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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The project bike I've been working on and made quite a bit of progress on was ready for its first start-up test. I did everything that is required for a good start-up but when I click the button all I heard was a clicking noise. I replaced the starter motor, relay, new battery, all of that, and when I tried again all I heard was that click which causes me to believe my engine may be seized. I'm planning on removing the spark plugs and pouring WD-40 in the cylinders and hoping that clears it up. But if anyone has any other tips I'm all ears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The project bike I've been working on and made quite a bit of progress on was ready for its first start-up test. I did everything that is required for a good start-up but when I click the button all I heard was a clicking noise. I replaced the starter motor, relay, new battery, all of that, and when I tried again all I heard was that click which causes me to believe my engine may be seized. I'm planning on removing the spark plugs and pouring WD-40 in the cylinders and hoping that clears it up. But if anyone has any other tips I'm all ears.
I also put a new flywheel in could I have put the stator cover back on incorrectly or too tight is that also a possibility?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did the engine turn before you made this change?
No, it would just click so I assumed it was just the starter motor or relay issue and i also noticed the flywheel was bad and decided since I was already down there I'd replace it too.
 

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I also put a new flywheel in could I have put the stator cover back on incorrectly or too tight is that also a possibility?
Pull the plastic cover over the flywheel bolt and turn the flywheel with a socket. With plugs out, you should be able to rotate it clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pull the plastic cover over the flywheel bolt and turn the flywheel with a socket. With plugs out, you should be able to rotate it clockwise.
I did it but what might be the reason for it not starting all I'm getting is a clicking noise from the relay
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another thing is the bikes turn signals and hazards work but brake light, headlight and horn doesn't work is that somewhat related?
 

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Border Kong
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Hey man, calm down. Diagnosing using the keyboard involves a series of steps to follow and is not easy. First thing's first.

Depending on the result each step, we can advance in the diagnosis and rule out a major problem. There is no point in throwing money at parts that are not related to the problem.

Then:
First, make sure that the cylinders are not blocked. Rule out mechanical problems and then move on to electrical.
If you managed to turn the flywheel two full turns then the engine is not stuck.
Remove the starter motor and test it with 12V direct from the battery. If it moves, then it is not the starter.
 

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Tanker Clown
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^^^ this. Diagnostics is not taking wild shots at what might be wrong. It is about eliminating possible problems one by one until the problem or problems is/are fixed.
Another thing is the bikes turn signals and hazards work but brake light, headlight and horn doesn't work is that somewhat related?
It is indicative of an electrical issue but that’s it. First you must establish whether or not the engine is in fact seized.

If it turns over manually after you remove the spark plugs then it clearly is not seized.

You mentioned you replaced the flywheel. I presume you ensured the key was installed to index the flywheel correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey man, calm down. Diagnosing using the keyboard involves a series of steps to follow and is not easy. First thing's first.

Depending on the result each step, we can advance in the diagnosis and rule out a major problem. There is no point in throwing money at parts that are not related to the problem.

Then:
First, make sure that the cylinders are not blocked. Rule out mechanical problems and then move on to electrical.
If you managed to turn the flywheel two full turns then the engine is not stuck.
Remove the starter motor and test it with 12V direct from the battery. If it moves, then it is not the starter.
So the flywheel turns properly when turned so the engine isn't seized. I don't think the starter motor is the problem bc i bought it brand new a couple days ago
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
^^^ this. Diagnostics is not taking wild shots at what might be wrong. It is about eliminating possible problems one by one until the problem or problems is/are fixed.

It is indicative of an electrical issue but that’s it. First you must establish whether or not the engine is in fact seized.

If it turns over manually after you remove the spark plugs then it clearly is not seized.

You mentioned you replaced the flywheel. I presume you ensured the key was installed to index the flywheel correctly?
The Flywheel on this bike only goes in one particular way bc it had a indent where it needs to go so I'm assuming i put it in right
 

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Tanker Clown
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Okay, so the engine turns over when you rotate the fly wheel. The engine is clearly not seized.

The starter “could” be faulty even from new so make sure it it spins as it should when powered up.

I presume from what’s been written so far that there’s no issue with the starter gear or sprag clutch.

If there were the engine would not turn freely.

If that is correct, that moves the problem from the mechanical to the electrical realm of possibility.

1st things 1st. Make sure the battery is fully charged and the terminals are clean.

A fully charged battery at rest should read at least 13 V after being off the charger for an hour or two.

if you can confirm both those things, start checking the battery cables.

Ensure both ends are clean. The battery end and the end that secures to the starter relay and engine/frame for the ground.

After that, make sure the point they secure to is clean and corrosion free also. Secure the cables and make sure they’re tight.

98% of all electrical issues I’ve dealt with boiled down to a faulty ground. Make certain the path to ground is clean and secure.

Finally, make sure the cable ends from the relay to the starter are also clean and tight.

Let us know once you’ve done all this and what the results are. We’ll go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, so the engine turns over when you rotate the fly wheel. The engine is clearly not seized.

The starter “could” be faulty even from new so make sure it it spins as it should when powered up.

I presume from what’s been written so far that there’s no issue with the starter gear or sprag clutch.

If there were the engine would not turn freely.

If that is correct, that moves the problem from the mechanical to the electrical realm of possibility.

1st things 1st. Make sure the battery is fully charged and the terminals are clean.

A fully charged battery at rest should read at least 13 V after being off the charger for an hour or two.

if you can confirm both those things, start checking the battery cables.

Ensure both ends are clean. The battery end and the end that secures to the starter relay and engine/frame for the ground.

