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Heating and shrinking is difficult. DO NOT TRY THIS ON YOUR TANK!!!!!!!! For reasons I hope that are obvious. If not, I'll let Darwinism takover.

If you are going to apply heat, you're going to ruin the paint, if you're into paint, you might as well do the repair properly using traditional methods of hammer and dolly, stud guns and slide hammers, or bondo for very, very small dents.

Paintless dent repair is amazingingly cost effective. Most places on the vehicle can be reached using rubber tipped tools that are often very narrow and can fit in behind the dent and allow a skilled technician to gently pop the dent back out with out damaging the surface paint. Thus saving a wad of cash on new paint.
 

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I've never tried this myself, but ive heard from several people that if you remove you gas tank & fill it with water then put it into your freezer small dents will pop out.
-Collin
 

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COLLIN H said:
I've never tried this myself, but ive heard from several people that if you remove you gas tank & fill it with water then put it into your freezer small dents will pop out.
-Collin
That's worth a try on my old Husky tank. Just as soon as I can convince the wife not to look in the freezer for a few hours.
 
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Tinker1980 said:
COLLIN H said:
I've never tried this myself, but ive heard from several people that if you remove you gas tank & fill it with water then put it into your freezer small dents will pop out. -Collin
That's worth a try on my old Husky tank. Just as soon as I can convince the wife not to look in the freezer for a few hours.
haha
 
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Heating and quenching is SOP for shrinking sheet metal. Heat a dime shaped spot with a torch, tap the hot spot with a hammer, then quench with water, repeat in various spots as needed. Of course a torch will ruin the paint, so here they're doing the heat and quench cycles at a much lower temp. Heat cycle with a hair dryer, quench with liquid CO2 at -100 degrees F. I wouldn't be surprised if it worked, but only on shallow dents with no creasing around the edges.
 

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i believe this works basically as the metal in the middle shrinks enough to pop out to its natural form. I dont know why you'd heat it up though.
 
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I think the idea is you want to drop the temp of the metal a significant amount, quickly. Heating first means a greater difference between the starting temp of the metal and the temp of the quenching medium. A greater difference means faster heat transfer. It's like a jumpstart, a "shock shrink", if you will.
 

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I didn't read the link, but I've used the technique before using a heat gun (not a blow dryer) and a can of compressed air (for cleaning computer keyboards) turned upside down. It does work, but like someone else said, it's not so good for creases. Or corners. Just shallow dents in nearly flat spots.
 

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It also works to leave your car in direct sun in mid July, then have at the dents with ice. Dry ice works even better. Done this multiple times on hail damage to my and friends cars.
 
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Fill your gas tank with water and put it in the freezer with the cap on. The pressure of the expanding water/ice will push out the dents.
 

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or blow out the seam.
 

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smith.p.sean said:
Kahooli said:
or blow out the seam.
Like an angry beer.
Ever brew ginger beer with an aggressive champagne yeast? **** will explode bottles like it's nothing.
 

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The glass shards I dug out of my hand were less than pleasant guests.
 

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I use ale yeast for my root beer... that way it doesn't overpressurize the bottles

It does give a more yeasty taste than champagne yeast does... but that's not an issue for root beer.


either way... all of my pop is bottled in plastic bottles... glass is for beer only.
 

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Is it safe to try dry ice on a gas tank w/o the heat? Or should I let the bike sit in the sun for a bit?
 

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i have let my car sit in the hot ass sun all afternoon and put dry ice on the dents in roof and amazingly pop. pop...pop.... dents no more. leave it in sun on a hot day and use dry ice.
 
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