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dragknee said:
RichDesmond said:
Maybe you haven't, and I haven't either. But I've seen enough chains come off, (chains that were installed by competent, experienced mechanics) that I won't use anything but a rivet link. The tools to do it aren't that expensive and you'll have them forever. No good reason to use a clip link.
+1 to that.

if you must use a clip, at least safety wire it on there.
bah. superstitious horseshit.
 

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I noticed a few weeks ago that I lost the master clip. My first replacement chain went 25K miles with a clip and no problem, the second replacement has been on for maybe 5K miles and fell off. I stuck a new clip on there and after a couple of weeks it fell off too! I work at a motorcycle dealership and one of the techs safety wired the clip so I am good to go for now.

I have a rivet master link that going on there next...
 

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I am still waiting on my chain and sprockets to get here, UPS says tomorrow, I dont have the tools or the money to buy the tools, to use a rivet type, but my chain comes with both so i can change it if need be in the future
 

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rivet type mast link + tool = DONE once and forever, with no doubt whatsoever


just one mans opinion and preference
 
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ducatiman said:
rivet type mast link + tool = DONE once and forever, with no doubt whatsoever


just one mans opinion and preference
Can you post a link to the tool. Im about to have to do chain and sprockets and I dont know what the tool is called.

Sean
 

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Quick Google example:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BN9LPO

If you've got a dremel or angle grinder I wouldn't even mess around with using the chain breaker, but here's an example of the rivet press. I'm sure there are cheaper ones out there but this is the basic idea.
 

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That is my fear as well. I bought a new master link. It's the correct size. However... the pin doesn't shoot all the way through the links like it's supposed to. I'm unable to put the clamp on the end of then pin. So, I lubed it up with JB Weld Mixture, pushed the pins through, lined the back half and slapped it on I guess we will see tomorrow when I get off work. I keep moving it here and there to make sure the pin doesn't freeze still.
 

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Please if your so anal, wire it. a simple single strand over the clip and the outer plate will do. goop can't always stick in oiley places.

FOG
 

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Either way, it's just a temporary fix. I got a new chain and sprockets coming in next week.
.02 Is extreme engine damage worth the risk? Don't risk a broken crankcase by riding on a compromised link setup. Just wait for the new before riding.
 
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That is my fear as well. I bought a new master link. It's the correct size. However... the pin doesn't shoot all the way through the links like it's supposed to. I'm unable to put the clamp on the end of then pin. So, I lubed it up with JB Weld Mixture, pushed the pins through, lined the back half and slapped it on I guess we will see tomorrow when I get off work. I keep moving it here and there to make sure the pin doesn't freeze still.
It won't go all the way through unless you press the link plate on to the pinned side of the link.

If you ride, it WILL come off and smash your counter shaft cover.

I covered this, in this thread back in 2009. It does NOT matter which style master link you use, the link MUST be pressed together or it WILL fail.

Either style master link has a side with pins and side that is just a flat link plate. The flat side presses on to the pins. You NEED a tool to press the flat side on. It doesn't matter if you use a C clamp to do it, just make sure you press the two sides together.

Put your new chain on. Orient the the two ends so they meet on the rear sprocket anywhere on the back half, but closest to the middle of the back half.

If you look at the rear sprocket like a clock face, that would be 3 o'clock.

I can't help you if you only know how to tell time with a digital clock.

Once the chain is oriented that way, put the o-rings on the pins of the master link and feed it through the end links of the chain from the wheel side. Put the o-rings on and then put the flat side against the pins.

If you choose to use a C clamp instead of a proper tool, it will still work but you'll need to provide space for the pins to go when you press the two sides together.

I've taken a piece of 1"X 1/4" thick flat stock from any DIY store and drilled 2 holes in it, the width of the pins apart. That tends to work perfectly. Just place that with the pins through the holes and tighten up the C clamp. You'll feel it sorta "pop" or suddenly get easy to turn. Stop when that happens.

If you are installing a clip type master, the grooves in the pins for the clip will now be completely visible. If you are installing a rivet type link, the hollow, soft portion of the pin should now be completely through the flat link piece. The bottom of the recess in the pin should be level with the edge of the link.

Depending on the type of master link you're installing, install the clip or peen the soft pin ends. That's it. no need for more than that. Do what FOG wrote way back in 2009 if you have a clip type. Open end should point away from the direction of travel.

If you installed your own chain, and your process does not resemble what is written above STOP. Do not ride on that chain install. Your chain will come off and damage your bike.
 

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Tip: Lacking a tool or C clamp you can bent the link to fit the plate with the chain. With the plate fitted as far as it will go place both thumbs on the plate a push as to try to bend the chain over your thumbs this will flex the link enough to allow the plate to slip on securely and provide room for the clip

FOG
 
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