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Discussion Starter #1
I Googled for a maintenance chart, specs & schedule... and got zilch.
I just got a used 2005 bike & don't have an owner's manual yet (will order one on line).


1) Has anyone found a schedule/specs chart/list on-line that we can STICKY here?
2) Are the non-factory, Haynes-type, manuals worth beans?
3) Is the factory manual & new-model update worth the $100?

How do I measure the fluid level? The left side cap had no metal dipstick on it.
Which brand/type chain lube do you guys like? The shop guy wanted me to buy some wax-type.
Maybe it doesn't matter that much, but I found some chain lubes superior for bicycling, so....
Gasoline: regular, 10% ethanol... ?
What's the purpose of the little oval hole in the right-side rear panel?
How many miles/years before flushing the antifreeze?
I can't find the spare tire anywhere!!
Okay, just checking to see if anyone actually reads this far. ;)
 
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Okay, hopefully I answer all these.

http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,161.0.html

The maintance chart is right here on our own site. We have a search function too :)

Measure what fluid level? Oil? Below the oil filler cap there is a glass site. There are two horizontal lines on it, and you should see oil sitting somewhere between the two lines.

The oval whole int he right-side real panel is for you to check the level of your rear-brake fluid. Shine a flashlight in there for a better look.

Gasoline - 87 Octane. Ethanol is fine, almost all gas (at least in Canada) as a significant percentage of it anyways. I often ran 10 per cent because it's cheaper. No need for high octane fuel. Manual calls for 91 RON, which is 87 Octane.

I used some liquid chain lube this past season, but may switch to wax because it's cleaner this coming summer. Depends on what's best recommended for my new chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Chain wax? never heard of it. How do you apply it? WHere can I get it? and is it 100% mess free?

Honestly I am not all concerned with the bikes looks... roommate crashed, brother dropped, assholes vandalised. I told meself its a commuter and that's that. I'm not going to have a heart attack every time a bug exlopdes on my headlamp. HOWEVER, that chain gunk in hidioues and down right unbearable to look at, and makes touching anything down in that area of the bike a complete chore.
 

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chain wax is a liquid O-Ring chain lubricant that, when allowed to set up properly, will cover the chain in a wax-like substance. if applied liberally, it will fling off the chain when in motion. To avoid fling, use SPARINGLY and wipe up excess application. one can should last you a VERY VERY long time.

Popular brands are Maxima and Pro Honda.

if you are looking for a cleaner alternative, you can coat the chain with 80W gear oil applied by a rag.
 

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Knightslugger said:
chain wax is a liquid O-Ring chain lubricant that, when allowed to set up properly, will cover the chain in a wax-like substance. if applied liberally, it will fling off the chain when in motion. To avoid fling, use SPARINGLY and wipe up excess application. one can should last you a VERY VERY long time.

Popular brands are Maxima and Pro Honda.

if you are looking for a cleaner alternative, you can coat the chain with 80W gear oil applied by a rag.
wow, news to me, so gear oil will stay put? This might sound stupid but what would regular moto engine oil do to the chain?
 

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For the most part yeah, it'll stay put, just apply it sparingly on a clean chain and wipe off the excess. it wont last as long and you need to clean/re-dress the chain a bit more often, but it doesn't fling off and the chain stays nice and shiny. Lucas gear oil i've heard works the best.

regular motorcycle oil would just drip off and sling everywhere. probably wouldn't coat very well either because of it's viscosity.
 
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Yeah, the wax looks a lot neater. Was looking at the chain on this one guys Ducati, and he has the wax. It's just a white film that cover's the chain. My bike tire and swim arm were covered with the previous lube until I got a chance to scrub it off. Messy *&^%&!!!
 

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Royson said:
Yeah, the wax looks a lot neater. Was looking at the chain on this one guys Ducati, and he has the wax. It's just a white film that cover's the chain. My bike tire and swim arm were covered with the previous lube until I got a chance to scrub it off. Messy *&^%&!!!
How did you do it? I was thinking some cheapo engine degreaser and a(lot of) shop rag(s)
 

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be careful with that stuff. a lot of that isn't very kind to rubber. Honda has a brake and contact cleaner that they promote as a their chain cleaner (and it really is, works good!). it's cheap, safe for the chain, and has enough power to blast out grit. On the other hand, you could use kerosene and a light brush. takes time though. there's also Maxima Chain clean. also works wonders.

The lubes generally just spray on and step up in a few minutes. wipe off the excess and you're done.

You're lucky you have a center stand. it's a pain in the rear to clean my CBR's chain without a rear stand (which i still don't have)!
 

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The engine degrease I was planning to use is somewhat of a mickey mouse product. I used to use it to wash undersides of cars. I'd spray about a half can of this stuff from the front cover to the rear diff and give it a quick run of the pressure washer. worked wonders (esp. for tracing leaks)... I was a little turned off by brake cleaner, for the reason that its so strong... destroys rubber, stains plastics etc. etc. etc. ... in general when using a strong engine degreaser or break cleaner you have to be careful. Sometimes I'm too lazy for careful espically with cleaning things. I found this to be a happy medium... Will I wack the biek with the pressure washer? probably not lol.

Thanks for the hint, I'm stopping by a zook/honda dealer this weekend I'll swing by and take a look.
 
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Kerosene will clean the chain well.

For that stuff that sprayed off onto my rim and other bits, I use a tire cleaner for my car - just be careful not to get ANY on your rubber. But it does lift the tough dirt, oil, etc, really well.
 

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TurtleWax bug, tar, and sap remover works GREAT for just that kind of stuff. That's how i got that parking sticker removed from my bike.

anyone remember THAT little episode?
 

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In reference to the earlier posts, (sorry to go off-topic guys)

Probably a stupid question, bear with me i'm still trying to learn and my Hanes manual is in the mail ;) But, for the oil window, should the level of oil be in between the 2 lines while RUNNING or while sitting?
 

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ONLY while sitting. if its runing and halfway between you have issues lol. also you need your bike to be on the center stand and on LEVEL ground to properly check the level. and it dosent need to be smack dab in the middle, otherwise theyd just stick one line. think of it like a normal dip stick...you have your max and min line..try to keep it at max.

and since its also custom for new people to ask (i know i did) as to what oil people use. i, as well as several others, used rotella T..the kind of stuff used in diesel engines. it dosent have the friction modifiers that most car oils have (wreaks havoc on our wet clutch) and ive heard the added sulphur content of the rotella is good.
 

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the oil level should be read as follows:

bike should be at operating temperature, on level ground, and on the center stand. When you shut the engine down, wait 5 minutes before reading level. after 5 minutes has elapsed, check the level by looking though the glass window on the right side of the engine cover. the level should be anywhere in between the two marks on the engine cover.
 

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  Is it just called Rotella T?  Are there any SAE numbers to go with it?  Where did you purchase it from? I just used basic Quaker state 10w40, what kind of damage does that do to the wet clutch?
Thanks a lot guys
 

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if it's non energy conserving, not much, if any. remember, moly is the evil that makes the clutch suck and all Energy Conserving oils have redonkulous amounts of moly.

The brand is called Shell, the oil is called Rotella T. it's in a large white or light metallic blue (synthetic) jug.
 

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There are two varieties of Shell Rotella T oil, a dino and a synthetic. On my C50 I made the switch to the synthetic (5W40) on the third oil change and haven't looked back 16,000 miles later.

I don't have my EX yet but plan on running the same oil in it as well.

You can get it by the gallon at Wal-Mart.

Edited to add: The dino comes in a white bottle and the synthetic in blue.

Good luck!

Darren
 
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