see wiki...adjust your valves

 

How long does it take to do the adjustment? Since it's crappy weather this weekend I'm going to commandeer my friend's garage.

I guess I might as well change the coolant. Anything else I should do while at it?

 

Get the o-rings from your local ACE hardware that the WIki recommends since you'll be pulling the tubes. My 1998's were flattened out and not pliable, and the only thing really sealing the tubes was the gunk that had built up against the o-rings. No sense in going through what I did to fix the leak.

 

How long does it take to do the adjustment? Since it's crappy weather this weekend I'm going to commandeer my friend's garage.

I guess I might as well change the coolant. Anything else I should do while at it?

It will take a few hours...be sure to read the wiki DO NOT DROP THE PINS IN THE MOTOR....take your time when lifting the valve cover and be very careful....you can do this...let us know how it turns out.

 

Easy as pie. Go. P/s I tried to slip check it without removing the front upper fairing and the igniter to

On the right side and it was hard as hell to remove. Even harder ;D installing back in. Just a little thought.

 

I'm scurd.....

Will I need any new gaskets? I don't seem to see any mention of that.

 

I'm scurd.....

Will I need any new gaskets? I don't seem to see any mention of that.

Unless you're not careful, or unlucky,, no - the valve cover gaskets are re-usable. Mine did have a little gasket sealant on the edges and at the tabs, but I didn't put any on to seal it up when I did it. But the o-rings (as gaskets)... yes, get two of those.

 

I did my first valve adjustment a few weeks ago, and it went very smoothly. Don't be afraid. Just do it. If you are mechanically inclined, or even so long as you know the difference a socket and a crescent, you'll be fine. It's your first, so just give yourself a solid afternoon to do it. No need to put yourself in a situation in which you feel rushed.

I'll even make it easy for you. Here's the two links you need.

http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php/Valve_clearance_adjustment
http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,122.0.html

P.S. - Have beer on hand. To congratulate yourself once you're done. (Or be like me and have it as Step 1: Open Beer )

 

Like sabnut said, its not hard. It took me like 2hrs max, from start to finish, to do mine. What slowed me down was trying to line up cylinder number 2, the cam kept spinning every time I let go of the crank.

Don't over torque the screws and bolts. Don't let anything fall into you r coolant holes or spark plug holes or the actual engine itself. Especially the infamous 2 dowels that is between the valve cover over and head.

 

I also agree with saabnut - while it takes riders/owners who have done such things before about 2 hours ... even easily less... don't count on it, don't put yourself in a position where you feel rushed.

Enjoy the process - even the setbacks - and approach Zen.

The mistake I made was that I knew I had a few tubes of superglue here at the house to glue in the dowel rods, but when it came time to do it I couldn't find my little super-glue tubes.

My dowels stuck well enough to put it back together.

Edit: the other mistake I made, of course, was trying to use the misshapen o-rings on the coolant tubes again. I knew they looked a little wonky / oval when I pulled them, and should just have found new ones right away.

 

One of my dowels was missing the first time. Turned into a n almost 2 day job with the oil pan, exhaust, radiator, + more removed before I found it in my piston chamber. Lucky me.

So when I said careful, its from personal exp. Skipping steps trying to short cut... didn't work out. ;D

 

Ok thanks guys. I'll give her a go. I'll post results when I'm done.

 

My engine also makes that noise. How important is the valve adjustment is it dangerous?

 

My engine also makes that noise. How important is the valve adjustment is it dangerous?

It is very important. is it dangerous? if they get to far out of spec it wont run correctly...and could damage the valve seats/valves

 

What would be a reasonable price to get the valves adjusted?

 

My local Kawasaki/Yamaha/Suzuki dealer charges like 240a bucks.

 

What would be a reasonable price to get the valves adjusted?

Oh, let's see... about $11 for a good feeler gauge (Craftsman with the bent ends), $3 for a quality flat-head screwdriver, $3 more for a Phillips screwdriver for the fuel line clamps, a wrench or two from your bike's tool kit, a plastic container (to catch the coolant you will drain out and probably put back in if it's clean) can be found free. Throw two NGK spark plugs in it since you're in there... $10(?), 2 o-rings from Ace Hardware for the coolant tubes ... $1.50(?), paper towels (not a whole roll) ~$.50,

So I'd say about $29? Less if you don't need plugs or already own good screwdrivers. Even that much less the next time since you will own all the tools... so subsequent valve adjustments would be about $.50 to $11 (coolant change).

Of course a ratchet and a few sockets - 10mm, maybe 8mm, and one for the fuel tanks' main bolt (14mm?) can help, but aren't needed if you have the tool kit.

 

Ok, so after work today I decided to start. I got as far as removing the copper oil lines. I ran out of daylight so I'll do the adjustment tomorrow and put her back together.

One problem I had is when I tried to pull the boot off the spark plug, the wire came out of the boot. It looks like it's just threaded on to what appears to be a screw inside the boot. Is that a normal thing that i can just screw back in or do I need new spark plug wires?

 

Ok, so after work today I decided to start. I got as far as removing the copper oil lines. I ran out of daylight so I'll do the adjustment tomorrow and put her back together.

One problem I had is when I tried to pull the boot off the spark plug, the wire came out of the boot. It looks like it's just threaded on to what appears to be a screw inside the boot. Is that a normal thing that i can just screw back in or do I need new spark plug wires?

Very normal - for Jap bikes. Very un-normal for automotive plug wires. Push it back in. See my experience with the same on my VN800:
http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=131577&postcount=1 , the pictures of which are mid-page.

 

Lol, yep. Looks exactly like that

 

Awesome! ;D

 

Well, valve adjustment is done! And most importantly the bike is running

I'll need to inspect for leaks tomorrow as I ran out of daylight again.

I've noticed that the ticking is still there (but as per wiki I'll have to give it some time). But it seems to idle more smooth and with a bit more RMP.

 

good job!

 

good job!

we think!

Legal Disclaimer: the call and arrival of a tow truck, pickup truck, or other motorcycle-carrying vehicle to a location where the bike is at in the next week hereby nullifies our congratulations. Any loss of power, parts, or liquids in the coming week negates all feelings of joy and "warm fuzzies" felt by the readers and suggestion-givers of this thread. No warranty is hereby expressed. Ne refunds or recants will be issued.

 

good job!

we think!

Legal Disclaimer: the call and arrival of a tow truck, pickup truck, or other motorcycle-carrying vehicle to a location where the bike is at in the next week hereby nullifies our congratulations. Any loss of power, parts, or liquids in the coming week negates all feelings of joy and "warm fuzzies" felt by the readers and suggestion-givers of this thread. No warranty is hereby expressed. Ne refunds or recants will be issued.

LMAO ;D

If its running...and that was the first valve adjustment the PO ever attempted...well ...that at least means he has the idea.