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Here is what the junction box from my bike looks like it looks brand new, no reason at all to suspect this might be causing issues...
View attachment 55560 View attachment 55561
Can't tell if you're being serious or not. In the event that you are... That PCB is porked. Quite possibly the cause of your issues. Covered in corrosion and the two traces at the top where the damage is are more than likely compromised and I'm pretty sure they're part of the ignition circuit, but could be wrong. I've attached what a mostly good one should look like, mine is slightly different 'cause it's a different generation. But yours is most definitely pretty f***ed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Can't tell if you're being serious or not. In the event that you are... That PCB is porked. Quite possibly the cause of your issues. Covered in corrosion and the two traces at the top where the damage is are more than likely compromised and I'm pretty sure they're part of the ignition circuit, but could be wrong. I've attached what a mostly good one should look like, mine is slightly different 'cause it's a different generation. But yours is most definitely pretty f***ed.
I was just kidding:LOL: yea I definitely agree it's f***ed
 

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Can't tell if you're being serious or not. In the event that you are... That PCB is porked. Quite possibly the cause of your issues. Covered in corrosion and the two traces at the top where the damage is are more than likely compromised and I'm pretty sure they're part of the ignition circuit, but could be wrong. I've attached what a mostly good one should look like, mine is slightly different 'cause it's a different generation. But yours is most definitely pretty f***ed.
Thanks for posting the photos, I am trying to help another member and it just goes to show you Kawasaki can make things simple and easy to get at, much easier than the Versys 650
This guy has made a few mistakes;
 
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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
UPDATE: So the Used Junction Box I ordered from eBay finally arrived I was able to install it and see some change. Now the starter motor activates when I press the RUN button and I can hear it cranking a little bit but it still won't startup. I'm thinking it's a sparking issue and needs more fuel into the carbs. I attempted to remove the ignition coils off the spark plugs in order to test it but the boot on one of them completely came off. I think I'm gonna buy some new ignition coils bc these seemed pretty old. If anyone has any other advice or tips id appreciate it.
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My first thought is, don’t. Coils seldom go bad. Plug wires go bad over time so I’d start there.

At least you have it turning over now.
 

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please clarify when you say ' I can hear it cranking a little bit but it still won't startup. ' is it cranking at normal speed and won't start or just cranking slowly, or stops cranking or ??
Totally agree a coil has no moving parts and should not wear out or fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
please clarify when you say ' I can hear it cranking a little bit but it still won't startup. ' is it cranking at normal speed and won't start or just cranking slowly, or stops cranking or ??
Totally agree a coil has no moving parts and should not wear out or fail.
Basically, when the RUN button is pressed I hear the starter motor turning the chain that's around it but I don't really hear anything other than that
 

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You may have a defective solenoid (among other things). Disconnect the 2 large cables on it. One that goes to the starter, and one that goes to the battery. Then take an ohm reading at the 2 cable connections. The reading should be zero.
 
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You may have a defective solenoid (among other things). Disconnect the 2 large cables on it. One that goes to the starter, and one that goes to the battery. Then take an ohm reading at the 2 cable connections. The reading should be zero.
You mean the smaller gauge wires, for the coil circuit. The battery and starter post should be infinity.

I am assuming we are talking about this or something like it.
A couple things, with a second person, put your hand on the start solenoid. have that person push the start button several times, you should be able to feel and hear the clicking. If you do, the next thing would be to connect one meter lead to battery negative, check that you have positive volts at the solenoid, now connect your positive lead on the starter side, either you got voltage there or you don't. It is possible to have a open on the starter armature, it works sometimes and then it doesn't, also I have seen commutators that were out of round and brushes stuck in the brush box, a certain point and it works. I think this could be a 1 in 100,000 possibility, so I very much doubt it.


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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
I'm thinking that tomorrow I'm gonna test the spark on it to make sure it's in working order then I really think my battery isn't strong enough for this bike. I charge it up to 100% with my trickle charger but when it is hooked up and I'm running my tests whenever I try pressing start I notice my lights start on the dash started to go dim or turn off and I'm guessing it's not giving enough juice to the starter motor to crank it strong enough to turn the engine. Would it be ok for me to hook a car battery onto it to give it a boost? Or do I risk frying the circuits?
 

