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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all been a while since ive been on here bike has been running well... hope everyone is ok.

Im not getting any spark on the left side.

It just stopped firing on the left side one day as i was warming her up. I removed the wire from the left plug while it was running to conferm it was only firing on one side, and she didnt even twitch..... so i thought it was the plug, or wire. Changed out plugs, and wires, and it still fires on the right, dead on left. I trouble shot.... switching wires left to right..... still fired on right dead on left (not the wires) switched the coils, same (not the coils) for giggles i switched the plugs.... same (not the plugs) i got curious so i took the tank off, and ran the working side (right) wire to the bad side (left) plug and vise versa.... wouldnt fire on either side, I switched back, and the right will fire as before, left side still dead. Ok... Not the plugs, not the wires, (that makes no sence to me) why wont the left side fire even with the working right wire set up is crossed over to it, when it fires the right side when switched back.

Took the tape off harness, no breaks. Unclipped/clipped all the connections on main harness, handle bars, and kick stand.... same. No matter what i did or what configuration of coil, plug, and wire i tried..... the left side wouldnt fire, but the right would. Im so lost.

Its looking like the CDI am i correct or did i miss something else i can check.
 

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Check the the coils with a multi meter per directions found in service manual. Ive had a similar issue caused by failing coils.

CDI is rare to go bad mainly from operator error and not part failure.

Edit: missed the part where you switched coils, although i fixed my problem by upgrading to COP and fixed the issue.
There is a chance the wire is bad at the female connector to the coil as-well.
I would perhaps try testing the cdi, the factory service manual has specific procedure with a volt meter.
 

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quite a detailed account although I don't really understand the point in swapping the wires. because the right side wires are set to time the right side not the left so it would be out of time on both cylinders. when swapped, surely.
you swapped the plugs. so it's not that.
you swapped the coils. so it's not that.
is the bike a gen 1 or gen 2. does the left coil work on the right side ok and is there no spark on the right coil when connected to the left side. I think you said there wasn't. check that there is power 12v down both red coil wires. and make sure you have the correct Ohms rating on both coils. think it's around 3.5 resistance. then if the issue is electrical perhaps the CDI is at fault. if not it could be mechanical but you will have eliminate the electrics first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
quite a detailed account although I don't really understand the point in swapping the wires. because the right side wires are set to time the right side not the left so it would be out of time on both cylinders. when swapped, surely.
you swapped the plugs. so it's not that.
you swapped the coils. so it's not that.
is the bike a gen 1 or gen 2. does the left coil work on the right side ok and is there no spark on the right coil when connected to the left side. I think you said there wasn't. check that there is power 12v down both red coil wires. and make sure you have the correct Ohms rating on both coils. think it's around 3.5 resistance. then if the issue is electrical perhaps the CDI is at fault. if not it could be mechanical but you will have eliminate the electrics first.
99 gen 2

I know on timming.... i just did it for giggles to see if i could get a spark since that side works............. the coils, plugs and wires all work on the right side if i change them out.... both sets.... im getting shocked from the left side wire if i touch it when running on 1 cylinder, and i hear the sparking from the coil, so i know its getting some type of spark.... the correct spark i guess not. Cleaning carbs to take that out of equation. On charger killed the battery. Going to take the plug out ith wire and touch to engine to see if its getting spark.

Fyi new starting solenoid, new fuse box, new wires, new plugs, carbs cleaned.... same issue.
 

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You should do a compression test. If that passes you can find the CDI test specs in post #19 in this thread.
Ignition system nonsense
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update.... ive dome a compression test its fine..... carb cleaned, no debris clean as a whistle. Plugged spark plug hole, and checked for spark on left. Blue spark to engine. On reinstall of plug, left side still dead, right side fires up, and dies after a few min with how rough its running (same as before). Im at such a loss... I got nothin. The only CDI i can find is 80$ used. I dont wanna buy 80$ paper weight. Any help would be appreciated, thank you. Honestly i dont understand how that is writen out... all the numbers and ** makes it hard to read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check the the coils with a multi meter per directions found in service manual. Ive had a similar issue caused by failing coils.

CDI is rare to go bad mainly from operator error and not part failure.

Edit: missed the part where you switched coils, although i fixed my problem by upgrading to COP and fixed the issue.
There is a chance the wire is bad at the female connector to the coil as-well.
I would perhaps try testing the cdi, the factory service manual has specific procedure with a volt meter.
Update.... ive dome a compression test its fine..... carb cleaned, no debris clean as a whistle. Plugged spark plug hole, and checked for spark on left. Blue spark to engine. On reinstall of plug, left side still dead, right side fires up, and dies after a few min with how rough its running (same as before). Im at such a loss... I got nothin. The only CDI i can find is 80$ used. I dont wanna buy 80$ paper weight. Any help would be appreciated, thank you. Honestly i dont understand how that is writen out... all the numbers and ** makes it hard to read.
I just ordered a CDI on ebay...... as my tester is dead and a Kawi one is needed anyways. Ill report back when i get the new one hooked up. If this doesnt work im at a loss. If any questions please ask id like to figure this out or its bye bye EX
 

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I could probably better explain how that CDI test is run. But at this point it's probably redundant as you have already ordered a new one, plus you would have to have a working multi-meter.
 

