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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 00 500R left me stranded last night. I was about 3 miles from home and it backfired/stalled but then restarted because I was moving and in gear (45-50 mph) but did it again about 30 seconds later and then a third time another 30 seconds later and it didn't restart so I coasted to the side of the road. When I tried to restart it I noticed it had no power at all, no neutral light, blinkers, horn literally no electric power. A passerby offered to help and put a voltmeter on the battery terminals and they didn't read anything at all. main 30A fuse in the left side under the seat appeared good.


I pushed it the 3 miles home and had a new battery in the garage (the one in it was only 4 months old and I had accidently bought two so I had a spare) so I put it in and still nothing. No headlight, horn, blinkers no sign of life at all. I was frustrated after pushing it 3 miles home and figured I should sleep on it and try again tonight.


Can anyone point me in the right direction, I was thinking for it to have no power at all with a new battery maybe the main ground is loose or corroded. The bike only has 8500 miles, near perfect condition and aside from a 2-1Delkevic its pretty bone stock. I use it almost daily since spring and put about 2k miles on it so far with zero issues at all until last night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I checked all fuses, everything looks fine. I took the battery out and put the voltmeter on it and got 12.26 when i put it in the bike and connected it I got 0.00 at the battery terminals. I cleaned the terminals on the battery even though they looked fine and also cleaned the pos and neg ring connectors to the bike. Still 0.00 when connected to the bike, 12.26 when i disconnect the terminals and put the probes on the battery directly.
 

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Alternator failed a the engine/lights depleted the battery; charge battery and check alternator inside the left side cover. Should output 70 volts @ 4000 rpm

Fog
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank Fog. My issue is that when i connect the battery to the bike I get 0.00v yet if i disconnect the ring terminals and put the probes directly on the battery it gives me 12.23v so i cant get it started, I cant get any sign of life out of the bike. I tried with two different batteries both have over 12v before i put it in the bike and both give 0.00 once connected.
 

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And they both give you 12v again when you pull them out and check them? If your batteries have voltage outside the bike and as soon as you put them in a different circuit reading 0 immediately you have electricity draining off somewhere it shouldn't.

0's generally mean short circuit, so I'd start looking for one.

You said you checked your main fuse, gotta ask did you check the active fuse or the spare?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Jetbiker. I checked the 30A on the left side in the red plastic clip. It looked good but i replaced it anyway then checked all the ones in the junction box that sits on top of the battery. The batteries are both charged and as a control I tried one on my R1 and it fired right up, back in the 500R and 0.00 and no juice at all through the bike. I suspect that something was vibrating and broke a wire or a plug vibrated loose, must be a main circuit because the bike literally has no electric power at all. Should I start with new battery terminals and work my way back ? I was hoping with the age of these bikes any problems I came across would be common issues.
 

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Diagnosing from afar is difficult but you're surmising of a broken/bad connection somewhere is obviously valid.

Employing a 2nd set of hands (or clamp type terminals on the VM?) put the VM on the terminals and watch the display...while you physically grab and jostle the harness/terminals/connectors at various spots....perhaps something will become "live"...and enable you to "home in" on the trouble area.

The problem is intermittent....in this instance some physical "persuasion" may be called for in order to make/break the connection.
If left intact ...may be difficult (in a troubleshooting sense) to find.

I'd also look/inspect wiring right on up to the ignition switch too......jostle every connection by hand...see if she comes alive momentarily. This method...though "dumb"....may just reveal your troublesome area.

Frankly, I've used the method with success on finding and repairing an intermittent ground issue my Ducati....many other times on other bikes over the years too. Intermittent electrical can be tough to find.

Worth a shot....good luck.
 

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I can't give you a better method than above outside of dropping in a new harness and crossing your fingers.

I'd check all your easy connections first. I'm not familiar with the wiring layout, though I think have some of the plastic clips that hook up various odds and ends have to be plugged in to complete the main circuit.

If you have a wiring diagram, as much of a PITA that it's going to be, you would be able to cross reference it for all your circuits.

Good luck, electrical issues are the worst IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
some progress

under ignition.jpg

harness under tank.jpg

pair removal.jpg

I followed the advice given by ducatiman and jetbiker and have been tracking this short down all day. I traced it by checking voltage on each wire/connection until i saw the VM move. I traced it to the main harness under the tank, then wire by wire isolated it to the solid white wire that runs to the ignition switch. I took the time to finally install new plugs, air filter and pair removal kit while it was apart and i needed a break from checking wires and plugs with the VM one by one. If the ignition is off i get 12v if i switch it on i get 0.00 Does this mean I need a new ignition switch? it doesn't look like its easy to come out.
 

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I believe inside the factory service manual there exists a "pinout type" continuity check for the ignition switch. There are both ON and OFF position checks which could reveal switch integrity.

Perhaps someone with a gen 2 service manual could post the pinout. I believe you could perform the test without actually removing the switch.

Further...the switch can be taken apart (after removal) and the actual contacts exposed, cleaned and/or repaired as needed. The electrical contact area is separate from the lock cylinder area...of course, dual functions within the switch. There was a thread documenting switch breakdown/separation/repair here many years ago. I've actually done it on an EX myself....separation revealed badly corroded switch contacts which I was able to successfully repair.
 

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Is this not the pinout we are looking for?

Digging through my manual, I can't find any tests other than for the coils under the electric sections...Can't find anything related to the ignition switch itself actually.
 

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zoning in on the switch portion of the diagram...yes, probably all that is needed to further diagnosis.
 

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With the ignition switch on there should be continuity between BR-W-GY, and BL-R, and W/BK-W/G. In parking light mode there should be continuity between W-R, and W/BK-W/G. There should not be any continuity when in the off position. This applies to modal years through 2002, it changes in 2003.
 

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go get 'em, OP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys, As i was searching for this short I found when I unplugged the harness for the ignition the voltmeter registered voltage again. I made a jumper and tested each wire from that plug and the white one was the culprit. That pinout says the white wire goes from the ignition to the Reulator/Rectifier. When I unglugged the rectifier earlier i still had 0.00v but when I unplugged the harness where the ignition is i got 12v back. I think i am going to buy an ignition switch and see if that gives me juice again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I got a brand new (OEM) ignition switch ($130) and nothing still. Tried a brand new (OEM) regulator ($150) and nothing. I put my hands up, I'm going to put it back together, take it to a shop and ask how much to repair then decide if its worth repairing.
 

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I had a similar issue but the ignition fuse kept blowing. a wire had shorted to the metal bracket at the forward tank mount. check all the wiring for open and shorts. they all rub on the mount and you will have to remove the tape around them and visually look for damage.
isolate each section by disconnecting the connectors nearby checking for bat volts. should help you narrow down which wires you need to check. might help to remove the fuses one at a time also.
I think you are very close to finding the issue. maybe have a friend help you.
 

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you mention the white wire follow it back to the battery or j box or wherever it goes. find the other end and disconnect it from there. check continuity on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the input neumannzz. I'm frustrated but I will cool off in a few days and give that a shot and the wiring a thorough once over before I send it to a shop. I'm shocked a bike with 8500 miles would give me trouble, in comparison my R1 has 35k (I had it since 10k), she has never failed me once in 25k HARD miles. I hope its something silly that I'm overlooking because I really do like this bike.
 
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