Neutral light on aftermarket gauges

1423 Views 10 Replies 4 Participants Last post by yorkie, May 13, 2022

ctrl

Discussion Starter · May 6, 2022 (Edited)

So the green wire to the guages neutral light is actually a neutral so hooking it to a regular light is unlikely to work. Im not sure the best solution but mine was to attach a simple single pole dual throw (SPDT) relay wired the following way. Hope this helps someone.

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yorkie

· #2 · May 6, 2022

hi, there is no reason to overthink this, the neutral light is part of the lockout safety switch system. the power for the bulb is in the cluster, the switch is just the earth point that lights the bulb by grounding it.
on the gen2 I do not have any safety switches as I slimmed down the main harness to build the cruiser. but still have the neutral light, because the power for it is built into the gauges (ER500 stock cluster).
so whether the neutral indicator (in a aftermarket set) would work depends on where the power for it comes from.
a standard bulb or LED would work if the power is provided to the bulb from the ignition circuit and the output wire is connected to the switch to ground it.

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yorkie

· #4 · May 7, 2022

ctrl said:
If you have access to both leads. I bought a simple 2240:60 speedometer with a neutral, high beam, and turn signal indicator integrated that has a single negative lead for all lighting. This guage is looking for a positive on neutral whicb my clumbsy solution provides.

Ok if it works for you guess that is fine. but in my logical mind. I can't see any issues to solve.
because, if you are not using the stock clockset you will still have the plug ends on the main harness that went to it, all the positive and negative wires you need are right there in those plugs (which BTW are standard configuration plugs available at most auto suppliers) just feed those wires to the new clock job done.
the other puzzling thing to me is why use a standard 4TR (4 terminal relay) and override the relay by joining both power wires to the same source, (keeping the relay energised) it's not what a relay is designed for. one positive wire direct to the bulb would have worked just fine.
I don't have a US diagram handy but on (UK) models the bulb wiring is.
1. clock illumination in, red/blue, out black and yellow.
2. indicators left green in black/yellow out, right grey in black/yellow out.
3. main beam red/black in black/yellow out
4. oil light brown in blue/red out
5. neutral switch brown in light green out.
all those wires are there in the plug ends, the majority of the bulbs are power in earth out but the oil light and neutral light are power in and respective power out to the switches. the best wiring solutions are always the simplest.

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yorkie

· #6 · May 7, 2022

AHHH, Ok I see cheap cost cutting Chinese utility wiring crap. all the ones I've seen had 2 wires for each bulb usually connected to a block. on the end of the wires. 3 wires for the tacho (as stock) basically plug and play once you have configured the correct wires. carry on I'm sure you will figure it out.

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yorkie

· #11 · May 13, 2022

onewizard said:
I am going to assume that when in neutral the contact is closed and anything with a positive feed is powered up by this switch. About $00.60

yeah the neutral switch is plunger type earth point for the light. when in neutral the plunger is pushed closing the switch (or visa versa I can't remember off hand) and allowing the power through to earth (via the case) that lights it up. when any gear is selected, the plunger releases and the contact is opened. (for instance) if you pull the wire off the switch and earth it out the light comes on.

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Neutral light on aftermarket gauges

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