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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I get all jazzed about seeing some Red, XL, Icon "Pursuit Gloves" on sale at the local motorcycle shop marked down from $54 to $20. They had 4 more pairs in red & blue but limited sizes, Here's what they look like: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/item.aspx?style=15812&department=106&division=1
I have long narrow hands & the extra-large fit well. Wide handed folks might not fit them. Maybe they're women's gloves... but they fit well, are "Go Big Red" visible... so what the heck.

Anyway, they also had 3-4 clearance-priced, smoke, Zero Gravity Windscreens, each for $20. None were factory-made for an EX 500, but I put the largest one they had (ST SUZ Bandit 600 00-03/1200S) & set it over my '05 windscreen. Looks to me like it should fit once cut to size & redrilled... and be a little wider and a couple inches taller w/ less back-curve at the top. See pics below.

So when I get the factory screen off this broken fairing (I'm new at this), I'll use a marker to trace the factory perimeter-shape onto this Bandit-one. Then cut it on my fine toothed bandsaw, then mark the holes & use the drill press. I'll take pics but it's not likely to be real soon... maybe over Winter break when my son's home again.

Here's where I'm looking for some experience. I'm planning on getting the Aerotech replacement fairing which will need fitted, primed, then painted. (Think I'll put the turn signals in the fairing ports like someone in this forum did.)

1) has anyone here bought & painted that fairing? For a guy with some drawing ability, is painting from a spray can gonna give a good result? I don't need excellence & don't expect that from spray painting.

2) How much modification is needed for that fairing to bolt on? (mounts, holes, other?)

3) Ideas & heads-up warnings are VERY welcome. Bart




 

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I am sure you can have some bumper repair guys to shoot the fairing for 200 bucks are so. If you were a bit closer I could reffer some guys that does bumpers now and used to do bikes... They'd probably do it for a hundred and they good a damn good job.

After far as mounting and drilling and all this stuff that could go totally wrong (I have a horrible time with one time only kinda modifications) I would LOVE to see how/what/when you get this done. I've been tinkering with the idea to get the speed hump that covers the rear seat (girlfriend already has a bike! no need for any pillions!) for the same company your thinking about getting your front fairing from.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Modding a Zero Grav Suzuki Bandit 600 Windscreen

Ok, I couldn't stand having that screen staring at me & wondering if it might fit.
So I took off the broken fairing & stock windscreen & compared them (photos below) & have been trying to cut & fit starting at the bottom.

It's uncertain whether or not it'll work: the complications are due to the custom edge bends & compound curves (of the Bandit screen) near where the 500's mirrors are located.

Since our fairing windscreen is mostly curved as a partial cyclinder (1 axis) I'm thinking if I find a source of flat smoked acrylic (this one is the same thickness as a 3/32 drill bit) it might work better. Note: ZG claims this acrylic is not shatterproof & for off road use only. Quick Google-search found: http://www.tapplastics.com/info/acrylic.php


 

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Well, if the screen won't work as is and you can't take it back, I say it's time for a little heat. A little time and patience with a heat gun might get things tuned in properly (or I suppose they could leave you with a ball of plastic ;D).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nick D said:
Well, if the screen won't work as is and you can't take it back, I say it's time for a little heat. A little time and patience with a heat gun might get things tuned in properly (or I suppose they could leave you with a ball of plastic ;D).
The website for tapplastics (2 messages below) had several PDF files including one on how to work w/ acrylics... smoothing the edges, and heating & shaping (2-300 degrees?). I don't have an actual heat gun & the site warned absolutely not to heat acrylic in the oven... explosive fumes... rather convincing.

So... will a hair dryer get hot enough? I need to flatten a compound curve. I was also thinking about using an iron & thick cotton cloth... putting wax paper over the acrylic? Any ideas on that?

At this point, it looks like the ZG smoke windscreen will be 2-3 inches taller in the top center & will not curve back like the stock windscreen. It's also several ounces lighter so this bike oughta accelerate way faster! (Yeah... it's an attempt at a joke)

Need to put the broken fairing back on the bike so the metal frame arms that go to the rear view mirrors will hold the fairing into it's supported position. Then I can try to get the final fit. Tomorrow (Sunday).
 

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MrSciTrek said:
The website for tapplastics (2 messages below) had several PDF files including one on how to work w/ acrylics... smoothing the edges, and heating & shaping (2-300 degrees?). I don't have an actual heat gun & the site warned absolutely not to heat acrylic in the oven... explosive fumes... rather convincing.

So... will a hair dryer get hot enough? I need to flatten a compound curve. I was also thinking about using an iron & thick cotton cloth... putting wax paper over the acrylic? Any ideas on that?

