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Discussion Starter #1
So I ate pavement yesterday on my Vulcan S on my way to work, hit a patch of oil in a turn and it threw my wheel out and spun me around a few times but I'm good minus bruising and a whole one person made sure I was fine so that was nice.

I bent my shifting lever and broke the peg bracket off, the bike turns on and it did start but now when you try to start it it just lunges forward and shuts off. It also won't really move when you try to push it forward it'll move a few feet and feel like it's stuck then it'll give and move like another foot and stick again. And it seems like the chain is real loose feeling on the bottom but still tight on the top.
 

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Good that you survived with stuff that will heal up quickly. It's still in gear, for some reason. Loosen the bent lever, make sure it isn't binding on the case, then tighten it and search for neutral once again. If that does not work, pull the gear lever off and try another. There is the possibility that the gear lever shaft is bent. If that's the case, it's more serious - but mess around with the lever first.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good that you survived with stuff that will heal up quickly. It's still in gear, for some reason. Loosen the bent lever, make sure it isn't binding on the case, then tighten it and search for neutral once again. If that does not work, pull the gear lever off and try another. There is the possibility that the gear lever shaft is bent. If that's the case, it's more serious - but mess around with the lever first.
We got it in neutral and it moved but once we put it in first and pull the clutch the bike won't move at all.
 

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Sorry to hear about the mishap but glad you're ok. Hopefully you can find the cause of the clutch failing to disengage.
 

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Ouch! Glad you're OK.

Clutch-lever, perch, cable-adjuster, or cable is most likely out-of-adjustment or damaged and needs replacing.
 

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Yes, but how many millimeters does it pull cable down by clutch arm?

Problem is clutch is not disengaging when lever is pulled. There are multiple areas that can contribute to reduced cable pull. Might as well replace following to be sure they are within spec:

- clutch lever
- clutch lever perch
- clutch cable adjuster and lock-ring
- clutch cable (be sure to lube before installing)

Then after installing, need to adjust cable-tension so clutch is released fully when lever squeezed.
 

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Looks like everything is working fine in the video. If you have the proper free play at the lever, you may just have to remove the clutch cover and see if there is anything funky going on in there.
 

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Dumb question, but is the bike really in neutral (i.e. neutral light on)? There's a "false" neutral between each of the gears but it can fall into the next gear in either direction with just a slight nudge if its between gears. Just trying to cover all the bases here.

If the crash bent the shift lever, its possible the shifting mechanism inside the transmission was damaged and you aren't able to find the real neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dumb question, but is the bike really in neutral (i.e. neutral light on)? There's a "false" neutral between each of the gears but it can fall into the next gear in either direction with just a slight nudge if its between gears. Just trying to cover all the bases here.

If the crash bent the shift lever, its possible the shifting mechanism inside the transmission was damaged and you aren't able to find the real neutral.
Neutral light is on. We shifted it all the way down and popped it half up and the N light came on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
If I can shift with clutch pulled in, would that mean that it's at least partially working? When I pull the clutch I can shift it up and down but when you try to take off it acts like I have the clutch completely out. If I full on twist the throttle I can ride but if I stop it dies because when I pull in the clutch to come to a stop it just dies once I get to a low enough speed.

I'll look this long weekend at everything just trying to eliminate before I get into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, but how many millimeters does it pull cable down by clutch arm?

Problem is clutch is not disengaging when lever is pulled. There are multiple areas that can contribute to reduced cable pull. Might as well replace following to be sure they are within spec:

- clutch lever
- clutch lever perch
- clutch cable adjuster and lock-ring
- clutch cable (be sure to lube before installing)

Then after installing, need to adjust cable-tension so clutch is released fully when lever squeezed.
I'm planning to look at all that sweet stuff this weekend, I figured it might be but also figured I'd get some suggestions here from y'all.
 

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After reviewing all the back and forth, it sounds as though the clutch mechanism is still working but for whatever reason isn't getting full motion and isn't totally disengaging the clutch. I'd go over everything again, from the lever at the bars down to the lever on the case.

The only part I can think of that might be damaged without any visible evidence is the cable. If the crash stretched the outer cable, the system could lose motion as it had to compress the outer before it started to move the inner. As a cheap experiment try adjusting the cable way too tight (i.e. zero or even negative free play) and see if that makes things better. If so, a new cable will probably get you back to normal. That's the best I can come up with over the keyboard.
 

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As a cheap experiment try adjusting the cable way too tight (i.e. zero or even negative free play) and see if that makes things better. If so, a new cable will probably get you back to normal.
I like that idea. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Everything involving clutch cable and clutch are good.... So guess I might just have to take it to a mechanic somehow....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also, I put the shifter peg back on and found out that I can shift into first without pulling the clutch and that it won't shift into second at all now.
 

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It is not going to shift into 2nd unless the bike is moving.
 
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