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Discussion Starter #1
Of course, that means I have questions before I even begin..
So I bought all my goodies - pads, fluid, etc. And read the Clymer, the Ninja250 article, and FOG's caliper service article.
Already I have questions. First of all - do you have to drain all the brake fluid or not? Clymer says to remove the caliper, first drain all the fluid. But it says when replacing pads to only remove some. Um - don't you have to remove caliper to replace pads?
And FOG's article - I mean, once you disconnect the brake fluid line, won't it all spill out anyway?

No doubt the first of many questions...
 

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You don't have to disconnect the caliper. The rear is a much simpler job than the front. You need to remove the caliper from the disc. you can un bolt the caliper from it's bracket or remove the wheel and tha bracket and caliper fall off with it.

You pays yer money and yer take yer choice.
FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #3
But if I want to do the "complete caliper service" that you recommend, I DO have to disconnect it. In which case, won't the fluid run out when I disconnect brake line?
 

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Yes

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh my gosh, I've got them apart!
I can tell already I'm going to have 2 questions on reassembly-
1) I can't see a logical orientation of the pad spring, and it sorta popped out so I don't remember how it was...
2) That banjo bolt that connects the brake line - how will I know if the little hole is aligned so the the brake fluid will flow back in?

But the immediate questions are these:
1) Do I take out the "insulator" from the piston? Everything seems quite clean already except around there, and there is a gritty feel when the insulator spins within the piston. If so, how do I safely disassemble it?
2) Do I clean the caliper with brake cleaner? What about the holder/pins?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, so the insulator was just stuck from the grit and "suction" from the lube or whatever is in there. What's good to clean it with? Brake fluid? Do I use the silicone brake lube stuff when I put it back in?

What's the purpose of having the insulator in the piston, anyway? Why isn't the piston just one solid piece?
 

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for the banjo bolt not sure how it works but they always work regardless of trying to match them up, all the brake jobs Ive done screwing it back on and it still functions. brake cleaner will work to clean, and the pad grease is recommended even though I never understood why you put a lubricant on brakes.
 

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i think that the inside of the banjo is indented ever so slightly and it fills up around the other bolt. just make sure the washers dont leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, someone's got to enlighten me about the brake pad spring. If it goes like this (pics below) I can't seem to make the pad fit. If you look at pic 002, the pad won't fit within the caliper, because the two vertical portions of the spring (one on left one on right) that run along the inside edge of holder take up too much space. So either my spring is bent, there's something I'm not getting, or I've got the orientation wrong (that's the best I could figure out looking at the exploded parts diagram). Actually, I think I probably knocked it out of place during the "operaflute removes her rear wheel" fiasco, and that's why the pads wore sooo unevenly.

I'd rather mess around with this now, while the stuff is still dirty, rather than play with it while trying to keep it clean, and not touch the new pads.

Incidentally, Clymer says something about clips on the holder, and shows a picture of a holder that doesn't quite look like mine. We don't have those, do we? They don't show up on the Kawi diagram. I've noticed in the past that the Clymer isn't completely accurate...

Thanks!

[attachment deleted by admin]
 

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yeah the clymer manual does show a different caliper holder than the one you've got. but in the exploded parts diagram on the next page, you can see where that thing goes.

according to step 10 on that page though, it says "Install a new anti-rattle spring into the caliper."

other than that, im not really sure. i have a drum brake on the back. sorry i cant help more :(
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, it says new banjo bolt washers too. I guess that means a trip to the store. Sigh - I have SO much hate for the car. Might as well bring the caliper along and ask how the spring fits in.

Looking ahead, am I correct in that I won't be able to use FOG's bleeding method on the rear? I mean, I don't see how to hold the end of the brake line above the MC with it being bracketed down, and I don't see an easy way to get it out of the bracket.
So that means bleed the regular way, no? Eek - I'm afraid I won't get that right!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Egads - a new spring is nowhere to be had in town. Any other votes on the spring? FOG's instructions don't say it must be replaced...
Can anyone else enlighten me on it's orientation?
 

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did you take it with you to ask them?

im not positive, but i think that the long part of it that sticks out horizontally is supposed to go on top of the pads.

it looks like, in your second picture that it could possibly fit in at the open top of the holder?

also, re-reading what i wrote earlier, step 10 says install the spring IN THE CALIPER, not in the holder...

it could possibly go up inside the caliper.

i would just disregard step 5, as the picture is obviously not the same part that you have... chalk that up to clymer error i guess lol.

again, i have a drum brake, so thiis is basically conjecture on my part lol

good luck!
 

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I'm sorry but I don't have a disc caliper handy to help you , but really, it's a anti rattle spring. that means all it dose is keep the pads from rattling. it not even necessary. How many ways could it possiably fit? The banjo washers can be re used if you flatten them on an oil stone or 400 paper.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I was a bit misled by the exploded view diagram and was trying to fit it in the holder. It goes in the caliper itself. I think I've got it... (pic below)

Of course, if I'm wrong, anyone, feel free to pipe up!



[attachment deleted by admin]
 

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I the spring load going to push on the pad to keep it from rattling?

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It seems that it will. I can already tell this is going to be annoying putting it back on - knocking the outer pad out of place a million times before I get it right...

FOG said:
I the spring load going to push on the pad to keep it from rattling?


The banjo washers can be re used if you flatten them on an oil stone or 400 paper.
You mean lightly sand them, not squeeze them so they are not bowed at all, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So FOG, can I do that method of refilling/bleeding the system you explain in your front caliper article on the rear? Is there an easy way to get the brake line out of its bracket to hold the end above the MC? Or am I better off doing the traditional bleed?
Many thanks!
 

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Try it with the caliper where it is , you won't hurt anything. The Idea is to get any air to rise to a point where it will be forced back up the line to the MC.

The bleeding of any brake system is aimed at just that. If you think about where air could be entrapted you'll figure it out.

If you force fluid into the bleeder nipple on the caliper till it flows up to the MC you acompolish the same thing. Most people don't have the means to do that.


FOG
 
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