At this point, it looks like the ZG smoke windscreen will be 2-3 inches taller in the top center & will not curve back like the stock windscreen. It's also several ounces lighter so this bike oughta accelerate way faster! (Yeah... it's an attempt at a joke)

Need to put the broken fairing back on the bike so the metal frame arms that go to the rear view mirrors will hold the fairing into it's supported position. Then I can try to get the final fit. Tomorrow (Sunday).
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec97/873515633.Ph.r.html

That tells a bit about calculating the expected max temp of a given hair dryer. From a quick search I'm thinking 180 or 200 degrees is about it for most I saw online. That might depend on the thickness of the plastic at that point. My only fear about using the iron would be that it would want to flatten anything it touched. It might work if you had a shaped jig to lay the screen over, but freehand it might get fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah... it's all part of the experiment... I'd definitely start at low temps & work my way up.
If water is sprinkled on the iron & it takes a tic or two to boil then it's right around that 212 F point.

I'd probably preheat the plastic w/ hot water &, after drying, keep it warm with the hair dryer first.
Might press it between some wood & let it cool while flattened. -?-

I'm gonna sleep on it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nick D said:
MrSciTrek said:
I'm gonna sleep on it though.
Okay, but let it cool before you actually fall asleep on top of it :D.
You know, as soon as I wrote that I thought about it being an "opening"... 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah... I couldn't leave the bike sitting in the garage... calling to me :'( ... so got it done. ;D
1) Top pic- modded Zero G "bandit" version cut to fit fairing, alongside the stock windscreen.
2) Right side view (broken side fairing) w/ stock screen held tight w/ rags.
3) Rt side w/ modded ZG Bandit screen. Note that it's higher & more upright.
4) Picture from the riders seat w/ stock windscreen (held tight w/ rags).
5) Picture from the seat w/ ZG modded screen. Note the extra height.
6) Whole bike view w/ modded screen.

Then it started to sprinkle. Might get freezing rain tonight (Omaha). :-\

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How about a left-front quarter pic? From the angles showing I honestly think the bandit screen looks better. I bet you get less direct wind with it, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nick D said:
How about a left-front quarter pic? From the angles showing I honestly think the bandit screen looks better. I bet you get less direct wind with it, too.
I'll get some left side pics tomorrow. It's rainy & dark now & it's in a 2 car garage... good thing my Zx2 is small.

I did take it for a quick test drive up to 50 mph: no more wind at my neck (under the helmet), at that speed anyway. That was the main goal. When the weather next clears I'll take it to the Interstate & see how it works.

Oh yeah, Nick... the paper name-flakes are made & will be mailed Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
MrSciTrek said:
Yeah... it's all part of the experiment... I'd definitely start at low temps & work my way up.
If water is sprinkled on the iron & it takes a tic or two to boil then it's right around that 212 F point.

I'd probably preheat the plastic w/ hot water &, after drying, keep it warm with the hair dryer first.
Might press it between some wood & let it cool while flattened. -?-

I'm gonna sleep on it though.
Here's what the plastics guy emailed me:

"It’s hard to get acrylic to the correct forming temperature, 340 to 380 F, with hair dryers. In addition the heat must be even across the area to be formed. You might want to test your method on scrap pieces of acrylic before trying to modify you fairing. Acrylic that has a hard coating on one or both sides can not be formed. To do that, parts are first formed then coated."
 

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MrSciTrek said:
I'll get some left side pics tomorrow. It's rainy & dark now & it's in a 2 car garage... good thing my Zx2 is small.
I'm wishing I had a ZX2 or 2 about now. With my 2 bikes (along one side wall), my Ranger, and the wife's Sable I do good to have room to get into the vehicles or to my tool box.

MrSciTrek said:
I did take it for a quick test drive up to 50 mph: no more wind at my neck (under the helmet), at that speed anyway. That was the main goal. When the weather next clears I'll take it to the Interstate & see how it works.
Perhaps I'll have to gauge my replacement screen (going to be homemade because I'm not spending $70 on a piece of plastic) on the lay of that one, because it would be nice to actually get a little wind deflection at speed.

MrSciTrek said:
Oh yeah, Nick... the paper name-flakes are made & will be mailed Monday.
Awesome! I'll be watching for them.

MrSciTrek said:
Here's what the plastics guy emailed me:

"It’s hard to get acrylic to the correct forming temperature, 340 to 380 F, with hair dryers. In addition the heat must be even across the area to be formed. You might want to test your method on scrap pieces of acrylic before trying to modify you fairing. Acrylic that has a hard coating on one or both sides can not be formed. To do that, parts are first formed then coated."
Luckily I'm a plumber and mildly trained in the art of even-heating 8).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the right side pics w/ the modded-Bandit windscreen...
The side-view one is shakey because a van turned the corner & I wiggled.
Didn't know it was blurred 'til I downloaded the pics after dark.



 

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Man, that came out awesome! Interested to hear how it does at extended speed. I may have to start scrounging for Bandit 'screen. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
maverick9611 said:
that rear mupflap has to go!!! :eek:
That's in the plans. I'm waiting to find LED turn-signal lights that include always-on running lights, and whatever case they'll fit in. Ideas welcome!

Plus, it may be a father/son thing when the Marine is home for Christmas.
 
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