[CountryBrat]

It usually results in the engine overheating with coolant spewing out the reservoir overflow.
Before changing a head gasket review this thread>Lapping the head to repair a head gasket

So that is the right way to do it. But can’t I just get gasket maker at this point and torque the head to spec and voila. Or is that too far in the wrong direction?

 

[bpe]

If you're going to remove the head for any reason, you should resurface it before reinstalling.
I think you still need to determine whether or not you even have a leaking head gasket.

 

[CountryBrat]

Okie dokie. How exactly would I determine that without removing the head? I have very limited tools and knowledge.

 

[bpe]

Were you the one that put the oil in that turned to chocolate milk? (Or did you buy it that way?)
Have you seen the engine overheat and have coolant spewing out the reservoir overflow?

 

[JohnTheBiker]

It could be the

Hey guys,

I was on here a year ago now give or take with my swap into a go kart I got it running and driving last weekend. However lastnight I did a fresh oil change drove it for like 5 minutes opened her up in third gear and then it started bogging down same thing in second but once in first it acted better until it stalled about 500 ft later.
visually everything looks fine except for I cracked the oil drain bolt for shits and grins and my oil looks like chocolate milk (image below comparing to fresh oil).
it idles funny and inconsistently I’m thinking the head gasket may be allowing antifreeze and oil to mix and since antifreeze is too low once the motor got hot it started dying. Anyone able to confirm my assumption or guide me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it.

country bratt
View attachment 57714

It could be the head gasket. Though if the engine has sat for a long period of time it could be moisture build up in the top end. My 2014 ex650 was that way on cool humid days. Oil would look like a late until the oil reach 140°f or so. I would go through all the checks. Carb pre-mix (2 turns out is the standard), valve clearance, coolant level check. If all of those are in tolerance I'd price all the gaskets and parts for a top end rebuild and make plans. It be good to drain the coolant and see if there is oil in the coolant. If you can get it to idle check the charging system and ohm out the coils as well.

 

[Zinja]

Coolant and oil can also be mixing at the oil seal behind the water pump on the right front side of the engine at the counterbalance shaft.

 

[bpe]

Though if the engine has sat for a long period of time it could be moisture build up in the top end.

That's where I was leaning. Reason I'm wondering about the history of the oil.

 

[fog]

water passing through the oil seal against oil pressure in un Lilly.
‘also oil passin a head gasket that doesn’t pass water is also un likely
the last place and more suspect is a cracked cylinder bore, the alum part .

Fog

 

[CountryBrat]

water passing through the oil seal against oil pressure in un Lilly.
‘also oil passin a head gasket that doesn’t pass water is also un likely
the last place and more suspect is a cracked cylinder bore, the alum part .

Fog

The head gasket is replaced cylinders look fine but for shits and giggles I pulled the propeller off the water pump shaft and pulled that back plate off and everything has oil residue all over it. The coolest drained from the drain bolt down to the shaft and everything under that back plate.

 

[CountryBrat]

Also, my naïve self came out earlier today. I cleaned off my bench that had my parts layed out on it for a quick five minute project… long story short I mixed up my cams and my marks didn’t stay. Anybody able to help me get the right cam with the right orientation where it belongs?