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hi. to be honest I'm a bit confused on this one. so it does spark on the left side after all but not under compression,
changing things over has no effect. compression test is fine eliminates other issues. if it had been a gen 1 I would have suggested looking at the flywheel triggers. in case one is off but the gen2 has only one and it works on the right side.
the only conclusion I come to is a weak spark on the left side. so it has to be electronic. if the new CDI doesn't work I'm as lost as you are. there are some other checks that could be done but without a working meter. it's not possible.
good luck lets us know if the new unit works or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hi. to be honest I'm a bit confused on this one. so it does spark on the left side after all but not under compression,
changing things over has no effect. compression test is fine eliminates other issues. if it had been a gen 1 I would have suggested looking at the flywheel triggers. in case one is off but the gen2 has only one and it works on the right side.
the only conclusion I come to is a weak spark on the left side. so it has to be electronic. if the new CDI doesn't work I'm as lost as you are. there are some other checks that could be done but without a working meter. it's not possible.
good luck lets us know if the new unit works or not.
Im confused too man..... when i, put the plug to the head, and saw spark (didnt think there would be spark) i was at a total loss which is leading to faulty CDI since it gets spark just maybe off time, or not strong enough, and to top all that off...... gas all over the ground today. Going to deep clean the carbs untill the new ignitor comes. Thanks for replys!!!!
 

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Just to clear something else up; the left hand cylinder is the #1 cylinder. (It was stated otherwise earlier.

If the flywheel woodruff key were sheered, it would throw the timing off. But I don't think it could find a position where the #2 cylinder would fire and yet the #1 to not fire.

+1 with @yorkie
You should go and get a new multi-meter while waiting on the new CDI.
 
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Reading the later posts, it sounds as though you are getting spark to the left side. TO me it sounds like you have a fuel issue on #1 cylinder. Is the plug wet after running on 1 cylinder for a while?
 

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it's pretty obvious the ignition is not the problem start looking elsewhere . are you sure you carb is functioning properly. check to see that your valves are functioning . does the bike actually run on 1 cylinder or are you just seeing spark.
FOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
it's pretty obvious the ignition is not the problem start looking elsewhere . are you sure you carb is functioning properly. check to see that your valves are functioning . does the bike actually run on 1 cylinder or are you just seeing spark.
FOG
I was thinking the same thing FOG.... but with no fire up i was leaning toward CDI. It is only running on 1...#2 only... if i remove the wire on #1 it runs the same... dosnt even studer, adjusting mix screw, and/or taking off the vac line doesnt do anything. No love on #1.

As far as carbs go, (these carbs fml) i sprayed them out last night, seemed ok.....(i know i know) grabbing a string tonight, and getting in there good, to make sure its not the issue. Past that i have no clue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
it's pretty obvious the ignition is not the problem start looking elsewhere . are you sure you carb is functioning properly. check to see that your valves are functioning . does the bike actually run on 1 cylinder or are you just seeing spark.
FOG
Outside of cranking by hand on main bolt..... how can i check to make sure i dont have a frozen valve???
 

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Outside of cranking by hand on main bolt..... how can i check to make sure i dont have a frozen valve???
You need to remove the valve cover and watch and measure the valve clearance as you turn the engine by hand.

Cleaning the carbs requires MUCH more than just poking a guitar string through the jets. There are many internal passages that can clog and can running issues.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You need to remove the valve cover and watch and measure the valve clearance as you turn the engine by hand.

Cleaning the carbs requires MUCH more than just poking a guitar string through the jets. There are many internal passages that can clog and can running issues.
Oh i know about the carbs.... worst thing about this bike. Ive taken mine apart more times than i care to remember. Had d man clean them a few years back. Could use a deep clean i guess. Ive seen my fair share of problems with carbs!

Yes im going to clean them good tonight, but i still dont think this is it. After i clean them, if it dosent work all thats left is CDI as far as i can tell.

If after i hook up the CDI, and theres no change i will take the top off, and do valves. After that if nothing works im throwing in the towel!!!!!!
 

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loosen the drain plug on the left carbutetor float bowl to verify there's fuel in the bowl. The ex-500 uses an aluminum fuel rail that corrodes pretty aggressively in the presence of ethanol. It may be corroded enough to block the fuel flow.
 
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