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I'm thinking that tomorrow I'm gonna test the spark on it to make sure it's in working order then I really think my battery isn't strong enough for this bike. I charge it up to 100% with my trickle charger but when it is hooked up and I'm running my tests whenever I try pressing start I notice my lights start on the dash started to go dim or turn off and I'm guessing it's not giving enough juice to the starter motor to crank it strong enough to turn the engine. Would it be ok for me to hook a car battery onto it to give it a boost? Or do I risk frying the circuits?
A really quick test. Connect a meter across your battery. Before you post anything, measure the VDC while the trickle charger is hooked up. 6 hours should be enough on a good battery.
Next take the charger off. Leave your meter connected. 12.79 to 12.9 is a good reading. What you do next, is short across your start solenoid. Have your meter visible, we are trying for 6 to 10 second run time. The volts DC should be around 11.0 VDC. A fully charged battery should be able to handle 4 tries like this. 6 to 10 seconds on and 1 minute off. If you get 10 volts or less , your battery is done. However that reading with the charger attached, may be a case of never fully charging it.
One other thing, someone with a identical bike could follow my post and post the vdc.

Many times, a suggestion by members to get your battery tested. Well you have a accurate means using your starter. My Versys draws 50 amp at 11 volts. And that is shorting the start solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
A really quick test. Connect a meter across your battery. Before you post anything, measure the VDC while the trickle charger is hooked up. 6 hours should be enough on a good battery.
Next take the charger off. Leave your meter connected. 12.79 to 12.9 is a good reading. What you do next, is short across your start solenoid. Have your meter visible, we are trying for 6 to 10 second run time. The volts DC should be around 11.0 VDC. A fully charged battery should be able to handle 4 tries like this. 6 to 10 seconds on and 1 minute off. If you get 10 volts or less , your battery is done. However that reading with the charger attached, may be a case of never fully charging it.
One other thing, someone with a identical bike could follow my post and post the vdc.

Many times, a suggestion by members to get your battery tested. Well you have a accurate means using your starter. My Versys draws 50 amp at 11 volts. And that is shorting the start solenoid.
can you give another explanation im a little lost in the electrical wizardry
 

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So, 90% of all my posts are electrical. I have seen and responded to thousands of posts where some member has suggested the battery is the problem. So what does 90% of the members do, after 10 posts they go out and buy a new battery, 5% of those, they still have a problem. Time and effort put in, plus$$$ , it gets frustrating. So I have come up with a simple way, every member can use, right in front of them, as long as they have a meter. Fuly charged volts with tender connected gives a base line as to charging, a second reading after waiting 10 minutes-which could be 10 minutes after a ride, measure the VDC. Next I used a 10 gauge wire, 8 would be better and if not that, you could use a heavy screwdriver to short the solenoid. Or you could use the battery positive and connect a 16 gauge wire and a ground on the coil circuit of the solenoid .
What we are doing is using a fixed known load, the Starter, and measuring VDC while using that fixed load. This forum could start a model thread and have each model with a VDC using the starter.

That is what I did.

So in the photo, I have a battery load tester meant for a car, the meter on the left is reading VDC the Fluke 189 is reading current DC, the clamp in the photo is a Hall effect amp probe, and has 88.9 amp DC.

I then used the starter, shorting the start solenoid, this way no lights or any other unknown load. I don't have a photo, but I measured 50 amp DC and my VDC was actually 11.29 to 11.41 VDC under a 10 second run time.

So if you have a fully charged battery, hook up a meter and follow my post doing 4 cycles. You could then do a post-As my example, Kawasaki Versys 2015, you should have 11.29 to 11.49 using strictly your starter, no key on power. If you have that, your battery is good.

If it is much lower or you can't even get 10 seconds-one of two things, your battery is done or your charger is screwed-I would put my money on the battery being tired-time to put out to pasture.

Note the load tester isn't meant to be under load for 10 seconds-it is red hot and I was pushing it!!




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