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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
And now the Streetfighter version:

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Er-5 Gauge Set & Headlight Bracket.

Changing Coils to one piece: Already in progress.
Need Chrome, Round headlight bucket and light.

Anyone designed, made L shaped covers for coolant bottle on right side, and thermostat housing on left?
Or is it easier to move those units under the tank? Any Pictures?

Cheers!
 

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recognise the headlight and clock set. nice work. (y) yes you can move them inside there is just enough room if placed in the right position. the issue of piping can be solved with universal bendy silicon pipe.
sorry no photos as I went a different route. using a ER thermostat housing that fits onto the head where the cooling tubes go. and a trident expansion bottle. photo below.
sorry about the mess under there it was the first prototype attempt. you may also notice the coil over plugs and the 1 ohms resistors. these are not required however so where deleted when reconfiguring the under tank.
please note I was using a ER fuel tank so the thermostat housing fit nicely it would not work however with the flat bottomed EX tank (just thought I mention that)
52722
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Finally, the cousins headed south for the winter, leaving enough room in the garage for the Winter Teardown Extravaganza.

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2 Shelves, 6 boxes, and some floor space.

Motor fell out pretty easily; plenty to do, cosmetic, and replacement. Need to comp test
the replacement motor, and tinker with the cct, check valve adjust, and block off plates.
Already have replacement chain, sprockets, rear shock, and some other stuff too!

Cheers!
 

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me too (y) BTW. did you ever bother/manage to remove the fuel gauge out of the clock set and insert the temp gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
me too (y) BTW. did you ever bother/manage to remove the fuel gauge out of the clock set and insert the temp gauge.
On the list of things to do, along with moving coolant tank, and coolant filler/thermostat housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
When things go wrong...

How many times have I advised: check compression, check compression!?
Well, I should have followed my own advice. What are the odds that a 19K mile motor would exhibit compression problems?

My spare motor purchased as part of a low mileage parts bike:

Right side: 170 psi
Left side: 125 psi

2d try:

Right side: 170 psi
Left side: 105 psi

3d try:

Right side: 170 psi
Left side: 100 psi

Okay, don't bother to guess what's wrong with the left cylinder, valve adjustments are okay;
I'm guessing scorched piston, or too much carbon buildup on valve seat(s).

We'll know tomorrow, when I remove the cylinder head and cylinder.

Cheers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Teardown...

Easy enough to remove cams, cylinder head and cylinder.

Piston not scorched, but check out the dark patterns in the cylinder:
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So, sometime in it's past, it was rusted, seized, and someone came along and un-seized it, either with the starter or by turning the crankshaft.
Friction cleared the rust/corrosion, but could not undo the rust damage. Piston has one small scuff on it, probably sandable and usable, but I
doubt that honing will clear the cylinder, rust can burrow through steel in amazing ways..

The bigger problem was with the exhaust valves, neither one is meeting the seat, and probably hasn't met the seat for quite awhile.
I filled the combustion chambers with gasoline, and the left side just poured out the exhaust port. Right side okay.
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Sorry about picture quality, but my ex got all the photography equipment in the settlement.
I might be able to lap them back in, otherwise it would require work at the machine shop to correct.

Not ready to decide, but I might just re-use the original motor, 36,000 miles, starts and runs great!
Cams a little rough, but I can swap the cams from the spare motor.

Cheers!
 

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that's a shame when your in the middle of a rebuild. but TBH I have seen and worked on far worse resurrections than that with a bit of work it should be fine. the bores don't look too worn a good honing a set of new rings. you may be surprised then give the head a good working over with a little (cough) porting and re profiling re cut the seats and grind the valves could be a good motor again considering the mileage on it. maybe a project for later when the bikes rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I appreciate the positivity, thanks.
I might run a small hone in there and see how it cleans up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I was so glad when the cousins cleared out, and I'm making good progress on her winter teardown/rebuild extravaganza.
Then the inevitable knock on the door, and look who's here, her dirty little brother from parts unknown.
At first glance I thought he was a mugging victim:


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Gonna need some work on this one, for sure!
I'll be in the garage until May, Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
A couple of days in the garage, and I have a whole new outlook, anything's possible!
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2006 Kawasaki Ex500 Ninja, sat for at least 3 years in the Central Valley area of California. Parts of the wiring harness were toasted by the weather.

Not running quite right, yet. You know that complaint we hear, starts and runs, but bogs out sometimes like it's not getting gas; sometimes goes good on full throttle.

I'm using a known good set of carbs to rule them out.
Cleared out the two little plastic pieces in the gas cap.
Forgot what to do with the two spigots under the front of the California tank, so I plugged both of them.
Removed the canister, but left the "gulp valve" connected with vacuum line to right carb???
Using suspect Amazon petcock, not vacuum operated.
Might swap out original OEM petcock tomorrow?

Hope I'm not chasing something simple like fouled spark plugs. Will change those tomorrow.
Might run in and check valve adjustments; engine does sound pretty quiet...

Cheers!
 

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You're only supposed to cap one of the spigots on the tank. Let the one towards the front vent.


17.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Fixed!

I didn't realize how crucial the fit of the air cleaner tubes, I thought they would work, but no.
Swapped out the airbox with my other one, runs fine.
I think the air cleaner tubes might still be available, OEM?

Also, swapped out the aftermarket bad-fit petcock.
Replaced bent Rt H/Bar, and lubed throttle assembly.

During test ride surprised me with total rear brake failure.
I don't use the rear brake much, but sometimes in town at a stop light... but no rear brake whatsoever!
Will check it tomorrow, have a spare rear brake setup sitting around somewhere in the garage.

Ordered up some aftermarket turn signals.
Picking up 130/80-17 Pirelli tire tomorrow.

Good progress, might sell as cosmetic special, "you sand and paint it" bargain price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Parts of the wiring harness were toasted by the weather, especially at the rectifier/regulator connection. Result: no charging!

Replacing wire harness, rectifier/regulator. Should charge...
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Okay! Charging between 14.1 and 14.3
Waiting for warm sunny day for brief ride into the local hills, and possibly paint on side covers.
 

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Parts of the wiring harness were toasted by the weather, especially at the rectifier/regulator connection. Result: no charging!

Replacing wire harness, rectifier/regulator. Should charge...
it is doubtful that connection has burned due to weather more likely damage is due to faulty RR seems to be a common fault caused by over heating of the white wire (main feed) this melts the plastic connector and causes a cascade effect destroying the whole charge circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Moved the Thermostat Housing/Filler under tank; installed Ignition Coils; quite fancy plumbing:

53937


Cleans up the right side rather nicely:

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Cleans up the left side too, but can't avoid the 1 radiator hose:

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Can't find a good position for a coolant overflow tank; here's one idea, but if it gets any further back, it'll be on the next bike behind me!

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Here's a first look at one piece handlebars:

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Waiting for a few more pieces: battery, clutch cable, spark plugs, coolant. Should be back on the road this week.

Cheers!
 
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