After that, make sure the point they secure to is clean and corrosion free also. Secure the cables and make sure they’re tight.

98% of all electrical issues I’ve dealt with boiled down to a faulty ground. Make certain the path to ground is clean and secure.

Finally, make sure the cable ends from the relay to the starter are also clean and tight.

Let us know once you’ve done all this and what the results are. We’ll go from there.
I removed the starter motor and when i hook it up to a battery it spins however every time I touch it to the positive part of the starter motor I get a large number of sparks
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay, so the engine turns over when you rotate the fly wheel. The engine is clearly not seized.

The starter “could” be faulty even from new so make sure it it spins as it should when powered up.

I presume from what’s been written so far that there’s no issue with the starter gear or sprag clutch.

If there were the engine would not turn freely.

If that is correct, that moves the problem from the mechanical to the electrical realm of possibility.

1st things 1st. Make sure the battery is fully charged and the terminals are clean.

A fully charged battery at rest should read at least 13 V after being off the charger for an hour or two.

if you can confirm both those things, start checking the battery cables.

Ensure both ends are clean. The battery end and the end that secures to the starter relay and engine/frame for the ground.

After that, make sure the point they secure to is clean and corrosion free also. Secure the cables and make sure they’re tight.

98% of all electrical issues I’ve dealt with boiled down to a faulty ground. Make certain the path to ground is clean and secure.

Finally, make sure the cable ends from the relay to the starter are also clean and tight.

Let us know once you’ve done all this and what the results are. We’ll go from there.
Where are the grounds usually located I'm having a hard time finding them
 

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Guys, the OP has multiple threads ongoing most are older than this one, all basically in the same vane with the same info on the other threads but left unanswered, all his issues are down to one electrical problem but doesn't know what that is. and has embarked on replacing parts at random while guessing what the issue is.
each time replacing some part and starting new thread when this hasn't fixed it, until he goes back to basics starts at the beginning from point A, and goes through the whole system a resolution will be very difficult.
we know the engine is not seized, we know the starter clutch is ok as the flywheel only turns one way, we know he has no lights when the ignition is on. and no power to the starter to spin the engine, also he knows where the cables go (other thread) as this was explained.
new parts replaced so must be good (unless very unlucky) Battery, starter motor, solenoid, Flywheel. I believe also the the thick battery wires. but still it will not turn over.
I believe he is running reversed polarity somewhere in the system possibly at the solenoid. it would account for the sparking on the starter motor cable, no lights, no ignition, and no output from the installed starter motor.
one thread with a start and a solution would have been better than repeated questions and answers on each new part fitted without success. some photos taken of the actual bikes connection would have helped a great deal.
 

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Fast Old Guy
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THE starter only has 1 positive part , the insulated connection post

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
FOG
[/QUOTE]
Guys, the OP has multiple threads ongoing most are older than this one, all basically in the same vane with the same info on the other threads but left unanswered, all his issues are down to one electrical problem but doesn't know what that is. and has embarked on replacing parts at random while guessing what the issue is.
each time replacing some part and starting new thread when this hasn't fixed it, until he goes back to basics starts at the beginning from point A, and goes through the whole system a resolution will be very difficult.
we know the engine is not seized, we know the starter clutch is ok as the flywheel only turns one way, we know he has no lights when the ignition is on. and no power to the starter to spin the engine, also he knows where the cables go (other thread) as this was explained.
new parts replaced so must be good (unless very unlucky) Battery, starter motor, solenoid, Flywheel. I believe also the the thick battery wires. but still it will not turn over.
I believe he is running reversed polarity somewhere in the system possibly at the solenoid. it would account for the sparking on the starter motor cable, no lights, no ignition, and no output from the installed starter motor.
one thread with a start and a solution would have been better than repeated questions and answers on each new part fitted without success. some photos taken of the actual bikes connection would have helped a great deal.
I apologize I shouldn't have started 3 different threads.

I hope this can make my problem more clear.

1. Starter Motor is tested and it works
2. Battery is fully charged
3. Engine isn't seized bc it turns easily when I turn it from the flywheel bolt
4. My horn, Turn signals, hazards all work

Now the only things that aren't working are

1. Headlight and brake light wont turn on but im assuming its bc the engine isnt turned on yet.
2. The neutral indicator light on the dash isnt flashing on.
3. Oil light is always on for some reason
4. Everytime I put the kickstand up, killswitch off, clutch in and click start all im getting is a click.
 

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Tanker Clown
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The sparks you’re getting when you touch the lead from the battery to the starter pole occurs when you complete the circuit.

This is somewhat normal as there is a sudden load placed on the circuit and the connection is not tight.

If the starter turns as normal, there is no issue there.

Do you have a schematic to work from?

The battery provides 12V current that flows from the positive terminal out through the circuit and back to the battery negative (ground) terminal.

There are several ground points on the frame as well as on the engine. Just follow the negative cable and find where it terminates on the engine.

Remove the terminal screw and ensure the terminal is clean as well as the point it is secured to on the engine. Once both are clean ensure the terminal bolt or screw is tight. DO NOT skip cleaning both.

Galvanic corrosion can occur between the terminal and the surface it is screwed to. Also, if the surface has been painted remove the paint where the terminal is secured.

Let us know if you still just get a click from the starter relay or if you get engine turnover once all this is done.
 

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Tanker Clown
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I just reread the last part of your last post. Please tell me you have NOT been turning the kill switch to off this whole time.

The oil light will remain on until you have oil pressure. This won’t happen until the engine is turning over enough that oil is being pumped through the engine at a sufficient volume.
 
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