hi, it's great having goals and boundless enthusiasm you just have to make sure you keep a view of the whole picture and avoid falling into the trap of it becoming an obsession. keep sight of the goals but also remember what has to be given up in order to achieve them. for example.
note for @bpe
(this is an analogy not a political statement
) a government decides to go all green and totally commits to it, to do so they have remove all none renewables and obtain renewables instead. ok fine, but getting rid of one type before having a replacement that will in the end have greater capacity than they started with would be a disaster. it has to be done slowly increasing the preferred method first then cutting back on the none preferred method or it doesn't work.
So to begin the process you need a baseline, what you have before you start what you will have when finished, and how you go about getting from one point to the other without creating issues.
IMHO you missed the first goal, that is what is your start point you don't really know, it's only an estimate not a true measurement you cannot assume weight loss without measurement I believe you have over estimated the beginning weigh by quite a bit given that you determine the start weight at 430-440lbs
(199kg) preferring the greater weight.
the best weight I could find on the Kawasaki site for the US model (gen 2) was 388
-395lbs (176kg) a difference of 45lbs min, but without doing a whole bike weight (on a weighbridge) before starting it's impossible to say. also if your bike came to you without fairings it already weighed less than stock.
in order to accurately measure the total weight loss you need weigh every part removed and new weight of the replacement that seems missing. some items you are lucky if it saves a few ounces or even grams. don't get preoccupied with very small amounts that will make zero difference in the end.
the other word of caution comes on a different front to make it quicker or (faster) through weight loss is due to the formula BHP per ton, what was your starting HP do you know. was it measured. this is important for the overall effect or end game, the published figure of 60bhp is in general bogus some bikes (properly setup and tuned) may produce high 50's many well used or (poorly maintained ones) will only produce low 50's I think the last time the gen 1 was tested, (about 2 years ago) it was at best 54.5bhp (@89.000miles) so to be expected. but still 6bhp down on the published figure. or put it another way how much weight is 6bhp worth.
don't forget this part of the equation it matters, so might how you arrange the gearing, less weight more HP may pull higher gearing that sort of thing. on this topic I know a guy who had a Honda CB500 the engine gave out so he thought it was a win pulling it out and fitting a 550engine 20hp more what not to like, but he forgot the new engine weighed 50% more plus the extra bits he needed to fit, the overall BHP per ton remained the same so all that work resulted in very little gain.
don't lose sight of the end game consider everything not just losing a few pounds you will get better results, overall
improvements in other areas can be just as effective, believe me I've been there many times.