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2002 ex 500
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finished the valve adjustment, carb cleaning, spark plugs, coolant flush..

but when I did the valves, I don’t think one side of the oil pipe fully clicked in. All other three had an audible click when inserted and the last one was difficult. It pressed in tight and felt fully seated. If it isn’t clicked in what issues can that cause?

I’ll take it all apart again on the weekend to double check, but I’m hoping there’s no harm in riding in meantime? Thought I’d ask.

bike starts up right away now without choke and idle is steady at 1000. Much quieter running and the valves are clacking away nicely. (Were real tight before) love this forum never would’ve attempted this stuff without the guides on here!
 

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You are more than likely fine. Did you use new O-rings? On the pipe that "didn't click" I would have removed it and put in the side that didn't click first. Then see if the side that didn't click earlier would now click.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn’t use new orings, they looked good no cracks and weren’t shrunk (though maybe there’s other things to look for)

I was really struggling to click in both sides. So I clicked one and pushed the other as hard as I could. Can you explain what these oil pipes do? I know it’s a pretty dumb question but I’m very new to this stuff. Usually just do oil changes and brakes
 

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These pipes are the final end of the oil travel. Specifically they oil the cam lobes.
A lot of members will disagree with me on this point, but for the minimal cost of the O-rings I would replace them each time I exposed them.

A note to those who may have never installed these pipes: I would describe the "click" as a click feel, not a click sound. But then again, I always have Zeppelin spinning when working on the bike, so maybe I just don't hear it. 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was planning on replacing the orings but the ones I bought weren’t small enough. Perhaps it’s not an audible click but it’s definitely obvious when it clicks in vs just pushed in.
 

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there is no "clicking" they just fit in place with a O ring and are held buy the slight flexing of the pipes that causes the nozzles to bind. just bend your pipe a bit to accomplish this.

FOG
 

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they just fit in place with a O ring and are held buy the slight flexing of the pipes that causes the nozzles to bind.
FOG
to the uninitiated this could be described as a click. the point is the pipes should hold in place unaided (before fitting the bolt) and appear to be tight. I agree with @bpe new O rings on reassembly. I never refit anything without new seals if disturbed. I have a set of multi sized metric rings I bought off Amazon not yet found one that didn't fit anything on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
to the uninitiated this could be described as a click. the point is the pipes should hold in place unaided (before fitting the bolt) and appear to be tight. I agree with @bpe new O rings on reassembly. I never refit anything without new seals if disturbed. I have a set of multi sized metric rings I bought of Amazon not yet found one that didn't fit anything on the bike.
fair point. I made sure it was seated and tight without the bolt first. I will replace orings in future but the set I bought locally didn’t have rings small enough
 

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For those of you removing the oil pipes to adjust valves, could you physically not adjust them without removal, or was it just for convenience? When I did the 500 valves I found the copper tubes barely got in the way, and certainly not enough to warrant the time and effort to remove, not to mention any possible issues with re-install.

I'd done plenty of EX250 valves, and they are a royal pain to get to (especially the exhaust valves), with no possible way of making things easier. Makes the EX500 seem like a P.O.P. in comparison.
 

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it really depends on whether some PO has bent the pipes. and what tools you use. a thin walled spanner like a box spanner can be used without removing the pipes. conventional rings are a little thick. and won't go on because of the closeness to the pipes. however that is not the whole issues as it is possible to bend the pipes just enough to get a thinner ring spanner on. so it depends on the tools. and whether the pipes have been tweaked.
I made my own adjustment tool (I like making special tools to make a job simpler) by cutting down a box spanner to 50mm (2in) and welding a flat handle on it. and a screwdriver to turn the screw. easy to use and no pipe removal.
 

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I have a set of 1/4" tall sockets that I use for fiddly jobs like this. Mandatory the for the 250 valve adjustment, and they make the 500 valve adjustment a snap.
 
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