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Hi there,

I want to put frame sliders on my 1990 Ninja EX500.
This one is 16 dollars. They are called Galindo Bar End sliders.
Im having a hard time finding frame sliders for the EX500 on line, and I came across this one.

http://www.targa-acc.com/cgi-bin/products.cgi?name=upc_code&format=3&value=SB-0090-01

Has anyone purchased these before and give me their opinion on the quality?

Is there any other type of frame sliders people would recommend made for the Ninja 500?
Any other possible online links would be helpful or even a product name so that I could search for it using google.

Thanks in advance,

- Lord U
 

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I have said many times on other forums, that frame sliders won't protect the body work from all damage. Some will even exaggerate it or cause worse conditions in a crash. (IE: catching and turning a easy slide into a airborne flip). The bar ends shown or homemade at least 2" long will protect the control levers , combined with a set of ridged foot pegs (no folding) like Woodcraft Rearsets. will keep all the bikes vitals in working order so you can at least get home. (if you body ain't broke too bad).

FOG
 

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Hey I'm gonna have to agree with FOG on this one. a stiff set of pegs and bigger bar ends will defeintly be better than putting on frame sliders as I've low-sided my bike during after being tapped by a truck. My extra large bar ends and pegs saved the body better than any frame slider would have. I just had some minor scratches on my clutch lever and exhaust cans.

invest in the bar ends which will help reduce vibrations and solid foot pegs.

Cheers,

- Andrew -
 

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Tam905 said:
Hey I'm gonna have to agree with FOG on this one. a stiff set of pegs and bigger bar ends will defeintly be better than putting on frame sliders as I've low-sided my bike during after being tapped by a truck. My extra large bar ends and pegs saved the body better than any frame slider would have. I just had some minor scratches on my clutch lever and exhaust cans.

invest in the bar ends which will help reduce vibrations and solid foot pegs.
Cheers, - Andrew -
Ok, suppose someone wanted to fabricate his own solid foot pegs.
Any ideas?

Are the metal finger-things that attach to the foot pegs supposed to tell you when the bike is reaching it's maximum lean-without-grind angle?
Is there any reason why a conservative rider shouldn't just remove them?
 

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Yes Yes! I have the HVMP bar ends they're awesome, they're a little expensive but cheeper than a set of frame sliders. Definetly worth the money. I've used them this season and they really do reduce the vibrations a lot. pair that with a set of gel grips and the bike is real nice on long rides :D

my vote goes to the HVMP ends!

- Andrew -
 

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Ok, I wondered if there's a denser metal than stainless steel to use as bar ends. A denser metal would allow the same mass in a smaller space, or would be even more mass in the same amount of space.

As far as steel goes, apparently some stainless alloys are the most dense at 8+ g/cm3.
According to: http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2004/KarenSutherland.shtml

Using a different unit kg/m3, kilograms per cubic meter (kg = 2.2 pounds, m3 = 35.3 cubic feet), here are densities of other metals and alloys.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metal-alloys-densities-d_50.html

Of the items listed there, platinum would be the densest. Cool: Platinum bar ends!
WOnder what they would cost?
http://www.kitco.com/charts/liveplatinum.html
That looks like about $1200 per ounce.

Since the advertised bar ends are
Heavy weight – 14.2 ounces... that's just $17,040 for platinum (+ machining cost)
Extra Heavy weight - 17.9 ounces... $21,480.

Now, that may sound a tad pricey, but remember... they will be only 1/3 the volume!
Still, since platinum is really malleable & ductile-- & so likely would not do very well in a crash-- then perhaps a better choice would be depleted uranium.

Anyone here in the military?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depleted_uranium

(yes... this is intended as humor.) ;)
 

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Ridged Foot Peg options

Other than going with Woodcraft rearsets, which don't look like a direct replacement (?), are there any companies that do make a direct ridged footpeg that you just change out with the original? And why do the OEM's fold in anyway? Thank you.
 

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Greetings Mr. SciTrek

The"finger-things" on the the ends of the foot-pegs can be given the heave-ho if you wish. It cleans up the look of the bike and look at the weight reduction! :D

From what I have gleaned from other riders, the bottom cowl or chin fairing is the first thing to grind when leaning aggressively.
 

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i'm not sure i posted this in the right topic, BUT:

i have spent this whole day in making frame sliders for my ex500 -92.
now they are almost complete i will only paint them tomorrow with base and the day after with normal paint.
then install(5min job). I thought that you guys would like to see pics of the whole process / and get some idea of
making your own (relatively cheap) frame sliders :)
how does that sound :D?
 

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illusion said:
i'm not sure i posted this in the right topic, BUT:

i have spent this whole day in making frame sliders for my ex500 -92.
now they are almost complete i will only paint them tomorrow with base and the day after with normal paint, then install(5min job). I thought that you guys would like to see pics of the whole process / and get some idea of making your own (relatively cheap) frame sliders :)
how does that sound :D?
I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures. It would be cool if you could sketch out the actual measurements & sizes of the items used. A local motorcycle shop had slider kits on clearance for $25.
I'll be happy to see your work.
 

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Bump...

I'm really curious about that finger thing on the pegs Mr. sci brought up... What the heck are those things!
 

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They are "feelers", meant to warn you that your lean angle is close to maximum. As I said earlier in the thread, your lower cowl will grind first and you can remove them for all the good they do.
 
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