[CountryBrat]

Hey guys,

I was on here a year ago now give or take with my swap into a go kart I got it running and driving last weekend. However lastnight I did a fresh oil change drove it for like 5 minutes opened her up in third gear and then it started bogging down same thing in second but once in first it acted better until it stalled about 500 ft later.
visually everything looks fine except for I cracked the oil drain bolt for shits and grins and my oil looks like chocolate milk (image below comparing to fresh oil).
it idles funny and inconsistently I’m thinking the head gasket may be allowing antifreeze and oil to mix and since antifreeze is too low once the motor got hot it started dying. Anyone able to confirm my assumption or guide me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it.

country bratt

 

[CountryBrat]

Also could anyone help me determine what year my motor is? I keep seeing something about there should be an engraving or something on the motor but idk.

 

[CountryBrat]

I would say your assumptions were correct. needs engine job doing if the head gasket hasn't gone (although this is most likely) the O ring seals on the cylinder liner have gone (only other place coolant can mix with oil) either way it's back to the drawing board.

Okay, then I am on the hunt for a new head gasket.
Thank you!

 

[CountryBrat]

the engine number is stamped on the top crankcase, you can reference this number with the Kawasaki data base for the exact year.
other than than that look at the engine, if it has only 4 fins on the head it's pre 89, if it has 5 it's after 89, then look at the centre bolt on the CCT if it's a 10mm head it's a gen 1 (pre 93) if it's 12mm head it's (post 94) to make absolutely certain screw out the top inspection bung on the timing case look at the rotor if it has exposed magnets it's a Gen 1 if their enclosed it's a gen 2 (post 94) after that it doesn't really matter as all gen 2 motors are the same.

The chain tensioner is defiantly an 11mm head. The head has 5 fins and the valve cover is a black color I don’t know if that means anything. I have another motor that the valve cover is silver. This motors code is ex500ae118423. I just need to know if it’s gen 1 or 2 while working on this thing. Pretty sure the generational parts are going to be different.

 

[CountryBrat]

are you using the bog standard EX wiring and CDI, if so look if the box has a single plug or 2 plugs attached to it.

If I’m understanding correctly my cdi box has two separate pigtails going to it.

 

[CountryBrat]

then it's a gen 2.

Okay thank you. Time to spend too much money on seals. I figure get the head gasket and the valve cover gasket both replaced. So looking at 75 bucks probably.

 

[CountryBrat]

hi, @CountryBrat a question for you (may pose this to others) when looking for an engine to put in a buggy, cart. snowmobile, boat, or whatever else, what made you choose the EX500 engine for the job, been meaning to ask this for a long time but never got round to it.
considering the hassle of weight, water cooling, problems with carburation and wiring why the EX ???.
there must be dozens of alternative engines out there far better suited to the task. lighter air cooled less carb issues and simple wiring. so what makes the EX the surprise go to engine for this type of mod.

Okay so personally speaking I love a challenge. This project was sold to me half done, a basket case, and the price was right. I was on market place looking for a new quad came across this for $500 and it came with almost everything to finish the job. I didn’t even know that this had been done before until I already had the project and started doing my research. Now I agree that there are a lot of monkey wrenches being tossed in causing problems and heartaches but at the end of the day I love a good challenge.

 

[CountryBrat]

now I do have another question. With my current situation if it was the head gasket shouldn’t the pipes be bellowing a fog like smoke?

 

[CountryBrat]

It usually results in the engine overheating with coolant spewing out the reservoir overflow.
Before changing a head gasket review this thread>Lapping the head to repair a head gasket

So that is the right way to do it. But can’t I just get gasket maker at this point and torque the head to spec and voila. Or is that too far in the wrong direction?

 

[CountryBrat]

Okie dokie. How exactly would I determine that without removing the head? I have very limited tools and knowledge.

 

[CountryBrat]

water passing through the oil seal against oil pressure in un Lilly.
‘also oil passin a head gasket that doesn’t pass water is also un likely
the last place and more suspect is a cracked cylinder bore, the alum part .

Fog

The head gasket is replaced cylinders look fine but for shits and giggles I pulled the propeller off the water pump shaft and pulled that back plate off and everything has oil residue all over it. The coolest drained from the drain bolt down to the shaft and everything under that back plate.

 

[CountryBrat]

Also, my naïve self came out earlier today. I cleaned off my bench that had my parts layed out on it for a quick five minute project… long story short I mixed up my cams and my marks didn’t stay. Anybody able to help me get the right cam with the right orientation where it belongs?