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The top top rail i have plugged off .
This will restrict your fuel flow. It needs to be left uncapped, so it can vent to atmosphere.

Also your plug gap is wrong. Should be 0.6-0.7mm. Or 0.024-0.028".
 
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hi. from what you have written so far it seems your chasing ghosts many threads open with different issues that could not be issues at all or could all be issues. you need to stop and take a fresh look at it in a methodical set of steps.
testing and verifying each step as you go eliminating one before moving to the next.

if you have no experience I presume you do not as no one who did would trust a repair shop in any way .
low side you have been ripped off by someone who had no idea what they were doing and left it worse than it was and in bits. high side you have it back and we can help if you follow instructions and do thing in a methodical order one at a time. if you intend to get this bike running on your own you are going have to buy a few things spending yet more money and take time to do each job properly. stop chasing ghosts and concentrate on thing at a time.

leaking tank no easy answer on this one. you can try to repair it but might need a replacement it is worth trying but there is no guarantee it will succeed. I am surprised JB weld didn't fix it if it was done correctly I have repaired several with it.
the tank has to be empty and dry inside and out. scrub off all the old paint. rust to clean metal then apply it in one coat to the whole area about 1/8th thick and leave to cure (at least 36/48hrs) best done and left as long as possible a week is not too long. then turn the tank the right way up and add tank sealer (pet cock removed with hole blocked off ) and leave that to set. if it was me I would do this first then leave the tank while doing the the rest of the jobs.
if that does not fix it then it is a replacement tank. note here a good tank the wrong colour is better than one the right colour that leaks.

you got the starter working that is good and the battery is good is it fully charged it needs to be.
do you have a mulimeter if not you need one. a cheap one for a couple of bucks will do everything you need.
I am still not convinced you have the right ignition switch DID YOU TEST IT AS SUGGESTED it could be the start of your issues verify it works correctly and test the plugs are firing with them out of the engine and placed (connected) on top of the head the gap needs to be as @bpe quoted. if their not sparking it will not start and run.

as for the carbs you need some sort of remote fuel source (available at auto shops) not expensive and far easier to diagnose fuel delivery issues with out it all being block off with a fuel tank in the way it will also allow you to work on the bike while the fuel tank is under repair or while you wait for a replacement.

your connections to the carbs is not right the top rail is a vent pull off the pipe and bin it. it will stop the flow to the carbs due to pressurising them internally. you also need the remote source to verify you have fuel delivery and the carbs are working.

in summary you are doing too much to too many things all at the same time without knowing or verifying any of them. we call that chasing ghosts. never works never has never will I am really sorry this happened to you that shop is a disgrace but here you are. one thing at a time and then move on.
try and fix the tank first get a remote fuel source. then sort out the sparks them move on to the carbs it will run again if done correctly but this is going to take time some more cash and a lot of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
hi. from what you have written so far it seems your chasing ghosts many threads open with different issues that could not be issues at all or could all be issues. you need to stop and take a fresh look at it in a methodical set of steps.
testing and verifying each step as you go eliminating one before moving to the next.

if you have no experience I presume you do not as no one who did would trust a repair shop in any way .
low side you have been ripped off by someone who had no idea what they were doing and left it worse than it was and in bits. high side you have it back and we can help if you follow instructions and do thing in a methodical order one at a time. if you intend to get this bike running on your own you are going have to buy a few things spending yet more money and take time to do each job properly. stop chasing ghosts and concentrate on thing at a time.

leaking tank no easy answer on this one. you can try to repair it but might need a replacement it is worth trying but there is no guarantee it will succeed. I am surprised JB weld didn't fix it if it was done correctly I have repaired several with it.
the tank has to be empty and dry inside and out. scrub off all the old paint. rust to clean metal then apply it in one coat to the whole area about 1/8th thick and leave to cure (at least 36/48hrs) best done and left as long as possible a week is not too long. then turn the tank the right way up and add tank sealer (pet cock removed with hole blocked off ) and leave that to set. if it was me I would do this first then leave the tank while doing the the rest of the jobs.
if that does not fix it then it is a replacement tank. note here a good tank the wrong colour is better than one the right colour that leaks.

you got the starter working that is good and the battery is good is it fully charged it needs to be.
do you have a mulimeter if not you need one. a cheap one for a couple of bucks will do everything you need.
I am still not convinced you have the right ignition switch DID YOU TEST IT AS SUGGESTED it could be the start of your issues verify it works correctly and test the plugs are firing with them out of the engine and placed (connected) on top of the head the gap needs to be as @bpe quoted. if their not sparking it will not start and run.

as for the carbs you need some sort of remote fuel source (available at auto shops) not expensive and far easier to diagnose fuel delivery issues with out it all being block off with a fuel tank in the way it will also allow you to work on the bike while the fuel tank is under repair or while you wait for a replacement.

your connections to the carbs is not right the top rail is a vent pull off the pipe and bin it. it will stop the flow to the carbs due to pressurising them internally. you also need the remote source to verify you have fuel delivery and the carbs are working.

