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Discussion Starter #21
the yellow wire is from the new ignition barrel i bought and that's a spare wire when its all connected so i think that's the Jen 1 u was taking about
 

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You have it wired inncorectly.

Leave the blue and red connections as they are.
Disconnect the rest from each other on the switch loom.
Disconnect the white and brown wires from each other from bike the loom.

Connect the white wire from the bike loom to the white wire from the switch loom.
Connect the brown wire from the bike loom to the brown wire from the switch loom.
Connect the yellow wire from the switch loom to the remaining wire from the bike loom.

Try that.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
You have it wired inncorectly.

Leave the blue and red connections as they are.
Disconnect the rest from each other on the switch loom.
Disconnect the white and brown wires from each other from bike the loom.

Connect the white wire from the bike loom to the white wire from the switch loom.
Connect the brown wire from the bike loom to the brown wire from the switch loom.
Connect the yellow wire from the switch loom to the remaining wire from the bike loom.

Try that.
Ok mate ill give it ago. cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #25
is the rest of the harness ok
its all shambles mate as you can see. When i picked it up the guy said to me all it will need is a new ignition barrel you have a very clean and sought after bike here.
 

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yeah they do say that. Guy I bought mine off said it probably just needed a battery and a carb clean was running perfectly when it was parked 6 years ago. yeah of course it was 8mths and a complete rebuild later. I had a running bike. LOL
no what I'm getting at is the part of the harness that is butchered. it is just the either end of the ignition connector or does the damage go further or beyond that bit.

edit. the new barrel you have is a gen 1 because of the yellow wire. gen 2 barrels do not have a yellow wire. it is grey.
wiring connections on the gen 2 at that connector are as follows :- 1. brown to brown 2. white to white. 3. grey to grey. 4 blue to the red with blue trace. 5. red to red.

further the yellow wire on the gen 1 goes to the stop switch
the grey on the gen 2 goes directly to the igniter (cdi)
I believe if the yellow is designated as the grey wire IE; yellow to grey it completes the circuits from the switch BUT you still need the 100oms resistor between the wires.
 

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Gen2 ('94-'09) upper triple. Might even scour eBay for a good unhacked wiring harness and swap the whole mess over.
 

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Gen2 ('94-'09) upper triple. Might even scour eBay for a good unhacked wiring harness and swap the whole mess over.
that would be the best solution if the whole wiring was trashed. but we have not yet discovered how much damage was done often simple solutions are better. if a new connector and a 100oms resistor will cure it. buying the whole lot to replace potentially serviceable parts isn't the best way forwards for a very cheap bike.
 

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I pay $10-20 dollars for good un-cut harnesses. Wiring is the easiest to mess up and the most difficult to troubleshoot. Amateur repairs are rather likely to stop you beside the road at the most inopportune moment. Just saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
yeah they do say that. Guy I bought mine off said it probably just needed a battery and a carb clean was running perfectly when it was parked 6 years ago. yeah of course it was 8mths and a complete rebuild later. I had a running bike. LOL
no what I'm getting at is the part of the harness that is butchered. it is just the either end of the ignition connector or does the damage go further or beyond that bit.

edit. the new barrel you have is a gen 1 because of the yellow wire. gen 2 barrels do not have a yellow wire. it is grey.
wiring connections on the gen 2 at that connector are as follows :- 1. brown to brown 2. white to white. 3. grey to grey. 4 blue to the red with blue trace. 5. red to red.

further the yellow wire on the gen 1 goes to the stop switch
the grey on the gen 2 goes directly to the igniter (cdi)
I believe if the yellow is designated as the grey wire IE; yellow to grey it completes the circuits from the switch BUT you still need the 100oms resistor between the wires.
i have the other barrel now with all the same wires ill try it your way if it doesnt work shall i connect the new barrel to all the other matching colours?
 

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Well,I've yet to see...other than OEM @£150...an ignition switch listed with a grey wire. A quick look around the top MC parts suppliers and Ebay does not show any.



All aftermarket switch harness's listed for the EX/GPZ as far as I can determine show a yellow wire. The colour of the wire in the switch loom means nothing, where it connects to does.

Just saying, nowt ment


OP,

Are you going to chop off the multiplug of a new switch before knowing for certain that it the switch that is the problem,?

Do what I said before and see if you have a spark, if not, “then” solder in a resisitor between the Brown and the "Yellow" wire and see if you have a spark.

Once you have ascertained whether either way works, then you can modify (if you want) your new switch to the same and fit it.

I would hope that if you are not intending to use multiplugs to join the 2 looms together that you would stagger the joints/solder them, and heat shrink them before sealing with an outer wraping of at least insulation tape or better still loom wraping tape.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
i have got the new barrel fitted now thou when i try start the bike it smokes from one side of the battery? is that a bad earth maybe a cdi problem i carnt find the same cdi box the the fuse box at the back im baffled now
 

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Where abouts are you located, maybe there is someone close'ish who could give you a hand.

Is this the new ER5 switch that has the battery smoking,?

Make sure the leads are clean (use vaseline) and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
im from grimsby Lincolnshire. yes its only happening with the original wired barrel'
 
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