[ex500az]

Just got off the Fram site thinking I would find a reference for the 500 oil filter, but nada.

Can anyone tell me what the proper Fram number would be?

My bike is now out of warranty and I'm tring to save some money and can't imagine the filters from my dealer aren't Fram any way.

If I'm wrong about all this please speak-up.

Thanks,

Weathers getting great, now riding alot.

 

[RichC10]

On the chance that this isn't a troll.....
Fram filters are crap. Anything else is better. I use a Bosch. Here is a lick to other good filters,
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

Rich

 

[ex500az]

Rich,

I appreciate your reply, never thought Fram was bad.

Just got back from the dealer with "quote" Kawasaki Filter.

I'm running Repsol 10w40 is that OK?

Thanks for your help.

Any other opinions are helpful.

 

[knightslugger]

There was someone who had a catastrophic engine failure and when the dealership cup open the oil filter, all they found was a roll. no filter media at all. it all disintegrated. guess what the brand was.

yup, ya'll guessed it... FRAM.

Bosch Premium or Pureolator PureONE filters for me ONLY (and in that order).

 

[maverick9611]

knight you forgot amsoil's new full synthetic filter part #EaOM103. plus a filter mag. i know peeps think its worthless but i had one on a drag car and they work!!!cheap insurance
plus its a once a year filter change same as amsoil's oil(no i'm not a dealer)but i used it hardcore in dragracing for 5 years and i believe in the products

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[spider_kyle]

Not only Fram, but anything you can buy at Canadian Tire (or Pep Boys or whatever in the states, yes I am Canadian) is crap. Absolutely. I am partial to a synthetic, and you want finer filter material. A fram filter, for instance, will let through way more particles of much bigger size than a higher quality filter. You can find numbers for the actual size and quantity of particles that a filter will lett pass, though it's a bit hard to find, and understand. Even the best Fram is garbage. AMSoil makes a good one, and I personally use a Purolator, Purolator Pure 1 is what you would look for. A filter is definately not something you want to go cheap on, especially since a better filter is still not a lot of money.

 

[Lucky#13]

Uh , I don't know what they sell in Canada...but you can buy Purolator , Bosch , ect. at any local auto parts store here . Also here in the states Purolator is by far cheaper than a Fram filter in cost .

 

[spider_kyle]

Well, I also have no idea what gets sold down there, I obviously pulled pep boys off a TV commercial, they may be reputable I don't know. But I do know that the Purolator Pure One Synthetic is a good filter, I'm sure they have a crap line of filter too though. It was a while ago that I researched this too, so things could very well have changed.

 

[dwengi]

My advice: Don't try to save money on things like oil and oil filter. Too much potential downside.

 

[Mulcibre]

I'd be leery of leaving a filter in for a whole year too... remember,the oil circulates through the clutch. Anybody who has changed a dry clutch knows that it releases a lot of "clutch dust". In a motorcycle wet clutch oiling system, that dust goes through the transmission, and engine. That's why more frequent oil changes are necessary, compared to a car or other dry clutch system.

 

[estrada42]

Is there a reason NOT to use the Kawasaki factory oil filter? I Recently changed the oil on my 92 ex500 and used Castrol ActEVO Synthetic 10w-40 and a factory filter. It was 13 dollars for the filter, but it seemed like a good idea to stick with factory parts for something as important as a filter.

 

[Lucky#13]

It was 13 dollars for the filter,

That would be the main reason...

 

[knightslugger]

It was 13 dollars for the filter,

That would be the main reason...

Kawasaki and Honda filters are made by the same company and the Honda filters have been regarded by many as pretty good filters. not the best of the best, but more than adequate for the task.

 

[estrada42]

It was 13 dollars for the filter,

That would be the main reason...

My local bike parts monger only carried the K&N Filter at the time, and they wanted 12 for it. I don't like K&N Filters, so I would rather go factory.

 

[MrSciTrek]

Wal-Mart has a SuperTech filter (made by Champion) that ranks high... costs about $3.
Stock up.... get them while they're cheap.

Question:
Synthetic oil costs more but lasts longer, a bit more mpg, & works especially well in temp extremes...
But, since the clutch releases crud...

what about running synthetic & changing the oil filter at 3,000 miles. Change the oil at 6,000.

??? Anybody use synthetic w/ real experience to share?

 

[knightslugger]

I've used synthetic in everything i've ever used. I'm still using the same Amsoil 10W40 in my CBR that i installed back in august.

 

[RichC10]

??? Anybody use synthetic w/ real experience to share?

I used Mobil 1 10-40 on my last oil change. With regular oil it seemed to me that the shifts got a little sticky at about 2000 miles on the change. The Mobil 1 has 2500 miles on it and still shifts smooth as silk. I thought about having the oil tested to see if its still good, but why bother? The oil and filter are so cheap, it doesn't pay to have it tested. I'll probably change it by 3000 miles anyway.

Rich

 

[knightslugger]

??? Anybody use synthetic w/ real experience to share?

I used Mobil 1 10-40 on my last oil change. With regular oil it seemed to me that the shifts got a little sticky at about 2000 miles on the change. The Mobil 1 has 2500 miles on it and still shifts smooth as silk. I thought about having the oil tested to see if its still good, but why bother? The oil and filter are so cheap, it doesn't pay to have it tested. I'll probably change it by 3000 miles anyway.

Rich

ain't that the truth. the cost for the testing costs just about as much as a full synthetic oil change anyway!

 

[MrSciTrek]

??? Anybody use synthetic w/ real experience to share?

I used Mobil 1 10-40 on my last oil change. With regular oil it seemed to me that the shifts got a little sticky at about 2000 miles on the change. The Mobil 1 has 2500 miles on it and still shifts smooth as silk. I thought about having the oil tested to see if its still good, but why bother? The oil and filter are so cheap, it doesn't pay to have it tested. I'll probably change it by 3000 miles anyway.

Rich

ain't that the truth. the cost for the testing costs just about as much as a full synthetic oil change anyway!

Scale up the possibilities. What if we find that sythetic is good for 5-7,000 miles (in a year, not longer) but only IF the filter gets changed at 2500 or 3000?

For one person, you guys are right... not a big deal.
But if dozens or hundreds of riders benefit from less maintenance time & save some money...
AND get improved shifting & wear & a few mpg
AND we have that much less oil to recycle...

then, finding out is worth it.

If you guys can tell me how/where to get samples tested for various oil sediments & wear I'll use my bike as a guinea pig. Will need help making sure it's a valid test from you engineers, racers, mechanics & such. Ideas / suggestions welcome. (Should this be a new topic?)

 

[knightslugger]

But the thing is MST, is that not everyone rides in the same fashion, the same climate, or has the same maintenance care that everyone does. what may hold true for one may not hold true for all.