in summary you are doing too much to too many things all at the same time without knowing or verifying any of them. we call that chasing ghosts. never works never has never will I am really sorry this happened to you that shop is a disgrace but here you are. one thing at a time and then move on.
try and fix the tank first get a remote fuel source. then sort out the sparks them move on to the carbs it will run again if done correctly but this is going to take time some more cash and a lot of time.
I recently went out and bought a few things such as a multimeter ,solder and JB-Weld the last jb weld was apparently not intended for anything emersed in gas for long periods of time. I Dropped soldered on the few pinholes , then JB-Welded over and around the surrounding area 1/8 -1/4 inch thick let dry for 24 hours and tested that in Fact it Does not Leak.. Which in turn left me to moving onto the spark plugs .. i know they're brand new never used and adjusted to correct gap at 0.6mm yet it didnt have spark either considering it did before and that they are brand new even attempted to holding onto it while turning on& over with zero spark.. i used the multi meter on the ignition switch hooking to wires suggested and only got a reading of 1 .. i know you are more right about chasing ghosts, and perhaps the next best thing would be to use it as a boat anchor but its always been the best dependable bike ive owned never giving me any problems or leaving me stranded the entire 15 years ive owned it.. idk why the all the sudden problems when it Ran GREAT just prior to the ignition switch. I now have No spark, No Fuel from tank to carbs
 

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edit. yes it can be a PITA we have all been there. it is the main reason many projects never get finished. but annoying when it used to be so good. spoilt by some moron not knowing what they were doing. the fact it ran ok before you changed the switch gives a good indication of the issue. the rest is down to the repair shop.

anyway after that rant ok we are getting somewhere. your first issue is you have the wrong ignition switch. it is meant for a gen 1. I suspected as much due to the yellow wire. gen 2 are grey.
I will try to explain bear with me please read carefully. on the gen 1 the ignition wiring is a direct sensor system. you turn the ignition switch on power is fed down the yellow wire to the CDI the brown is the aux power feed for back ground voltage FROM the CDI. in a sort of loop. if the power drops (say down to 11v while cranking) the brown wire (sensing) cuts the feed to the coils from the CDI. this is the reason the bike will never start with a low battery and it's important that the battery is good and fully charged. that is on the gen 1.

now the GEN 2 is quite different. with the model change 94on it has a different CDI and also a anti tamper device (to prevent the bike being started by hot wiring) the loop is basically reversed the grey wire now becoming the sensor wire.
the CDI reads this wire for resistance (provided by a 100ohms resistor at the base of the ignition switch) if there is none it thinks the bike is being hot wired so cuts power to the coils to prevent starting.

this why the GEN 1 switch doesn't work on GEN 2 bikes as there is no resistor in it. note this has happened on numerous occasions nearly all the aftermarket switches are made for the GEN 1 with the yellow wire probably all come from the same Chinese factory. DUH.

so on to the issue. the good news is you can modify the the switch to work just fine by adding a 100ohms resistor between the brown and yellow wire (that is the test I asked you to do) your reading of 1 means no resistance confirming it is the wrong switch. you need to add a resistor to the loom from the switch to the connector strip back the outer sheath bear the inner core of both the yellow and brown wire and solder in one 100ohm resistor these are very cheap (a few cents) you can get one from radio shack or any TV repair place.
once soldered in place tape the joins and recover the loom. then by repeating the test on the terminals you should get a reading of between 98 and 103ohms. with the meter set at 0 to 200ohms. if all is correct you will find the plugs now spark when placed on the head. this the first job you now need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
2006 ninja EX500
I finally got the starter to turn over (wires were crossed).... put it all back together but went to start it but its not firing up.. i checked the fuel lines and it not pulling fuel from tank to carbs . I replaced all vaccum lines and in-line fuel filthers But wont start .. idk if its the carbs ,vaccum lines,petcock, or what?
Im assuming that the wires were crossed bc like i mentioned it ran great before I replaced the ignition switch . Once i installed the new ignition the lights would come on but nothing...... so i assume that after i got it back from the shop that they had tampered with it and got the starter wires crossed.. i reversed them and it sound like it was turning ovr ...
Is the petcock turned on? If the on position isn't working try reserve.
Petcock is on and flowing fuel when i unplug the lines
 

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If you had replaced the ignition switch but never got it to start right, you may have replaced it with the wrong one, which would have made it difficult for the shop to figure out if they didn't know that was just changed (and possibly with the wrong one). Just my 2 cents.
 

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If you had replaced the ignition switch but never got it to start right, you may have replaced it with the wrong one, which would have made it difficult for the shop to figure out if they didn't know that was just changed (and possibly with the wrong one). Just my 2 cents.
those were my exact thoughts :oops: I posted the the link to JC Grants thread on the subject although the circumstances are different. the outcome was the same there is a photo of the resistor in question and his statement that he could not find an aftermarket switch with the resistor present. except the OEM one from Kawasaki. both contained in the thread.

also this afternoon at great inconvenience I disconnected the ignition connector from both my bikes and tested them.
the gen 2 taking a reading between the brown and (grey wire because it is a gen 2 switch) got a reading of 99.73ohms.
the gen 1 taking a reading between the brown and (yellow wire because it is a gen 1 after market switch. nothing nada just shows no resistance or 1. exactly the reading the OP got.
 
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