Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm have 6000 miles on my Ninja 500R and I've been using Chevron 10W-40 and I'm planning to switch to Synthetic on the next oil change. I think the recommended oil weight is 10W40 to 20w50 (right?) These Synthetic seems to be quite different as far as these number goes. So I'm debating what I should use, what do you think?

Mobil 1 Motor Oil SuperSyn 5W-30 ($2.5 @costco)
Mobil 1 Motor Oil SuperSyn 10W-30 ($2.5 @costco)
Mobil 1 Motor Oil SuperSyn 15W-50 ($2.5 @costco)

OR

Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 ($4.xx @walmart)
Shell Rotella T Synthetic 15W-40 ($? @walmart)
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Mobil 1 makes a 10w-40 available at Walmart. I used to use the Rotella 5w-40, but the Mobil 1 seems to go a bit longer before the shifts start to get a little sticky.

Rich
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
496 Posts
last trip u had to wally world, they now carry rotella full syntetic. it was like 16 bucks for a 4 quart jug. i didnt get the synthetic, largely because my bike has 15000 miles, and i have no clue of the engine condition (well, it runs good..). I know on cars, if your engine isnt in top shape, synthetic will just cause problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,073 Posts
None of those are motorcycle oil.
Find oil that has a picture of a motorcycle on the container and buy that. If this oil is 10-40 hey, even better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
bitzz said:
None of those are motorcycle oil.
Find oil that has a picture of a motorcycle on the container and buy that. If this oil is 10-40 hey, even better.
there's nothing special about that oil with the motorcycle on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,526 Posts
Don't you know all the magic is the container not what's contained in it ?

^ Shell rotella has proven good for many so far, change it at 3k
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
Jsvob03 said:
last trip u had to wally world, they now carry rotella full syntetic. it was like 16 bucks for a 4 quart jug. i didnt get the synthetic, largely because my bike has 15000 miles, and i have no clue of the engine condition (well, it runs good..). I know on cars, if your engine isnt in top shape, synthetic will just cause problems.
In another thread on oil & filters, the crew here debated about advantages of synthetic vs regular dinosaur oil (They should call it tropical plant oil). Seems that the general consensus was that the synthetic may be of special value in extreme temperature riding (hot desert hours, or polar time) it is otherwise money down the recycled-oil hole. Because the 500's engine, tranny & clutch all share the same oil then the oil needs changed after 3,000 miles (or some number of rev hours)... syntheic or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
I dont know any of the science or truth behind lots of the oil comparisons , but from all I have read without spending 6 bucks a qt. Rotell T is the best in all the comparisons that I read ,and as stated before on here it comes in standard or synthetic. also the Purolator filter #PL14610 ranked high also and is a little bigger than stock filter too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
If I remember correctly the last oil test I was reading proved that the synthetic oil actually held it's viscosity longer than the dino oil in wet clutch situation. If I remember correctly most motorcycle specific oils dropped to about 75% within 800 miles while it took over 3000 for it on mobil 1. By the end of 1500 miles the MC type oils were down to 65% or so while mobil 1 was in the high 80's or something. If I plan on changing the oil every 2k I would still use synthetic. Then again that's just me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,881 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
My opinion: Most engine failures are the result of over-revving, overheating, detonation, hydraulic lock, and general abuse. Avoiding this type of abuse is way more important than the type of oil you use. Having said that I use synthetics and quality oil filters in all of my vehicles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,073 Posts
dwengi said:
My opinion: Most engine failures are the result of over-revving, overheating, detonation, hydraulic lock, and general abuse. Avoiding this type of abuse is way more important than the type of oil you use. Having said that I use synthetics and quality oil filters in all of my vehicles.
In my experience I have found most EX500 motor failures come directly from over revving. The end result is the case deforms allowing the crank to "walk" in the case increasing the bearing clearances, thus allowing the oil pressure to blow off.
It don't matter a bit what oil you got when you got zero oil pressure. Kiss the left side big end and crank bearing goodbye, oh yeah... and the left con rod and the crankshaft...and maybe the cases.

As to;
"there's nothing special about that oil with the motorcycle on it."
Except the oil contained within was DESIGNED for a high revving motor with an oil bath clutch, ie; a motorcycle, which NO SAE oil past SJ (I think) was. Newer SAE oil has changed since the EX was designed, in the early eighties, with more thought going into energy conservation than oil bath clutches and transmissions that run in engine oil. Diesel oil is designed for an engine that NEVER sees revs past about 4000rpm. If you NEVER rev your bike past 4000rpm then this oil might be for you. I rev mine past 4000rpm.

Can someone here tell me what is wrong with running the oil specified in the manual? What is it that you are trying (fruitlessly) to find? I am interested to know.
I CAN tell you what is wrong with NOT running the oil specified in the manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
bitzz said:
Can someone here tell me what is wrong with running the oil specified in the manual? What is it that you are trying (fruitlessly) to find? I am interested to know.
I CAN tell you what is wrong with NOT running the oil specified in the manual.
That would be counter to my need to express my individuality and could have a negative effect on my self-esteem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Diesel oil is designed for a diesel and thefore doesn't have all the additives that you may find in some standard engine oils that is bad for the wet clutch. That is why people typically use it. Also this so called don't rev over 4k with it? I believe many ex500 racers use rotella in their bikes and have no problems. It's still oil. It is still a 5w-40 or 15w-40 regardless of engine rpm. The only thing that will change that is the wear over time in which it actually holds its viscosity longer than almost every oil out there. People use this same "DIESEL" oil in various other motorcycles as well with excellent results. They all rev over 4k rpms as well. Some people use it in cars without issue. I'd say most people rev their cars over 4krpm when accelerating briskly or passing on the highway with a downshift. I will be doing my next oil change with rotella for my ex. When I get my DR-Z I'll be doing the same.

Oh and the reason people have tried it and do it? That's because it's more cost effective than buying any of those so called motorcycle specific oils. Think saving some cash here. As it's always said though, this is a heavily debated topic just like tires and chain cleaning that everyone has their own opinions and swears they are the all knowing on the supject. If you don't want to use it then don't. Don't go around saying it's bad when people have done it since I'm sure before I was alive(on bikes previous to the ex of course) and it has been proven to work very well.
-Fin
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top