. This also means you don't have to buy any ballast resistors for the LED indicators.
 

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For the heck of it, I bought some "flowing" LED signals. White DRLs in front that change into sequential yellow signals when you hit the switch. Switch off, they go back to white. Three wire that bolt on and wire right up. You can get a matching pair for the back that are red and yellow. Wire the red to either taillight or brakelight - your choice. As to flashers, I bought a bunch of adjustable rate LED flashers on eBay for just over $1 each. Unbelievable. So far, they work just fine on Big Red.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hugh, so I will try adjusting the screw on the current relay. I need to find whereabouts that is. My new led's don't cycle too fast, they don't light at all when connected to the grey and green signal wires. My left turn signal wires from bike are black with a yellow stripe (ground) and solid green (power). The right one from bike is black with a yellow stripe (ground) and solid grey (power). My new lights have 3 wires, black, red, yellow. The red wire is for the backside of the assembly which is a blue led, the yellow wire is for the side that faces traffic that is supposed to flash.
 

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My new lights have 3 wires, black, red, yellow. The red wire is for the backside of the assembly which is a blue led, the yellow wire is for the side that faces traffic that is supposed to flash.
Ignore the red wire until you get the indicators working but it should connect to the positive wire for the rear light.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. I am so used to ordering parts and just about anything online that I forget my town has a decent cycle shop. I called them and they happened to have a led relay. I got the rear turns installed and working now. Tomorrow I plan on doing the front ones. Some say you don't need to remove the front fairing but I bet that is if you are just wanting to get to the red connector. Don't you still have to remove the fairing to take off the old lights?
 

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If you are fairly dexterous, you should be able to remove them without taking the fairing off.
 

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With LEDs, you either look at the diagram that came with them (usually none), or you simply try the wires one-by-one, as they will not light with reversed polarity. IME, black, white and green might all be ground. Once you find the ground, wrap some electrical tape around the lead to signify ground.
 
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