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A proper service manual is a MUST HAVE! whether factory, Haynes, Clymer...anyone better than nothing!
One Cylinder won't fire.
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9 Posts
Thank you very much! I appreciate all the help I've received so far, means a lot considering I'm pretty clueless as far as working on these bikes
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15,264 Posts
Again, please. I urge members to both read and adhere to longstanding rules here. Mail it, fax it, buy it.....but don't POST IT!
Taken right outta forum rules.
3. No posting of copyrighted material
Posting of copyrighted material not only hurts the publisher of said material, but can mean bad things for us. It will not be tolerated at all.
Taken right outta forum rules.
3. No posting of copyrighted material
Posting of copyrighted material not only hurts the publisher of said material, but can mean bad things for us. It will not be tolerated at all.
My bad.
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15,264 Posts
not the end of the world, we go on.
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2,512 Posts
I find Haynes to be a decent manual. Since this thing is ancient, and has been used, abused, mistreated, thrashed, crashed and probably left abandoned outside lying on its side, it is time for a complete go-over. You will learn much and have a safe and decent running bike when all is done. Your greatest investment will be in elbow grease. Your greatest return on that investiment will be knowledge more than just a running bike. All wiring connectors, fuses etc. should be checked and cleaned. Pipe clearners with alcohol or brake cleanerwill clean the female connectors. And, they are a weak point. Look at them and see that a pich to tighten them up wiull help. The carbs are undoubtedly clogged up and the tank may be full of rust.
It is natural to want it running, but even if you are coasting, you need to stop. Think about the front brake. Do a caliper service. Change fork oil. Lube/adjust steering stem bearings. Tires may be older than you are, and do not improve with age. Wine and some women do that. Rear brake needs only some lining left on the shoes and maybe a quick sanding of glaze (with a flat but flexible sanding block) on both shoes and drum. That done, you can move onto the engine.
Oh, and that "new" battery? It may be new but it needs a full charge. That done?
It is natural to want it running, but even if you are coasting, you need to stop. Think about the front brake. Do a caliper service. Change fork oil. Lube/adjust steering stem bearings. Tires may be older than you are, and do not improve with age. Wine and some women do that. Rear brake needs only some lining left on the shoes and maybe a quick sanding of glaze (with a flat but flexible sanding block) on both shoes and drum. That done, you can move onto the engine.
Oh, and that "new" battery? It may be new but it needs a full charge. That done?
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14 Posts
Agree with most of the analysis so far in that it seems primary electrical, secondarily possibly carb/fuel. Repair the wiring, clean all ground connections/battery connections. And like previously owner said, now you know there were some shenanigans with this bike, so you're best off to take it down and inspect/clean/repair as much as possible before riding. It's well worth it, you'll track it down.
I believe you said you swapped the plugs, but also try swapping the coils side to side and see if the issue persists/stays on same side. if it follows the coil, then you've got a coil issue/maybe weak voltage. You said it runs on either cylinder when you change configuration; Does it seem to run well on either cylinder? If it runs well on either right or left when you change coil connections, then that should tell you its not a mechanical issue. You should have good compression/fuel at that point, and it's most certainly electrical (bad coil, wiring issue, etc). If however one cylinder still runs poorly (even though it does run), check compression, go through carbs, etc. Try to narrow down a bit if it's electrical or mechanical.
I believe you said you swapped the plugs, but also try swapping the coils side to side and see if the issue persists/stays on same side. if it follows the coil, then you've got a coil issue/maybe weak voltage. You said it runs on either cylinder when you change configuration; Does it seem to run well on either cylinder? If it runs well on either right or left when you change coil connections, then that should tell you its not a mechanical issue. You should have good compression/fuel at that point, and it's most certainly electrical (bad coil, wiring issue, etc). If however one cylinder still runs poorly (even though it does run), check compression, go through carbs, etc. Try to narrow down a bit if it's electrical or mechanical.
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